Novice cook needs help picking stove please
chloenkitty
10 years ago
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chloenkitty
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Please help a novice with tulips :)
Comments (10)I'm certainly no stranger to being disagreed with, but to conclude that because two trees died and they had it must have been the freeze/thaw cycles is not logical. Consider the logic, which mirrors what you are saying: Your friend Joe is scratched by a cat while visiting another friend. Two days later he comes down with a fever, then dies. You conclude he died from cat scratch fever, never stopping to consider that it could have been any one of hundreds of other maladies. In the case of the trees you must consider other possibilities and have some means of eliminating them before you adopt a reason that is contrary to known science, which would be a considerable uphill battle. Other possibilities for the demise of the trees: Too wet Too dry The roots were exposed to killing low temps Not enough energy reserves going into winter Insect infestation Disease Others Besides - you relate an anecdote about two trees that died from unknown causes, and an experienced grower relates that >100 trees he overwinters in an unheated garage which see repeated freeze thaw cycles, not to mention the several trees (only the hardiest pines & junipers) that remain outdoors above ground all winter and that see dozens or repeated freeze/thaw cycles do NOT suffer ill effects from the freeze/thaw, so logic tells us, even w/o science, that the likelihood of my observation being the more accurate is much greater. Now - getting to the science ..... this is a copy/paste job from something I contributes to another thread a while back: Commonly, each species of plant has a general range of cold-hardiness. Within species and cultivar, cold-hardiness is genetically determined. That is to say that a plant that is propagated from cuttings or tissue culture will have the same ability to resist cold as the parent plant. Plants cannot "develop" a greater degree of cold-hardiness by repeated or prolonged exposure to cold, even after 100 years (trees). If we pick any plant at random, it may or may not be able to withstand freezing temperatures. The determining factor is the plants ability to prevent freezing of bound water. Bound water is the water inside of cells. There are actually three kinds of water to consider when we discuss "freezing". The water held in soil - When this water freezes, and it can freeze the soil mass solid, it doesn't necessarily kill the plant or tissues. Then there is free or unbound water, also called inter-cellular water. This is water that is found in plant tissues, but is outside of living cells cells. This water can also freeze solid and not kill the plant. The final type of water is bound water or intra-cellular water. If temperatures drop low enough to freeze this water, the cell/tissue/plant dies. This is the freeze damage that kills plants. Fortunately, nature has an antifreeze. Even though temperatures drop well below freezing, all plants don't die. In hardy plants, physiological changes occur as temperatures drop. The plant moves solutes (sugars, salts, starches) into cells and moves water out of cells to inter-cellular spaces in tissues. These solutes act as antifreeze, allowing water in cells to remain liquid to sometimes extremely low temperatures. The above is a description of super-cooling in plants. Some plants even take advantage of another process to withstand very low temps called intra-cellular dehydration. The roots of your trees can stay frozen for extended periods or go through multiple freeze/thaw cycles w/o damage, so long as the temperature does not fall below that required to freeze intra-cellular water. If roots remain frozen, but temperatures remain above killing lows, dessication is the primary concern. If the tree is able to take up water, but temperatures are too low for the tree to grow and make food, stored energy becomes the critical issue. Dormant and quiescent trees are still using energy from their reserves (like a drain on a battery). If those reserves are depleted before the tree can produce photosynthesizing mass, the organism dies. There are a number of factors that have some affect on the cold-hardiness of individual plants, some of which are length of exposure to seasonal cold, water availability (drought stressed plants are more cold tolerant), how recently planted/repotted, etc No one can give a definitive answer that even comes close to accurately assessing the temperature at which bound water will freeze that covers the whole species. Unbound water is of little concern & will usually freeze somewhere around 28*. Some material will be able to withstand little cold & roots could freeze/die at (actual) root temperatures as warm as 25-27*. Other plants may tolerate much colder actual root temperatures - as low as 10*. There's just no way of knowing unless you have a feeling for how cold-tolerant the genetic material the plant was derived from might be, and finding out is expensive (from the plant's perspective). ;o) Another example of this genetic variance is that trees found growing and fruiting well closer to the equator need no chill time, while other trees, derived of genetic stock from a more northerly provenance may need a period of chill to grow with optimum vitality in the subsequent growth period/cycle. It's wise to remember that root death isn't instantaneous at one particular temperature. Roots succumb to cold over a range of chill with cultural conditions affecting the process. The finest roots will die first, and the slightly thicker and more lignified roots will follow, with the last of the roots to succumb being the more perennial and thickest roots. Since any root death is a setback from an energy allocation perspective, and root regeneration takes valuable time, it's probably best to keep actual root temperatures in the 25-40* range as long as we can when the tree is resting, even though the organism as a whole could tolerate much lower temperatures. Even well established trees become very much like cuttings if all but the roots essential to keep the tree viable are lost to cold. Regeneration of roots is an expensive energy outlay and causes the trees to leaf out later than they normally would and shortens the natural growth period and reduces the potential increase in biomass for the next growth cycle and perhaps beyond. Sorry for the detour, Joann. The 5" liner will be fine. I use shallow bulb pans almost exclusively. Use a soil that drains VERY well, and try to be sure the bulbs are not touching when you plant. The volume of soil in the container is an insignificant factor. A larger volume only increases the length of time it takes for the soil to fall to the same temperature as the surrounding air. It doesn't change how low the actual soil temperature will eventually drop to, which is the critical issue. FWIW - large containers resting on the ground do gain some advantage from geothermal heat, but in the case of tulips, it wouldn't be enough to ensure their survival. Take good care. Al...See MoreApple tree novice-help please!
