6' vs. 8' vent duct
jerzeygal
16 years ago
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weissman
16 years agojerzeygal
16 years agoRelated Discussions
Prestige Power Pack: Should I Convert 6" Vent to 8"?
Comments (17)Generally, larger ducting is better for lower pressure loss, ignoring differences in cost. However, for cooking effluent ducting, too large can lead to increased grease collection on the duct walls by condensation at low air velocities, while too small can lead to grease collection on the duct walls by turbulent impact at high air velocities. This seems to depend, based on experiment, on whether the ducting is warm or cold, which depends on whether or not the ducting is long and/or in a very cold attic. Short ducts warm up easily and so will long ducts if the temperature is not too low and the vent fan is started well before the steak searing begins. So, warm means that duct velocities not too below 1000 fpm are fine, but cold means that velocities should be higher -- 1500 or so. Duct velocity in feet per minute equals air flow rate (cubic feet per minute) divided by the area of the duct in square feet. Usually with variable speed ventilation, the actual air speed will be all over the place, but one should strive for best practice. kas...See MoreNeed recommendation for high CFM vent hood for 6"duct
Comments (10)Zephyr cyclones are thin, flat bottomed vents which are good for tight spaces because they are only about 5-inches tall. I have a 36" model over a 30" pro-style gas stove venting through 6" ducting. With twin fans, it has been adequate. However, the lack of height and the flat bottom constrain its effectiveness. With you having only a 30" wide hood, I would imagine the constraints would be more significant. You mentioned that you will be getting new cabinets. I suggest you check further on the Kobe hoods you mentioned. There are many favorable postings about them here. I believe the largest-capacity ones in 30" and 36" models have a a 700 CFM fan. That might well prove fine for your space for most of the time. If you can adjust the new cabinetry to allow for a 36" wide hood, it would be even better. Of course, the 36" hood would be a little bit off-center for a straight run into your existing ducting. If you can mask the ducting with cabinets or a some kind of drywall box, the angle could be concealed. If you really want a 1000CFM venting, I think Kas is right that you will probably have to go with something custom-built. One thing you might check is how freely the baffles move. There will be one immediately above the Zephyr and another one where the Ducting emerges to the outside. Over time, these things can warp and stick, which really impedes the effectiveness of the venting. With you being on the third floor, it might be hard to get a clear view of the outside vent. Maybe binoculars? RUn the hood and see how well the outer baffle opens up. Another thing to check is make-up air. No hood is going to wrk very well without sufficient air. If you open a window on the other side of your condo and put that Cyclone on high, does it vent better? If so, a make-up air system may be advisable. Depending on where you live, regulations and codes might require make-up air for any hood drawing more than 400 CFM. More to think about. This post was edited by JWVideo on Thu, Dec 13, 12 at 23:54...See MoreConfused about venting duct diameter vs. CFM
Comments (10)Capture area may be more important than CFM. Most likely you'll rarely have the oven and all burners going full blast at any one time. With a larger capture area you'll be able to operate the range hood at a slower speed for most everyday cooking, which will be quieter. Two 90 degree turns and 12 feet of ducting is not an ideal situation, so to minimize noise and air resistance, you should try to oversize the ducting and make your 90 degree turns on as large a radius as possible. I recommend Vent-A-Hood. I've been entirely pleased with the ones I have in two homes. If you go with a 600cfm model, you'll need a minimum of 8" ducting. I think you'd find that you operate it on the very lowest SensaSource setting most of the time, which is the quietest. Personally, given your venting length and turns, I might even consider a 300cfm unit but still install 8" ducting. Most likely, you'll seldom use a 600cfm hood at the highest setting, anyway. I have a 48" undercabinet 600cfm model in my kitchen over a 36" cooktop. The large capture area is very effective with little or no smoke or fumes escaping. Because I have 15" deep upper cabinets, the hood mounted out from the wall by 3" with a stainless steel filler between the wall and the back of the hood, further expanding the capture area of the range hood. I'd estimate that about 99.5% of the time, I run it at the slowest and quietest SensaSource speed....See More36 inch range hood 6 vs. 7 vs. 8 inch duct?
Comments (16)vinmarks No, in your case I was tempted to write that the VaH can make use of that size duct. I think VaH may be negligent if they don't point out that that duct size needs to be matched on the MUA side. As pointed out earlier, few in the kitchen hood sales chain want to raise the issue of make-up air and the horror it can be to retrofit into a renovation.* But lest others think that they need 12-inch duct for 1200 CFM with conventional blowers in lieu of using 10-inch for typical lengths, I wanted to point out that that would be only a modest improvement relative to getting the MUA in with low pressure loss. Pressure loss is counted from the cooktop to outside and then from outside to inside back to the cooktop. ------- *An example MERV7 high flow 4-inch deep pleated filter, 2 ft x 2 ft in area used to catch the big particles and bugs that the MUA air could pass into the house, used at 1200 CFM (300 ft/min) would have a pressure loss of 0.1 inches w.c. (See table from https://www.texairfilters.com/comparative-tests-on-pressure-drop-of-hvac-filters/ If one looks into VaH data, for example see below, 0.1 inches w.c. drops the flow rate of a dual blower (1200 CFM) hood to 1060 CFM. At 1060 CFM, the filter pressure loss is a bit less, so one really needs to plot filter loss vs flow rate against the fan curve implied by the data below to obtain the expected flow rates (excluding ducts, MUA register, and exhaust duct cap pressure losses which also need to be counted) . And for comparison, using an equation I found on the Internet at the HVAC engineering forum referencing the 2003 ASHRAE Handbook at Page 52.5 (confirmed in my copy) and adapting it with some trepidation to screening as was done at the forum, and assuming a screen of 70% openness across a 12-inch duct at 1200 CFM, the pressure loss is even higher than the pleated filter, reaching 0.7 inches, w.c. With a 15-inch screened duct, 0.1 inches w.c. at 1000 CFM could be achieved. The moral is, use a lot of screen area, or low loss filtering, or let the sparrows in....See Moreweissman
16 years agoUser
16 years agobkrex
16 years ago
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