It is usually far easier to clean a one piece skirted toilet, as it doesn't have a separate tank that attaches. There are plenty of one-piece toilets with standard height tanks. I also recommend getting ADA height toilets, as they are far easier to get up from (particularly as you get older it is a big benefit). The bottom part of a toilet is much easier to clean if it has a smooth skirting, as opposed top those with lots of in and out movement tracing the plumbing. The Toto Soiree and Guinevere are two examples of great flushing units with easy to clean sides, as there are no difficult places to clean on the exterior. These two models also have a cyclonic flush which keeps the underside lip of the toilet far cleaner than standard gravity or power flushes. Then again, these models are around $500. The Toto Ultramax ADA is also very good (and less expensive than the Soiree, but it has more curves in the area that can be skirted. Greg

Carrier #58UVB is their 95% AFUE furnace. I do not know of any material problems with this model. I have many of these units installed and have not experienced and reliability problems. Condensate into the sump, why not. The condensate is slightly acidic but should not present any problems. If the thought bothers you, take a piece of 6"PVC with an end cap, drill a hole in the bottom, fill the PVC with marble chips (lime stone), run the condensate over the chips and drain into the sump. The ph should be around 7 which is neutral. You will get a slight by-product of co2 from the reaction. A 16 year old house, how large? Your home should have R13 in the walls and minimum of R-30 possibly R-45 in the ceiling depending on building codes when your home was built. 100k-Btu sounds large to me, except if you have a mansion. I would advise a manual-J. How large is your existing furnace? If you are changing your furnace to save a lot of $$ in energy costs, your savings will be about 16%. Is that enough to justify a $4000.00 investment? Good luck,

Fred S, Thank you for questions. And the information I garnered from them. Mostly I learned that I know very darn little about this technology and what I need or can use. Perhaps I should have waited until I could get to a store and actually look at sets. Our main TV watching is in my small den where i have a fairly big (48?"--can't remember) 3-year old flat screen and a bose surround system with Tivo and Time-Warner cable service. This is where I also have my Mac computer and printer. This is where my husband and I watch tv of an evening and where I check out email and do the morning crossword and ken ken and soduko puzzles as the cable and local news and weather stations buzz by. Evenings we often watch a Netflix movie or a Tivo-saved favorite. We very seldom watch hard copy movies. If I get a Netflix movie on disk, we will watch it here, not on the new tv. The new set will be in the family room where it will largely be "background" noise. It It will probably not be connected to Tivo, because when I bought the Tivo, I bought a life-of-the-Tivo-box contract. If I upgrade to whole house, I have to start paying again. Don't want to do that yet. I really do want good sound and a wide viewing angle. Not Bose quality (although I have an old Bose CD/AM/FM radio in there), but better than any over-the-counter tv I have ever had. However, there is no reason at all to buy a set that has more resolution than we will be able to see. I can't buy side bars that will improve something that isn't in the sent information. Do I have to have a frame? I have not yet gone looking at actual sets. (I sprained an ankle when my garden tractor bucked me off. One foot was caught between the pedals and I am temporarily limited in range. First time after nearly 10 years of using that sucker all over our hilly terrain). On Amazon some sets look almost frameless. The one I have has a 1 1/2 to 2 inch frame around it. I would love to have none at all--or at least the minimum frame and the absolute minimum depth. I hope this isn't uselessly wordy. I would appreciate any guidance that will help me when I go in to talk to salesmen.

mtv, back in the day, it was generally cheaper to buy your phone outright rather than to subsidize the phone. When you subsidized, you paid the $100 or $200 up front, but the rest of the cost of your phone was built into your phone plan/contract. When you get to the end of your contract, the you've paid off the phone. The trouble with how that use to work, is that when you pay off your phone, your plan doesn't go down, so you were still paying more for that phone cost for no benefit. You would religiously need to update at the end of your contract to not throw money away. But, now most contracts are on the phone, and not your plan. So when you pay off your phone cost, your monthly premiums reduce, also why you normally don't have to switch plans when to get a new phone subsidy anymore. Depending on that monthly cost, you're typically going to spend the same paying up front via monthly payments. The difference maker is going to be device sales, and reduce priced phones (like older phones, or refurbished).