Actually that's not my experience. Depending on the hardness and ph of your water (distilled is best), it may not be wise to melt the wax in hot water and let it float and cool and solidify. Bees wax melts in the 150° range. I melt my wax in a double boiler arrangement (never melt wax directly over a burner, and then pour it into a hot bow, taller is better than narrow. It can also have some pure water, very hot in the bowl all ready. You should pour it through a metal strainer (I don't use nylon for this, although I do for honey. I think the hot wax could do a number on nylon) to catch the bees and large junk in the wax. When it cools without stirring, the water will be on the bottom, then the junk, then the pure wax on the top. The wax shrinks slightly when it solidifies so it's easy to remove. On the bottom of the wax, next to the water, is the junk, a thin layer that can be cut away. And that's why a tall narrow container for cooling is better. The junk is then limited to the narrower area of the diameter. I've even used 1" cheapie flexible pvc pipe with a removable cap on one end, in lengths about 12"-16" long. It makes a long TALL tube and it's easy to remove the bottom 1/4" that has the impurities in it.

There is a product that my sister uses to remove wax, that you can get from a beauty supply place. She is an aesthetician and recommended it when I made a really dumb move - blowing out a candle with a huge pool of melted was. OK, so you know where the melted wax ended up - ON EVERYTING! I have a painted, white dining room table and that stuff really helped. It didn't ruin the finish either. Also, when my sister moved, her wax machine, full of melted wax, spilled onto everything - walls, floors, papers, furniture; you get the idea. She was able to use that stuff to remove the wax without any problems from everything but the papers. Let me go find the bottle to check the name - OK, it's Sure Clean by GiGi. I've used it for "melted plastic", and it worked for me. Also, I just called my very smart ex-husband to see what he thought. We had tree sap all over my car and he used alcohol to remove it. It didn't ruin the clearcoat finish. He said to tell you to use a hair dryer to warm up the plastic and then use rubbing alcohol to remove it. He said anything like that should work - just don't use any acid based product. I asked the dumb question on whether the alcohol would ruin the finish on your pan. The response - No, that's why they call it stainless steel!! Is he that smart, or me that dumb - OMG!! Anyway, hope you get results from at least one of all of our great suggestions. I've done the same thing many times with the plastic bags that bread comes in. LOL. gng Good luck - hope it helps.

Wonder if the technique of getting wax off a tablecloth with an iron would work on rock? Put a few folds of really absorbant paper toweling or old rag towel over the wax and run over it gently with a hot iron. The towel should absorb the melted wax residue without spreading it more and some/most of the color stain should come up with it. Any stain left could probably be treated with a mild cleanser.

My suggestions may not be applicable to your situation. I have dark oak flooring from the 1970's that was supposedly factory-finished except that the finish wasn't very good. So I wax. Try to remove the old wax with an oil-based solvent such as mineral spirits(? I forget what I used) or lacquer thinner. These are pretty bad, so make sure you have adequate ventilation. Your hardware store may have other suggestions. Just get on the floor with the solvent, paper towels, gloves, gentle scrub brush, and trash can. It's easier to control the amount of solvent and cleaning if you clean the floor manually. The paper towels indicate how much junk is left on the floor. Being close to the floor gives you a better idea of how much soil/sand/debris is left. I used to use Johnson's paste wax, which was fine, except that the flooring has a very "rustic" texture which made removing excess wax impossible. The build-up eventually turned yellow. So now I use Bruce "liquid wax with cleaner". It doesn't last as long as paste wax, but the process doesn't take as long. Again, I just get down on the floors, pour and wipe to spread, wait a few minutes, and buff by hand with old terrycloth towels or old socks. I used to use a buffer, but it got too hard to handle as I got older. Plus, the areas next to the wall had to be buffed by hand anyway. Just put yourself in a Zen state. Wax as needed. You can spot wax the areas with heavy traffic. Just don't wax too frequently. Once a year may be enough. HTH