Oh my! I hate to say this but your lawn guy is better at negotiating and getting out of work than he is at lawn care. Anyone who is unwilling to learn the simple (and I emphasize SIMPLE) elements and methods to his chosen profession should not be coddled. He needs to be cut loose. And if you think he does not understand you now, he will really not understand you when you try to fire him. You need to find someone who can fire him in Spanish so that he understands to never mow your lawn or touch your water again and he will never again be paid by you. Usted no puede trabajar aqu ¿entiende, señor? And he should be nodding his head. When he asks you why, the only answer that will work is to tell him you are going to do all the work yourself (Voy a hacer todo el trabajo yo mismo). If you don't tell him that he will beg and plead and promise to do exactly what you want, but you have already seen that he does not keep his word (about the seeding for example). But if you tell him you are going to do it, he should understand you want to save the money. By letting him go you have bought yourself some time to learn to do it yourself (it is embarrassingly easy) or find someone more in tune with you and your ability to communicate. Here is the combined wisdom of the lawn forum accumulated over the years. There are lots of other things to discuss, but hardly anyone disagrees with these simple principles. Water deeply and infrequently. Deeply means at least an hour in every zone, all at once. Infrequently means monthly during the cool months and no more than weekly during the hottest part of summer. If your grass looks dry before the month/week is up, water longer next time. Deep watering grows deep, drought resistant roots. Infrequent watering allows the top layer of soil to dry completely which kills off many shallow rooted weeds. Not only does this apply in Phoenix, it happens that I learned it from a Phoenix based lawn professional on this very forum many years ago. Mulch mow at the highest setting on your mower. Most grasses are the most dense when mowed tall. However, Bermuda, centipede, and bent grasses are the most dense when mowed at the lowest setting on your mower. Dense grass shades out weeds and uses less water when tall. Dense grass feeds the deep roots you're developing in 1 above. Fertilize regularly. I fertilize 5 times per year using organic fertilizer. Which fertilizer you use is much less important than numbers 1 and 2 above. Now to contradict myself, I would suggest mowing the rye short toward the end of March. Your bermuda needs all the sunlight it can get and tall ryegrass will provide too much shade. Next year see if you can get through the winter without ryegrass. Just because the neighbors do it does not make it right. Believe it or not in Iowa many people burn their grass every year - doesn't make it right. Your lawn guy broke several rules. He mowed too short at one time taking more than 1/3 of the grass down. If your bermuda was tall, it should have been brought down gradually with multiple mowings during the week. He should know how to do that but apparently not. He waters WAAAAAAAAY to frequently. That water schedule is okay for getting new seeds to sprout but as soon as they establish roots, watering needs to be cut back. And I'm going to say that seeding rye over bermuda in the winter is a rule he broke. Sure everyone does it, but it's not good for the bermuda. Oh and weed-b-gone spray is the classic way to get rid of the weeds you have and not hurt the grass. Round-Up must advertise on all the sports channels or something. I hate that stuff.

It was just ordered, so no pics yet, but here is one from the Aristokraft website. Full disclosure: I'm a KD who sells Aristokraft for ProSource, but any local company that handles the same product can help you. I'd encourage you to explore local custom cabinet makers as well. From Aristokraft From Houzz [Traditional Kitchen design[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by Indianapolis Kitchen And Bath Great Kitchens & Baths

go with Option #1. Make sure the price they are charging you for the skylights is their cost and no mark-up involoved. To double check just find out the local supplier they ordered them from. Give them the same measurements and have them price them to you. They should match and if not then go back to the contractor and advise him you will pay for them at cost with no mark-up. He won't want to be stuck with $3k worth of skylights anymore than the next guy. Then hire a good roofing contractor who also can do skylights. The warranty should not be an issue as long as the skylights are brand new and measured properly. This should all work out.

I've had both hardwood and laminate in my house and I must say that handsdown I prefer hardwood over a laminate. Yes, it does get dings and dents, but it can always be refinished. It is an investment that can outlast you if you treat them well. You certainly can't say that for carpet and not even for a laminate. That said, laminate does have it's advantages--esp. if you are on a budget. It's almost indestructable as long you don't get it wet or want to remodel because it's very difficult to piece it in later. I would also factor in the installation cost into your decision as what you really prefer and feel you can maintain for your situation as well as how cr*py your carpeting is. If you'd like to use your pennies for other things in the future, perhaps the laminate is the most suitable choice. If you anticipate either an increase in income or are pretty happy with other areas of your home, then perhaps the hardwood is the way to go with the expectation you will extend it later (and may not get such a good deal on the other wood). Most likely I'd end up choosing the laminate if on a budget and with a house that there are other improvements I'd like to do and with the associated expenses of raising four kids. It's a very practical choice, even though, decorwise, hardwood may be preferable.