Comments (9)Thank you for all of your helpful advice! I have decided I am going to lop off the top three branches today but I have one more question/concern before I take the plunge. I have been reading a lot about pruning on the internet and it has been suggested that I should have between 4-8 scaffold limbs spread at least 8 inches apart with no limbs above or below each other like spokes of a wheel as Herbert also suggested. Since I have so many limbs that are close to horizontal, and they are so close together, I just can't see how I can get the limbs to be at least 8 inches apart from each other when the distance from the lowest limb to where I am going to lop off is only 14" long. The distance from the lowest limb to the ground is 33". Instead of lopping off the three branches would it work to lop off two of the tree at the top and then shorten the leader to force more scaffolds to develop along the trunk so then I can choose at least 4 scaffolds spread 8" apart? Then when I get there, lop off the leader. Al, the reason I have the tree staked is because I had to move it last year and I did not want it to blow over as the tree is in a really windy area between two houses and I planted it in a mound partly above my heavy clay soil to assist with drainage. The ties are actually ladies pantyhouse which allow the tree to flex in the wind and do not girdle the trunk. In the picture they just look tight but the tree can still sway. I plan to remove them this year as the tree has been staked for about a year now and seems to be doing well. The picture below is during the winter so you can get an idea of the branching structure. Thanks again. Carrie...See MorePick pick pick! Please vote for layout!
Comments (42)Erika, There are several different schools of thought regarding fridge placement and proximity to the range/prep area. I even once started a thread on this subject, lol If I remember correctly, it was about 50/50 - some liked the fridge to be a few short steps from prep, others liked the fridge outside their work area and didn't mind traveling a bit (I'm raising my hand here), a few were able to accomplish both? In any event, 10' is just about within NKBA guidelines. It screams out to me in looking at your inspiration pics that the CT & hood flanked by two big, beautiful windows is the way to go - give that some thought and go from there. The other things to consider is the idea of an island main sink & DW - it's not for everyone, would it work for you & your family? Are you a stacker or a rinse & load type of person? The island would be a great staging area when hosting and with the sink & DW there it impedes that usage (both functionally & aesthetically). It would give you less island prep space, but really easy clean-up. Also, your storage needs. I know you really would like a hutch on the long wall - is that at all negotiable? A 6'w hutch is going to compete visually with your window view - it's a very 'heavy' reading item, especially if you are thinking of painting it a dark color. What if you located the sink, DW & hutch on the short wall? (fridge would be to the DR end of the window wall - easy access to DR and for folks sitting at the island and I'd do 2 ovens s/s as opposed to a stack on the windowed wall, code permitting) I've rambled enough... let me know what you think....See MoreNovice gardener experiencing tomato BER - please help!
Comments (6)Here's a link to an article by the late Dr Carolyn Male, epic tomato grower and molecular biologist. For those who want the short version, here's the first paragraph. Blossom End Rot (BER) is one of the most common tomato problems seen in the early part of the season. It is a physiological condition, not a disease caused by a fungus, a bacterium or a virus. Therefore it cannot be treated. And as I'll explain below, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to prevent. Article about BER by a true expert...See Morechloenkitty
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