I strongly believe in knowing the names of all my hostas. Among other things, I record the grower/hybridizer, the year it was first introduced, and where and when I acquired it. I will not buy from any of the various home improvement stores, where labels often get switched around. That being said, every spring I end up with a dozen or so plants without labels. Obviously, the names of the NOIDS most be among the names of the hostas I acquired, and can easily be found. Most of these orphans result from dividing known hostas, when I forget to label the new divisions. Then there are those hostas, which are either sports, OP seedlings etc. and I record them just as well. If you feel it is to early to name them, identify them at least with some letters or numbers. By fall it is time to take pictures of all my hosta beds. I make B/W printouts and walk outside with the stack of paper in my hand and enter each name directly on the print out, or you might use 1 inch dia. Avery adhesive labels to white on. Use color prints if you don't mind the expense. If you are trying to identify plants from a friend, or those that came with house, try to estimate how many years they were with the last owner. That will reduce the number of possibilities drastically.

The big question here is "when was the cancer diagnosed?" If it was found or suspected before the firing date, he may have a very stong case. However, if the cancer came about some time after his firing, then the former employer may have a good argument for their side. What I always suspect in cases of this type is: did the human resource dept. get wind of his condition before the firing date? Did someone get a peek at his medical records, for exmaple, a spy in the insurnace's billing and payment department, and passed that information along? If this did happen, it will be very difficult to prove, because who's going to incriminate their self? So far, this is all very speculative. The real question is when was the disease detected in relation to his termination as an employee? If he had the disease while yet employed, but was unaware of it, it could have impacted his job performance especially if his job required physical effort. In that case, the disease could have contributed to his poor perforamce. The second item to be explored: Was his cancer job related? Was he exposed to certain chemicals? Did he breathe fiberous dust, such as asbestos, and came doen with lung cancer? did he work as a brake repairman and was not protected from breathing the dust from brake drums? Was he mixing dangerous powders that may have contained Cadmiun-oxide, etc. Again, if he continued to be an abusive drinker after you parted company with him, that can be used as a strong argument againt him. His oponent can say that his actions likely was the trigger for cancer. It all depends on what kind of cancer he has. There are so many unknowns; The view to an outsider is very murky. It may be adviable to talk to a lawyer provided that you have all the facts available before having this chat. Its a bad idea to start legal action with half-baked data and ideas.

