Thanks I'll check out the book. I want a more authentic interior and floorplan. I really like bungalow company/christian gladu designs but to get a custom plan for him is probably out of our budget since he wants 10-15% of the construction budget. There are a couple of other people I'm looking at too. I'd love to see your build as it goes along:) Oh! I have no idea if this will be helpful to you at all but heart of oak workshop will do trim based on your plans and then you just have to get someone to install it. I want dark trim so I'm trying to find good options.

I thought the UV was the main thing that would cause degradation of the surface (don't have a problem with condensation). Andersen claims its low-e glass filters out UV: "Ordinary dual-pane glass lets 62% of UV light pass through. Our High-Performance Low-E glass cuts that down to 17% with virtually no effect on the clarity and color of the light." All but the one over the kitchen sink are double hung. I've already finished the casement window over the sink in the wipeon poly (wasn't much to do, skinny frames so I did it when I was doing jambs and stool). "Sikkens does not recommend the use of any exterior products for interior use." They apparently make an interior Cetol but I'm wondering if it's any better than the poly I already have? It's probably $25/quart like the exterior stuff, so just wanted recommendations before I went and bought it. I put 1 coat of the D&W on the garage window (same type as interior, bought it for looks since Andersen 200 series doesn't have the same grills as 400). It didn't go on as nicely as it did on the f/g door - I have brush marks. Brochure doesn't say to sand b/t coats but I think I'm going to - 320 grit? I plan on 3 coats. Even though they say don't use clear alone on high UV exposure areas, I think I can get away with it on this western window since the *interior* of the garage doesn't get much sun, so it would only be the areas on each sash where they meet, and maybe the bottom edge of the bottom sash. The interior faces don't actually get direct sun. It actually looked better than the one interior sash in the southern bay, and that's only the very bottom of the bottom sash that's looking dry anyway. I did the slider with poly last year and it looks fine (eastern), the only problem with condensation is there, and it's between the wood and the glass where I can't even get to, you can see black on the edge looking in from outside, but nothing from inside. Andersen didn't seal the wood before putting the glass in. The garage just has a screen in the upper window, so plenty of air (also full soffits) but it smells pretty bad. "You won't win the battle against the sunshine without maintenance." So what do you recommend for finish on interior sashes, and how to maintain? Thanks

Funny. Who knew the internet needed things so drawn out. Benjamin Moore Storm Not a bowel movement nor a 💩storm The reality is to the OP the colour that looks good on your home needs to be your choice, in the light and location you have. Get some samples, paint some big pages and see what works. We did not have storm as our top choice before doing the samples. There are so so many grey colours

"No one is going to look at it and think it's lacking more decorative details." Well, someone may look at it and think the grills in some of the lakeside windows and doors are missing. Do not be afraid of having grills in windows where there is a view. When I look out my windows, which have grills in them, at the park across the street I do not see the grills because I am not looking at them, I am looking past them.