sarjenco60, did the engine ACTUALLY start up, run, and then stop running???? Or did it just refuse to spin when you tried the starter?? If the engine DID NOT really start up......your engine is not seized, it is "hydro-locked" from engine oil migrating to the combustion chamber (space above piston and below cylinder head), or from gasoline from the carburetor filling the combustion chamber while you had the machine on its side. To remedy this, remove the spark plug (or plugs) and spin the engine with the starter for just a few turns. Because gasoline might be expelled from the spark plug hole, you need to take precautions to prevent the spark plug cable from emitting a spark. My preferred method of "killing" the spark is to put the spark plug back into the cable "boot" and wrap a water moistened paper towel around the plug (do this with both plugs if 2 cylinder engine) and lay the towel wrapped plug on a surface as far away from the spark plug hole as you can get it. After the engine spins for a few turns (and expels the liquid from the cylinder), allow the plugs to dry and re-install them. As jdowner pointed out, you really should have created a new thread to ask for help. Please do create a new thread for any future issues you need help with.

I have an XL Glider, and I love it too. My husband found out why it squeaks. Because they come preassembled, they are painted and assembled very quickly. When the paint comes off after using and folding/storing it, the metal rubs a bit on the joint that crosses. He put a thin plastic washer in between the two poles and WaLaa! No more squeaks! (he has the allen wrenches that are required to seperate the poles, you may need to purchase them). These are the joints that the manual says to check and make sure that they are tight before using. You could lubricate the joint, I suppose, but I haven't had a squeak since. It was so annoying, I use mine every other day in the morning, I am so happy now. Jainie

My orbiter weighs 25 lbs and is a low speed (something like 350) rotational unit, unlike the square buff which is 3600 rpm. The reason I bought the orbiter was for maintenance, not refinishing, so you are very fair in your wish for me to go higher power in these steps, I have no problem with that. The VERY KEY point of the Oreck is that IT can apply MUCH more force to the floors than MY ARMS can, BUT it is small/light enough that I can schlep it around, anytime, anywhere. I would LOVE to find a way to use THIS machine on my floors, for cleaning/maintenance. I do not necessarily want a top coat on my floor. What I want is a floor that is compatible with some method to maintain GIVEN the dogs. So a waxed or buff based maintenance is one possibility since I have the oreck. The reason I bought it in the first place is if I can figure out a way to use it I can apply MUCH more cleaning force than just with my unfortunately wimpy arms, toward all those sticky dog spots. My dogs are 90 lb German Shepherds from police lines. When they go off, they apply TREMENDOUS force on my floor with their nails, unlike a 90 lb lab who trots around, nails clicking. It's not uncommon for my dogs to skid around the corner, tearing toward a window, claws extended into my wood as they spin around the corner. Quite often they are just like a looney tunes cartoon, running in place on the floor with claws extended for traction, trying to get to the door or window, etc. (They are the nightmare of you guys in the wood floor trade, I'm sure.) This floor has taken that sort of abuse since 1998 now and is still quite good looking, so I want to keep it, as it is HARD surface (but with dry spots). The wear surface layer (acrylic impregnated wood layer, that is) has NOT been a disappointment and is iron tough. The floor has been extremely dimensionally stable through at least a couple water immersion events short term. There are no raised grain or raised edges in it anywhere (that would need sanding down, for example), it is perfectly flat as the day it was installed. But this suggests to me, and your statements suggest, that a TOP COAT may not be the best idea in MY situation. Perhaps I should focus on the embedded resins and look at a buff based maintenance. The LAST thing I want to do is apply a top coat that then gets all flaky and half scratched off. This is not a statement of y'alls assessment of modern finishes bonding so much a reality based statement of the abuse this floor takes from VERY HARD, very concentrated contact with these German Shepherd toenails. This must be the reason my floor is not really scratched up after all these years, because there is no surface coat to scratch! FYI I have no issues whatsoever getting or renting the right equipment or persons to do this right. My obsessing is focused on making sure I do the right thing and using the right products (oil vs, water vs. wax based) to my floor, GIVEN my situation with the dogs and maintenance. Can you please tell me your opinion on this article, see link below: Here is a link that might be useful: article - the best commercial finish may be no finish at all

Silver hawk If you do select the CleanEffects, you need to have a thorough understanding of a homeowner's responsibility for regular maintenance/cleaning that is required for filter to operate best. Most homeowners don't and this can be problematic. I personally would recommend the Perfect Fit Media cabinet over the CleanEffects. No maintenance, no cleaning. Changeout is easy and filters last up to one year before replacement. For best operation of the XV80 furnace, make certain you get true two stage thermostat like HW VP IAQ. IMO