I also have a guy with pretty specialized equipment. He is NOT cheap but when he cleans our carpet it is never very wet and it is SOOO soft. It lifts pile up like new. It sounds like yours may have been left too wet. I would call in someone new to do it again with better equipment and hopefully they can fix it. I've had this discussion with a few friends. Some just can't pay the higher price and hire some guy with a cleaning wand. The jobs have been OK but definitely not the same. The friends who have taken my advice and gone with the more expensive guy with the nice equipment have all been very impressed. I would do more research next time and find someone with good quality equipment. My guy uses a Vortex machine, maybe look for someone in your area that uses it (very powerful suction). See attached link to read more about his equipment. Even his cleaning "head" is not a regular suction wand - it is this big round thing that turns with several brushes and heads - makes the pile look like new. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Vortex system

I second weedmeister's suggestions and clarify that the advantage of running, say, a 700 CFM hood on a low setting, (say 400 CFM draw) is that it will be noticeably quieter than a 400CFM hood at full power. I've had 36" a Zephyr Cyclone hood for ten years, but I'm not sure I would recommend it to everybody, especially if you are building new. It is rated at 600 CFM but it has a flat base and is only about 20-inches deep (front to back). I got it because of the CFM rating and because it is only 5-inches tall. The height was important in my situation because I needed a short height to fit over my stove and under my cabinets in my small, old-house kitchen. There are many range hoods now that have a similar flat-bottom design which does not collect steam and vapors the way a deeper hood will. If you are building new, consider designing the cabinets to allow a deeper hood over the stove. My Zephyr keeps up only by running on high or very high settings. Those are never quiet. I will say that the Zephyr has done a very good job of separating grease from vapors. It does such a good job of separating grease from vapors that, When I re-did the over-the-stove cabinets and relocated the vent ducting this last winter, there was very little grease to clean out of the ducting. If I were building new, where I was not constrained by existing layouts and tiny kitchens in old houses, I would look pretty seriously at the Kobe line that Weed suggested. Also, if you are a member of Costco, you might want to look at the Ancona hoods sold there. I've heard good things about them although I have no first hand experience. The great thing about Costco purchases is that they have a no-questions asked return policy so you can take it back if you do not like it. You could then swap in a Kobe or something else that you liked. On the side issue of coil burners, my personal take is that coil burners are fine. Mature technology. Plain. Simple. Durable. Reliable. Reasonably efficient. Rather inexpensive. Well suited to constant heat applications such as cooking with cast iron and doing things like making stocks and running canning kettles. But, if the only reason that you are sticking with a coil-burner is to avoid surface marring caused by cast-iron pans, there are a variety of reasons you might want to consider an induction range. To begin with, as others have pointed out, cast iron is not a problem on the smooth surface of an induction cooktop. (Viking, the maker of the most expensive residential induction range you buy in the US at this time, has published a manual for the stove which forbids the use of cast iron on its induction stove because it might somehow damage the stove by retaining heat. Viking stands alone in that arrant nonsense. Every other stove maker says cast iron is fine on induction.) Even if you have the old Lodge pans with the rough casting ring on the bottom, they'll work fine. If scratching worries you, lay down a paper towel or piece of parchment paper (some people even use silicon baking mats). As long as your pan heat stays below 450 F, they'll be fine. If you are going over that heat level, you won't be shuffling that heavy cast iron pan around and doing saute-flips, anyway. Other induction stove extras include greater power from the burnerss and better low heat functioning, besides the and very quick adjustability that everybody mentions above. Adjustibility does not apply to heavy cast iron, of coruse. (We like cast iron because it is so stable which more or less makes it the anthesis of adjustable). Induction can be pretty amazing with other kinds of magnetic cookware. Consider also that induction stoves can give you substantially more heat and more even heat than a coil burner and that may or may not be useful to you. AFAIK, the biggest coil burners are 8-inchers rated at 2500 KwH (figuring 70% to 75% efficiency in delivering that energy to the pan) while big induction burners can be 11" in diameter and run 3400 KwH of heat (at 84% efficiency). An example of what this means in practical terms is that you can bring a large canning kettle to boil much faster on induction than on a coil burner. It also means that you can simmer that large kettle of apple butter with heat evenly across the bottom or slowly cook down stock in a large pot without fear of bring the center. Also consider the ovens in the stoves. AFAIK, there is only one coil burner model (a Kenmore) which has a convection fan. The others are basic electric ovens. With induction stoves you get convection functions including third element convection heating (e so-called Eurpoean or "true" convection.) Some poeple really like convection and others are indifferent to it. So, maybe these things will matter to you and maybe they will not.

