How can we clean up a kerosene spill on wood?
arleneb
15 years ago
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lucy
15 years agojoed
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Wolf integrated modules: How's the clean-up?
Comments (1)Hi Joan, Got your e-mail. I'm leaving soon so I will reply later and I'll send a couple pictures. I have no problem with spills. If I'm frying, I put towels down. We have the closed gas whereas we just put a 30" wolf gas in our other kitchen and I hate cleaning that one. This multi purpose gas is so easy to clean. I also have a 45" downdraft and the stainless is no problem. I love the microfiber clothes - just wipe with a damp one. The only problem I find is that everything gets dusty - granity is shinny so the dust really shows when the sun is out, and that has nothing to do with the appliances. So, I have lots of microfiber clothes around. To clean the induction (even with grease) I just wipe it with a soapy cloth and wipe it down with a dry cloth. If something is really bad (which has only happened when my son and his friends cook with both the induction and gas) I used baking soda or the liquid cooktop cleaner. And I love my steamer. We all are going to a Wolf dinner tomorrow night with one of their chefs. Any questions for them??? Sandy...See MoreHelp! Kerosene spill on plywood subfloor!
Comments (3)Arlene, This is not your problem! Your contractor should just replace it at no cost to you. They either spilled it filling it or it leaks! This is their problem and not yours. The one thing is, is that the vapors out gassed by any petroleum product stays at floor level and seeks the lowest level just as water does when it is pouring in your window wells. All you need is to have them hit the water heater or the funrace when it sparks when it tries the electric starter and you house will blow up. When the humidity changes in the Summer you will be able to smell it also and even if you seal the floor a few steam cleans will remove that. I assume you are putting padding beneath your carpet. This will destroy that area of padding and you will have to pay to have the padding replaced and have it re-installed. Just have it done and have your husband rip them a new one and refuse to pay them until they do as they are told. I would not mess with any of this as this is not your problem, they created it. Good Luck, Steve...See MoreFloor frustrations-how to clean up these old hardwoods?
Comments (6)Thanks for your suggestions on chemicals and warnings against drum sanding. I went shopping Monday morning for chemicals, and in the meantime Mr. Weedy made faster passes on the floor with the sander to avoid heating up and globbing the shellac or whatever was on the floor. Results: Denatured alcohol did nothing. I tried wiping with a rag, scrubbing with steel wool, flooding a small area and letting it sit, all with no results. Guess it's not shellac. I then tried lacquer thinner. Scrubbing with a rag seemed to have an effect, so I did a fairly large area. Once it dried, however, there was minimal results, and less so on the unsanded wood than sanded. I tried it in one of the bedrooms that had a single sanding pass, and quit once I started feeling a little stomach cramping. :-) Yes, I had the windows open and a fan going. Sanding that didn't seem any different from the area I didn't apply the lacquer thinner. Didn't try the mineral spirits yet. In the meantime Mr. Weedy had sanded one of the bedrooms about 18 times with 60 grit (seemed to create more dust than 20 grit), and made headway. I took an orbital sander with 40 grit to the spots left behind (slightly deeper grooves/dents) and here's where we're at: Bottom left corner is where I hand sanded. Lowe's had no oxalic acid, but we've got some in our garage 100 miles away, so we'll work on the kitchen again later. Also, in the meantime, we used a belt sander on the mosaic inlay portions to get off the lippage, machine sanded over it to even out the belt sander marks, and then chipped away with a hand sander to get the residual off. This shows what our eventual goal is, but it'll be dozens of hours if we have to hand sand off this finish. I've done some more googling and may try citrus strip or Formby's furniture restorer to remove the finish. We've also got this area that had tile over it. The thinset seems to have bleached out the wood where it touched, but even aggressive hand sanding is having a tough time evening out all the discoloration. I'm still very open to additional suggestions to attack this. And I must say that I now know the answer to the question, "why would anyone cover up hardwood floors?" Anyone who asks has never personally refinished them. :-)...See MoreOK, seriously - HOW do you clean wood (or faux wood) blinds?
Comments (45)figured I would bring this post back to life since I am now in need of cleaning my faux wooden blinds lol! in response to the last persons post re: using Windex, do not use Windex wipes. not sure about the spray but i happen to have a pack of windex wipes next to me and it says not for use on any wood type surfaces. pledge makes good wipes for that but you would prob need a few packages if your blinds were reallyyy dirty. anyway i am going to try dawn soap with warm water since mine are filthy! i had a small fire me in my room last summer and the insurance company had someone come in to clean the walls, blinds Etc and only bc i had to take my bounds down to fix a broken tilt cord, i just now noticed how horribly they "cleaned" them. (see picture reference) so ill post the before pictures now and after pictures once im done. in the pics im attaching now show how bad the back side of the blinds were that dont face towards me vs the 3rdnpic which is what i usually have them set to..ugh! at least 8 only have 1 side to really scrub at vs dusting the other cleaner side lol!...See Moredavidandkasie
15 years agoarleneb
15 years agoaidan_m
15 years agojoey_2009
15 years agomepop
15 years agobrickeyee
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