I have found, real world experience, that in many cases older appliances are just better made and last way beyond. Think of all the latest greatest E- stuff we somehow all of a sudden don't seem to be able to live without; it just adds more layers of parts to malfunction and go haywire. I submit to you my ~mid 80's era Maytag dryer. Stopped heating, had to replace thermostat. Did some due diligence online research and once I figured out the little details on how and what I was absolutely amazed at the simplicity and overall quality of design and manufacturing. Took about 30 minutes start to finish, $35 part, and voila. All done. If parts remain available this dryer will run literally forever at very little repair/ maint. cost. Curren t appliances with all their additions of whistles and bells and E-tronics (vs solid state) that create an Achilles heel - they are designed to fail, NOT to be repaired. This would be acceptable, somewhat.....if only they are cheap. But they are NOT. Like...$1500 for a new fridge not cheap....Ermagawd....you have to be kidding me! Relevance to this thread? I own a 1991 Kenmore Sears GE made in USA fridge. Always cold. Never fails. And just overall awesome (has the front 'convenience entrance-door or whateveryacallit - its just awesome and why i got it. Best feature EVER!. Sure its getting a bit long in the tooth, but as this one found its spot as 'backup' I've purchased and replaced 2 other newer fridges alongside it, both more fancy. So yeah...back up already.... From here on if it breaks it gets replaced with the absolute most basic least parts to malfunction cheapest model. Just sayin.

Transmission...missing certain gears. Pump problem...borken and won't hold water in place. Could also be the timer--malfuntions cause the other components to do the wrong/right--depending on how you look at it--thing at the wrong time. At eight years old these are all common problems.

This handle can be re-attached with rivets. Solid, tubular (eyelets), or semi-tubular rivets may be used. I recommend the solid or semi-tubular type. However, the semi-tubular type must be of proper lenght to work right. If you do not have such, choose solid. Heading a solid rivet requires more peening, but it is the most simple rivet and is strong. Solid rivets can be cut to length as required. The cut end does not have to be pretty since it is going to be hammered over. Rivet materials: Do not use steel. Corrosion is a problem. Since the colander is made of stainless (probably the 400 series), a soft stainless rivet is good, but you may not be able to find one to suit. Other rivet materials are aluminum and brass. Aluninum is corrosion resistant due to an oxide film on it; Aluminum in contact with stainless may sacificially corrode and fail. This leaves brass. Select the rivets and drill holes: Two holes at each end of the handle. Dry fit the parts to insure that everything is ready. Joint sealer: A joint sealer is recommended. Mix up some clear to light colored epoxy for this. Put some epoxy in the joint and on the rivet. The object is to seal the joint and rivet holes. The sealer keeps water and crud from collecting in the joint, and reduces potential for toxins (from bacteria). After the handle is tightly riveted, wipe off the excess epoxy with paper toweling. After the epoxy has well set, the colander is ready for use. you may consider tagging the colander with the message, "Do not use in oven". I don't know why one would put a colander in the oven, or any other very hot place, but such a reminder is a good precaution. Many 5-minute epoxies soften at 150 F and melts with a little more temperature. Epoxies resistant to higher temperatures usually require longer setting times, some running more than an hour. But these epoxies can fail at 350 F. The best policy to preserve your good repair is to not heat it to high temperature and smoke the adhesive. A weather sealed joint can last the lifetime of the item.

The full model number is 110.20922990 (the leading three digits are significant on any Kenmore model number). The Rinse (Options) switch comes into play only when the timer gets past the marked Spin phase to Off. It keeps the timer advancing through Off into the 2nd Rinse phase of the cycle sequence. Presumably you're referring to the problem occurring at the first Rinse phase. The machine fills for the wash period, agitates, drains, runs the first spin, then immediately stops with the faint buzzing sound? It doesn't fill for the rinse? Does the buzzing stay continuous if you let it sit for 5+ mins? What temperature selection(s) are you using?