Yard Pro was made by AYP (Electrolux then Husqvarna). If you have the model number (under the seat, on a label) you should be able to get an exploded diagram from Sear Parts website. Without a model number, it's hard to help you further. Here is a link that might be useful: Sears Parts Direct

Hi Shovelslave, I see a number of problems. First, if the grass band is growing up next to the older azaleas, the grass is competing with the azalea roots which is a very bad situation. But don't cultivate, just mulch to keep the grass and weeds back. Mulching is not just a good idea, it is essential to grow healthy azaleas. Second, the pine straw is about the best mulch you can get for azaleas. You don't need to compost it. Spread about 2 inches of pine straw under your azaleas. This will prevent the grass and weeds from competing with the roots and also provide a slow steady source of nutrients as the pine straw decays in place. You will need to add more pine straw each year to make up for the naturally decaying of the existing pine straw. It is a crime to destroy pine straw and not mulch shrubs and other plants. Even trees can benefit from pine straw mulch. Third, some shade is good, but to much shade tends to make azaleas tall and gangly and not bloom. The best thing to do is to remove the lower branches on the trees near the azaleas so they don't shade the azaleas. Then thin out the taller branches if you still have too much shade. Fourth, drought is a problem. The best precaution is shade and mulch. A properly mulched azalea with afternoon shade can take drought much better than an azalea with no mulch in full sun. I would recommend watering thoroughly about every 2 weeks in a drought, especially in your area where summer drought is not natural like it is in the Pacific Northwest. Fifth, a properly mulched planting not only is much easier to maintain and has healthier plants, but also looks much better. Commercial plantings have people come in to top off the mulch for these very reasons. It is much easier and safer to edge near a mulched bed than near a tree or other plant. One precaution, it is a good idea to pull the pine straw back from the stems of woody plants like azaleas and trees. Voles can tunnel under the mulch and chew on the stems and bark. This is mainly a problem in the north when snow is on the ground. I am not sure how much of a problem this would be in Georgia. Good Luck!

i bought the quattro for $5999. i did not get any extra goodies except the luggage. i could have used the 5x7 hoop. otherwise, i did not need the extra stuff. so far, this is the best machine ive ever seen or owned. and i have had machines. i bought a bernina 440qe new 2 years ago. this machine sews circles around it. i also have a used viking designer 2 with a bunch of goodies. it outsews that machine too. it does everything both brands do, and more. very easy to use, great price, quality plus, and a dealer 4 mins away. it was a no brainer for me. jennifer kosco

Most plants absorb N-P-K in about a 3:1:2 ratio. Foliage Pro matches that ratio perfectly, whereas Dyna-Gro's other products contain way more P than necessary and considerably more K as well. The market is filled with high P fertilizers due to the myths that a 1:1:1 ratio is a proper ratio for general growth, and that even higher levels of P increase flowering. One might wonder why companies make these useless formulas, and I think the CEO of Dyna-Gro himself said it best. "...it is simpler to give the market what they think they need than to try to reeducate it." http://forums2.gardenweb.com/discussions/1388370/the-uselessness-of-high-p-fertilizers Can't say I blame him. If Dyna-Gro didn't make high P formulas, people would just buy them somewhere else. Thankfully they make a proper formula for those of us that want it. -Chris