I have a Toro 16-38 HXL riding mower. The part that I think is broken on your mower is more than likely a spring. If you look at the top of the deck on the left side, you will see a heavy spring. There should be two of them there. The one that lifts the deck it probably broken. It should only cost a couple of bucks and is easily replaced. On my model it is called the Spring, Deck,Engagement - the part number is 88-6130. The part number might be different from yours, but you get the idea.

Thanks, the deck is all the way up so I am not sure it is that spring. It looks like when I raise the bar to engage the blade, a pulley (?) on the right side moves inward and engaes the belt/ A round wheel towards the back starts to spin but the belt does not turn....its almost like the belt is too big or something?

Raising and lowering the deck and engaging the blades are two entirely seperate operations. The spring I cited is necessary to engage the blades. However, why don't you look around your area (yellow pages) and try to find someone who repairs lawn mowers (not a dealer) and have them look at it.

Many of the decks have a move-able idler pulley in the system. This idler pulley usually has a spring pulling on the mounting arm to provide belt tension. Sometimes, even if the spring is there and is in place, the mounting arm can seize fast to the pivot pin, therefore the spring does no good.

See if you can identify the idler pulley and see if it moves freely. If not, it would need to be freed up and lubricated.

Jay63,
you said the spring that lifts the deck is probably broken...I do not think so, I see one there. Also the deck lifts...not sure what this would have to do with the blade engaging; I am probably just misunderstanding you.

Tmajor,
There is an arm that moves inward, ie pushes the belt inward when I raise the bar to engage the blade while sitting on the mower. It would seem the arm's purpose is to force the belt inward, tightening it up against the spinning pulley and forcing the belt to turn. When I lift the bar I do see this arm move inward and press against the belt. Still the belt is not grabbing against the spinning pulley. So, either the belt is now strecthed out to the point where that arm is not pressing hard enough against it for the belt to grab or there is some spring that serves some other function that has popped off....not sure where that would be but I am starting to understand this thing better anyway.

Look for another pulley, which might be the culprit. There should be one pulley for each of the blades, of course. The pulley you see moving with the deck engagement lever might be the one, which provides variable tension, if so, some portion of it should have a "spring function". Or, there could be another pulley to do this.

I will look, there is only one blade on this little huy though...its a 32" cut. I will look tonight.

You know, after 7 years, I wonder if I just shouldn't have them change the belts anyway (and spring if needed)...though the service guy said toro belts could go 10+ years.

THANKS!

Take a look at this diagram ... See if it's anything like yours. If not, put the correct serial number in and look at that diagram.

The spring in front (item #3), looks to me like the mechanism to maintain tension. From what I can tell, it keeps forward tension on the whole deck assembly, as well as the belt. The deck would have to be free to move forward and back. Maybe all you need is some oil on the portions of the deck, which allow it to side forward/back.

Here is a link that might be useful: Parts Tree Toro 12-32

will take a look. Thanks again!

UpdateÂ

I looked at the online diagram and it was similar to my tractor but I could not find any springs that could be causing the problemÂ..HOWEVERÂÂÂ.

With the engine off I engaged the blade and watched the pulley engage the belt. I brushed away a bunch of grass and noticed the entire area was greesed or greesyÂmaybe it was always that way, I never looked before. I stuck my hand in and made sure the belt was wrapped around the pulleyÂsÂit was. I manually turned the belt and the blade turned---I do not remember this happening a day or two ago. I sat on the tractor and started it then engaged the blade. Low and behold it worked! Now it was 9pm so I did go for a test drive so who knows if it will last, or slip or whatever. I am hoping to rush home and try tonight.

Any ideas why it might be working again?

Maybe, the grass was limiting tensioning.

You have seen where there is grease, look at this area and make sure it's also where it's supposed to be (meaning, between sliding, moving or turning surfaces). I would think, in seven years, it should have had some fresh grease applied to the correct areas.

T,

I'll look. We'll see if it holds up tonight; I really did not move much grass.

Well, it slipped off several times then decided to stay put. I snapped a few Digital Pics, the dealer dude said he felt the belt was just stretched and sold me a new one. Thanks All....hopefully I can get it on ..getting off the old one should not be a problem.

Engine seized lack of oil when trying to start. How do i unseize Briggs & Stratton #280000? I put a new battery and put a new blade but when I put it on its side the oil came out than I tried to start it than it seized. In New York int cost 85 dollars to pick up and 120 dollars to tune up and that does not include parts.

andre, gald to hear you worked your problem out. Keep us posted!

sarjenco60: create your own post, and dont hijack.

sarjenco60, did the engine ACTUALLY start up, run, and then stop running???? Or did it just refuse to spin when you tried the starter?? If the engine DID NOT really start up......your engine is not seized, it is "hydro-locked" from engine oil migrating to the combustion chamber (space above piston and below cylinder head), or from gasoline from the carburetor filling the combustion chamber while you had the machine on its side. To remedy this, remove the spark plug (or plugs) and spin the engine with the starter for just a few turns. Because gasoline might be expelled from the spark plug hole, you need to take precautions to prevent the spark plug cable from emitting a spark. My preferred method of "killing" the spark is to put the spark plug back into the cable "boot" and wrap a water moistened paper towel around the plug (do this with both plugs if 2 cylinder engine) and lay the towel wrapped plug on a surface as far away from the spark plug hole as you can get it. After the engine spins for a few turns (and expels the liquid from the cylinder), allow the plugs to dry and re-install them. As jdowner pointed out, you really should have created a new thread to ask for help. Please do create a new thread for any future issues you need help with.

Need information how to create my own post and not hijack this was a mistake on my part sorry!.

Have a Briggs & Stratton #280000 . New battery new blade cannot spin top of engine by hand it is locked. I now have taken oil out a spark plug,gas it is now on its side. How can I move it by hand it is locked. Originally tried to electric start and it just went click. Do I have to take the engine apart?

sarjenco60 -
To make your new thread:
At the upper part of the main web page of this forum you will see a link saying "post a message".
Log in and then click on that link. Enter your information, also entering a new title for your subject.

I have a 5-6 years old Wheel Horse Lawn Tractor (model# 71227). I started it this season for the first time last week. It ran fine for 10-15 minutes then it stopped. I turned the fly wheel as it was jammed, and it started again. it happened 2 -3 times.
Today, I started it again and it ran for 2-3 minutes and lost power. I ran it on fast speed and then I heard a loud noise inside the engine (may be), and it stopped. When I turn the fly wheel by hand, I can hear a broken metal piece inside.
Can you help me and tell me what it could be?
Do I need to replace the whole engine?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Khan