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Probably need to make your Ubuntu bootable flash drive then do the Custom Install of win7 which will give you the clean the disk/format 1 large partion. After the install you can use the win7 disk manager to make any other partitions you might want. Win7 wants to be the first installed partitions. Usually it will automatically make a small hidden unlettered boot partition then C drive. If by chance it gives an option for sizes on the hidden boot partition, 100mb is default but kind of small if you have problems down the road.. 200 or 300mb is the size lenovo seems to like to make them. Its pretty easy to download Lenovo drivers.. just make sure for win7.. support.lenovo.com . Be nice to have those on hand incase your Lenovo has a special something that the win7 dvd doesn't have a generic for. It might ask you to insert driver disc !! This post was edited by mikie on Wed, Dec 5, 12 at 10:37

Hi Robyn, I believe that your first photo shows the window anchored through the flange and directly into the 2x4 stud. This is not a correct window installation, as the window flange should over-lay the wall sheathing (i.e. the 1x12 slabs). Your window is simply installed too deep into the wall. There are a couple different ways to remedy the installation. The first is a more complicated approach, as it includes purchasing metal flashing that will tuck beneath and around the window and extend outward to cover the void between the window and exterior facade. This flashing may require custom fabrication, which makes it more complicated. The second is an easier approach, and includes removing the window and reinstalling it over the complete wall assembly (i.e. 2x4 stud + the two layers of 1x12 sheathing). The window flange should only sit just beneath the stucco and stucco backing-board. This information assumes that the window you've chosen has a dimension of approximately 1" from the flange to the exterior face of the window. You'll need to "furr-out" the area of 1x12 that you've removed. Don't forget to place a piece of metal flashing above the window, and some type of sill nosing at the bottom of the window. The head flashing should be metal and shaped like an "L". One leg of the "L" should tuck up behind the stucco and stucco backing-board and divert water from getting in the area on top of the window between the window frame and stucco. The sill nosing (flashing at the sill) should tie into a groove on the exterior of the window frame and divert water from entering the area below the window and between the stucco (this flashing is sometimes referred to as a sill pan). I hope this brief explanation is helpful.

I like those flowers but they do seem a bit dinky and too far apart on that wall. IOW, the opposite of busy, I guess...