I found this thread not only interesting, but it was also the kick in the pants that got me to do something about the repeatedly failing water intake valve/solenoid on my Miele Optima (G2420-SCI). The unit was installed new in 2008-2009. We moved into the house in early 2013, and by August that year we experienced our first failure. I do not know if the valve failed in the interval between 2009-2013. I called the local factory authorized installer, and they came out promptly. As I learned after the 2nd failure, they didn’t replace the entire hose/wire/valve, but simply cracked the case and wired-in a new valve. They charged me price of entire unit. Eighteen months later, same problem. I found some info on retrofitting the Miele valve with a GE valve, but I guess I was too timid to try it then. So, I called Miele and explained the problem. They comp’d me 33% on the new part, and this time they changed out the entire assembly. It worked fine until July ’16 when it developed same problem. This time they comp’d me the entire part and did another replacement. Every time they checked the inlet water temp it was below 130 degrees. The new part installed in August ’16 has barely lasted 8 months! We tried to use the machine over Easter weekend, and it came up with the same humming sounds of no water coming in and then popping off the “F12” fault code. After embarrassingly spending/wasting $1000 on 3 valve replacements, I finally decided to look back into the GE valve, and that’s how I got here. I was a GardenWeb member for years before Houzz, but lost touch, until I found this thread. Good x2. I followed the instructions on the YouTube video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LaqSO-Oyuw I opted to use the GE WD15X10003 valve as per the video, and not the WD15X93, mentioned earlier in this thread. As far as I could tell online, the two units are functionally comparable. The bracket and molded switch housing of the X93 are somewhat different, necessitated by the fact that the X93 is designed to be tucked into a cramped under-washer position in a GE system. It is also about $10 cheaper than the X10003, but the X10003 was available by Prime on Amazon, so I could fix it right away. I would guess that any of a number of these valves would be fine, since they would sit on the floor of the under-sink cabinet, and not require specific in-machine installation. The water inlet connection on the GE valve is a 3/8” Female iron pipe thread (FIP). My water source connector is a S/S flex hose with a 3/8” female compression fitting. To mate them I needed to pick up a 3/8” male-male brass connector with one end MIP and the other a compression thread. Connecting them was no problem, but getting them leak-free at the MIP-FIP connection was a bit of an issue. One has to hold the valve in one hand while tightening with the other and it’s hard to get a good grip on the valve portion. I used plumber’s tape first, but on the second try I used 1 wrap of plumber’s tape and a thread filler-sealer called “Hercules Block.” It’s a somewhat messy blue paste, but it did the trick. The wire connections were straightforward, just as explained in the video. I test ran it twice yesterday, and it worked normally, just as the OEM valve, and so far, there are no leaks. The time between failure and repair was only 3 days (not the typical Miele 3 weeks), and the out-of-pocket costs for valve, connector, sealer, electrical connectors was $40. (not $450+). The satisfaction of DIY, and un-shackling from the burdensome, confiscatory Miele system?....priceless. My only regret is that I should have done this after the 2nd failure...or the 3rd...slow learner, I guess.

While Aprince's advice to go to a store to listen to a few is OK, the reality is that the stores usually don't have many connected, and there is so much other noise in an appliance store you won't be able to tell much. Also, your home's ductwork will be different, which will have an effect on the noise level. BTW, I am assuming you are having ductwork. If you are doing a recirculating hood, then my following paragraph on ductwork is irrelevant to you. But if you DO have ductwork, check what is its diameter. If it is, e.g. 6" diameter, that will make your selection easier because it limits your choices, as most (but not all) 600 cfm hoods need 8" diameter duct. If you will be installing new ductwork, make sure the contractor installs an 8" duct, and don't let him tell you that 6" is OK, or try to sneak 6" by you. Stand firm on the 8". Smaller ducts increase noise. Many complaints about noisy hoods are actually related to a too-small duct. Try to get a hood with baffle filters, not mesh. Mesh filters clog fairly quickly, and thereby lose efficiency until you put them in the DW. Baffle filters get just as dirty of course, but don't lose efficiency as they get coated with grease. Restaurant hoods only use baffle filters. My final advice is to try to get the deepest hood you can. Since I am sure you will be limited to a 30" width hood over your 30" Bluestar range, try to buy a hood that is closer to 27" deep (i.e. front to back) if possible, and if within your budget. At the very least don't go shallower than 24". You will find lower-priced hoods that are less than 24" deep, which will not provide enough capture area over your range. The 27" deep ones, while better, are harder to find, and more expensive. So you have some shopping to do! Definitely do searches on this forum about hood brands. Don't forget eBay. Many people on this forum have gotten wonderful deals on hoods there.

I think the plan holligator did has some good options. If you did like somebody suggested and put openings on each side of the stove you'd also have a view into the family room when cooking. This plan keeps traffic out of the cooking zone and all your prep and cooking happens within view of the family room. In your first plan you are stuck on the other end of the island for doing any prep and cooking with the fridge and stove where you have them so not sure how much supervising you can actually do, in that area. One other option to keep prepping and fridge out of the garage walkway would be to put the stove in the corner. As wide as it is you probably would have to move the island down a bit to have aisle space. Then move the sink down closer to the opening, and keep the fridge on its current wall, but move it away from the sidewall. Ues you loose the sink right under the window, but I think you'd love that spot for prepping/cooking and looking out the window, and at least in my kitchen I spend more time prepping and cooking than I do at the sink. I'm not seeing why the Fridge has to be on that wall as it currently is on the other wall. Seems to me it should be able to go to both.

Thanks y'all. The reason for the two sinks in close proximity is that lately we've had too many cooks/kitchen workers (up to 4 adults recently and now some kids are getting interested) and I want my own sink. That does sound silly. The 5 foot aisle we currently have works pretty well for a busy kitchen, but there's always someone hogging the sink. So I want a spare sink near the action. I'd do the main sink on the range wall but don't want to be looking at a wall for EVERY activity. But on the other hand, I do want everything to be close together for efficiency. I figured we had counter space to stick in a decent (maybe 18"?) sink and if we didn't use it we could put a cutting board on it. But we'd use it sometimes. I know it seems like there's no sink on the OTHER side of the kitchen, but there actually IS no other side of the kitchen. Who are we kidding? Baking? Maybe occasionally, but not much work is actually going on over there. It's storage. :) I'd prefer to keep the fridge where it didn't block any sightlines from anywhere, just because it's a totally completely windowless kitchen. So the fridge has to go into the acute corner. I guess I want to keep small kitchen functionality with the main tasks clustered and infrequent activities relegated (baking, dining room use) to the outskirts. If I don't clean as I cook, I don't clean. So trash/sink/DW on the island like Sena suggests would work nicely. Apparently I'm trying to roughly recreate the layout of my last kitchen, but with extra storage on the ends. I tried shrinking it down to a small galley layout with large walk-in pantry to make up for lost storage but others convinced me it would negatively impact resale to have a small practical kitchen in a large addition. Any input on swapping fridge for oven, if I keep this basic layout? Currently I have an oven AND a fridge opening into a doorway and it's not that bad... And spouse wants range or dishwasher/sink on the island. I think sink works better than range there. That said...I'm thinking about this more. I really do appreciate the different perspectives! Thanks!