I think this is a great idea. I put in the zip code for the part of Ohio I used to live in and let it work. I have a couple of problems with the results. Here is the Spring results for Beavercreek, OH, zip 45430. Spring All Season Mow at height of 3" for first mow of spring as soon as the grass begins to grow Mow at height of 3.75" April April 18 - First day to seed April 11 - Summer annual weed pre-emergent herbicide application deadline. May May 10 - Last day to seed May 4 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen First: If you are going to suggest spring seeding, I would put in some more information about the hazards of that practice. Spring is a horrible time to seed new grass, and mid to late spring is worse and worse. Bluegrass is the very worst for that time of year because it takes almost a month of continual watering to germinate the grass seed. The reason spring is bad is that crabgrass and other summer annual weed seed is germinating at exactly that same time. By watering for a month you can guarantee every weed seed in the lawn will have beaten the bluegrass seed to the surface. If you could seed in early spring you might be able to miss some of the weeds, but you're still going to have a yard full of weeds in July. Secondly typical turf grasses seeded in the spring do not have time to develop roots sturdy enough to make it through a hot summer. Again, weeds in July. Second: April 11 might be too late for preemergent. Generally the guidance we have been giving here is based on Nature. The time to do preemergent is when the forsythia are blooming in your neighborhood. That may or may not be April 11 for Beavercreek. If the Beavercreek temperature averages correspond to the forsythia bloom, then this is perfect guidance, but it might be altered every year by an early or late forsythia bloom. Third: ...and please don't get discouraged by my comments - I'm trying to be helpful. In keeping with the natural approach, May 4 is likely to be too early to fertilize. The idea for the spring fert drop is to apply after the initial spring flush of new/fast grass growth. Applying early will force the plants to use too many nutrients they have stored over the winter. It will be worn out before the summer. Too many people jump the gun with spring fertilizer and cause problems with late spring and summer growth and health. Fertilizing late is better than fertilizing early. Change that, fertilizing late is much better than fertilizing early. We typically talk about fertilizing on Memorial Day for two reasons: one is that it is easy to remember, and the second is that it is guaranteed to be after the grass has stopped rocketing out of the ground. On to summer... Summer All Season Mow at height of 4" June June 26 - July 10 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen June 22 - Grub worm preventer application deadline. First: Grass undergoing summer heat stress can sometimes be overstressed by a dose of chemical fertilizer. For that reason, if you are going to recommend summer fertilizer, I would emphasize using an organic fertilizer like Milorganite, alfalfa pellets, or soybean meal. Second: Recommending insecticide on a lawn with no grubs is irresponsible. What I would recommend for that date is to dig up a square foot of the lawn searching for grubs. If fewer than a dozen are found in that square foot, the homeowner is good to go. If he/she finds uncountable masses of grubs, then it's time to apply the insecticide. Grubs, by the way, can be anticipated if you had swarms of beetles around your porch lights in late May or early June. This is true north or south although the beetle and grub species are different. Fall All Season Mow at height of 3.5" Mow at height of 3" for last mow of fall, just before or just after the first frost September September 22 - First day to seed September 1 - September 23 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen October October 7 - Last day to seed November November 13 - Fertilize with 3.75 lbs of Nitrogen First: As I recall the summer temps begin to cool off in late August. Is that what your temp monitors suggest for that zip? Anyway the time to seed in spring is as early as practical when the summer heat breaks. Reason? Because that gives you time to redo it if necessary after you see the results. Second: Using the natural approach to fertilizing, the time to winterize is after the last blade of grass stops growing but before the grass turns brown. The idea is to get fertilizer into the roots such that new growth is not stimulated by the fertilizer. The final fertilizer should be fast release, high N. Lastly I notice you said nothing about watering. Watering is the single most important part of lawn care. As long as you have temperature charts built into this, the watering part should be a cinch. Here's what I have written about watering. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall.

I wouldn't worry about rose purgatory. After all, you're planting on YOUR side of the fence, lol. I say go for it. But if you haven't completely settled on Treasure Trove you might look at some I've grown. If you're thinking in terms of coverage and securing your perimeter against mean neighbors and/or zombies, there's nothing like the sempervirens ramblers. I've grown all these I mention below (except Awakening. It's new this year) in my zone 7a without any problem. The only time any of them had dieback was after the Arctic Express back in the 80's when we set the record of -24F. All of them are healthy for me. My favorite is Francois Jaranville, a beautiful warm pink/peach. Gardenia is a great warm white with hint of creamy yellow. It will bloom in some shade and gets HUGE. I'm talking 30+ feet. Of course there is my pink trio: Dr W. Van Fleet, New Dawn and Awakening (once-blooming dad, reblooming sport-daughter, and double reblooming grand-daughter, lol). There are many other sempervirens climbers to look at on HMF, some more rambunctious than others, and I assume you want a BIG rose. If you're concerned about hardiness, you might look at the setigera climbers. Some are house eaters as well, but in general are hardier than the sempervirens. Long John Silver (white) and Baltimore Belle (pink) are big, boisterous and bountiful. If you just want to block the view, you probably couldn't do better than good old climbing Mlle Cecile Brunner. If you can track it down, there's an elusive reblooming form somewhere out there. Mine has rebloomed a smattering in the past when I've done some judicious pruning right after the Spring flush, but it's getting much too big to bother with. If I were you, I'd contact Lynette, aka oldrosarian. There isn't much about climbing roses she doesn't know, and not many she hasn't grown! And her photos...oy vey!