I have a Wolf CSO and, if I had to do it over again, I would give Miele a much closer look than I did the first time around. According to the Yale appliance blog, Miele makes 97% of their parts in-house, and it's the least-serviced brand they have. The Wolf CSO, on the other hand, is a re-branded V-Zug (a European brand) oven. If you're thinking of getting the Wolf in the "Professional" trim (as shown in your mockup), be aware that the hinges are not strong enough to support the weight of the bar on the door. Wolf advises that, after use, you leave the door partially open in the "at rest" position to let the oven cool down. If you try this, the door will fall completely open with a fair amount of force. The problem, according to a Wolf repairman, is that the bar adds too much weight to the door. Wolf doesn't consider this to be a defect though, as you can fiddle with the door and find a spot where it will stay partially open. The Miele unit is plumbed, while Wolf has a removable water container. It isn't hard to refill the Wolf container, but my oven often says it needs to be refilled once it gets down below about 1/2 full. The oven won't give you this error message though, unless the oven is running in steam mode. When this happens on my oven, it won't even recognize that I've refilled the water, and I have to shut the oven off completely (once I even had to flip the breaker) to get the oven to recognize that it has water. It's annoying at best, and can create problems if you need to get steam into the oven early in the cooking process (like when you're baking a loaf of bread). Of course I can't replicate this problem in front of a repairperson, so the problem hasn't been fixed. It's interesting that a rep at the local Wolf design center told me that Wolf had studied the CSO market extensively and decided not to make a plumbed model, because 90% of the problems encountered are with the plumbing. Aside from that statement being complete BS, 90% of the problems I have with my Wolf are with the water tray. Wolf tells you to start cooking all of your dishes in a cold oven, as it heats up quickly. I think the real reason they tell you this, is because the oven won't produce steam once the temperature gets over 212 degrees. So if you're an experienced bread baker and want to bake bread in a preheated oven while injecting steam, be aware that you can't do this on a Wolf. I started another post on this subject in the Appliance Forum, and my understanding is that the Miele CSO will inject steam into a preheated oven. This isn't to say that you can't make a decent loaf of bread in the Wolf, but it won't give you the amount of control that an experienced baker typically wants. Another issue is that, if you are cooking something with steam at a temperature over 212 and open the door to check on your dish (like when you're reheating something), most of the steam will come out and the oven won't put new steam in. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, as my experience is that too much steam can make a dish too soggy. Always be careful to protect your hands when opening an oven with steam, as you can get burned very easily. Aside from the steam, a big advantage to having a CSO is that it heats up very quickly and is much more convenient than a full-size oven when making a quick meal. In this respect, the lack of a broiler on the Wolf is a definite disadvantage. Wolf has a "Convection Humid" mode for their oven, which I find is nice for cooking dishes like lasagna and macaroni & cheese. Many newer traditional ovens now vent any steam because of their sensitive electronics, so I find it convenient to have this cooking mode available. I don't know whether Miele has this cooking mode as well, but I assume they do. When used as a traditional oven, the Wolf CSO heats up air and blows it into the oven cavity, unlike a traditional convection oven which heats up the oven cavity and then redistributes the air. This seemed a bit weird to me at first, as the oven cavity is completely cool almost immediately after cooking, even though the heating element (wherever it is) is hot and needs time to cool off. When cooking something that sticks up in front of the convection fan (like a roast or a loaf of bread), I generally turn it around half way through, to avoid overcooking one side. Aside from this, the Wolf seems to take a bit longer to cook most dishes than a traditional oven (though this is more than offset by the quicker time to heat up). Wolf has a number of pre-programmed cooking modes under their "Gourmet" and "Recipe" menus. They'll send you a book with recipes for one or two of these menus, but other than that, you're on your own in terms of figuring out what they do and how to use them. For example, there's a pre-programmed Slow Roast mode, which does a very nice job of roasting a beef tenderloin and having it ready to eat (including resting time) exactly when you want it. There are several other types of meat that can be cooked in this way, but what if I want to make a Strip Roast (which isn't one of the choices)? Do I just program it for Top Round and hope it comes out the same? There's all kinds of pre-programmed modes (e.g. soufflés or beef stroganoff), but absolutely no information on what the oven does in these modes. Maybe it's me, but I want to know what the oven is going to do before I just let its computer take over. In many cases, there's a small pool of water in the bottom of the Wolf after using one of the steam modes. Wiping this up with a paper towel is generally enough to keep the bottom clean. The sides and back are a lot more difficult to clean though. Wolf says to run the oven with steam at a certain temperature for a certain length of time, and then everything should wipe off. This hasn't been the case with my oven, which has lots of little brown spots on the back and sides, that I can't seem to get off. The Wolf CSO comes with one solid and one perforated pan that fit into the slots on the side of the oven. A rep at my local design center told me to be sure to buy some "half size" pans as well, so I could steam 2 different dishes at once. The clear impression was that these "half-size" pans take up the whole width of the oven and fit into the racks as well. After spending $250 to buy 2 of the "half-size" perforated pans, I discovered that they're nothing more than small perforated pans that you could buy in any restaurant supply store for $10 or $15 apiece. They aren't the full width of the oven, and certainly don't fit into the side slots. Of course, they won't take the pans back, because I had already opened them at this point. I get the feeling that Wolf spends more money on promoting their brand, while Miele spends more on engineering. Wolf has a number of design centers around the country where smartly dressed people will wax enthusiastic about their products. They also hold cooking demonstrations where chefs will show you how to prepare dishes to impress your guests. Overall, my impression is that Miele gives you a lot more control over the cooking process than Wolf. That's not to say that the Wolf doesn't do its job well, but it often doesn't tell you what it's doing, and you have to come up with own methods if you want to tweak the process. It reminds me a bit of a story I read once about the difference between Boeing and Airbus. Both planes have lots of computerized controls, that do most of the work of flying. The difference is that Boeing always gives ultimate control to the pilot, while Airbus leaves that control with the computer. So in certain situations Airbus pilots need to learn how to trick the computer into doing what they want the plane to do. From what I've seen and read, Wolf is more of an Airbus, and Miele is more of a Boeing.

Thank you for your comments, I appreciate each one. I called Zerorez and talked to the CSR about my concerns with prior service. Notably, there was an offer with my last job to clean 100 square feet of tile that the technician forgot to do before he packed up and presented the bill, so the CSR added that freebie to my order. She mentioned that the crew that came out in June no longer worked for the company and agreed to make note of my request for an experienced cleaner. They'll be here on Monday. Looking forward to clean carpets and the way my house (doesn't) smell like my dog when the job is done. I have to remember to give Captain a bath on Sunday. Thanks again!