Which Intuitive Eco model? There were three on the U.S. market -- IWL12, IWL15, and IWL16. You need to run some diagnostics to confirm what's working and what isn't (if anything). - With power off, press/hold Lifecycles, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel comes on. Release the buttons. - If the LCD backlight is on but a blank display (which it should be blank at this point), press Lifecycles again. An information screen should appear. If the screen is not blank then there's no need to press Lifecycles to get the display. - There are three diagnostic information screens. Press Option Up or Down to switch through the screens. Make note of any code numbers on Warning Status and Fault Status screens. Set the display to the Machine Status screen. - Notice it says Diverter:Off at the upper left below Machine Status. Continue to the next step. - Press How Dirty Up to run hot water. Press How Dirty Down to run cold water. Run each for a couple mins to confirm they keep running (must hold the button). A flaky valve solenoid may work at first when cool, then fail when it gets heated from use. Check that the hot water runs hot and cold runs cold (which will confirm you have the supply hoses connected correctly). Water will fill into the tub as you run it, which is OK, some water is needed for the next test. - Press the Home button. Diverter status should change to :Heating. Wait a minute or so, it should change to Diverter:On. Continue to the next step when that happens. - Press Fabric Care. The pump should turn on and water should shower out of the recirculation port at top right/rear under the tub cover. This is important - NO WATER should be flowing out of the drain hose. - Press Fabric Care (turns the pump off) and Home (turns the diverter off). The Diverter status will change to :Cooling, then to Diverter:Off in a couple mins or so. Go to the next step when that happens. - Press Fabric Care to turn the pump back on. Water should flow out of the drain hose ... and this is important - NONE from the recirculation port. Let the water drain completely. Press Power to exit diagnostics and report back here the results of your testing.

Got the dreaded "No Power Cell 2" message (yes, it says "2" as well, vice NO Power Cell". Had Pinch a Penny check my under warranty T-CELL-15 - said it passed. Looked at several forums and found this one. Checked my fuses, appear ok - not broken/blown. Wish that was the case however. Notice Amazon sells a PCB board for 350 or so. Before ordering and doing this myself, I noticed a link for navyvet about the circular "fuse" for lack on a better term, specifically the Digi key pn# 570-1062-ND. Will need to take my board off to see if I can find burn marks, then try my hand at soldering (or call a friend). Anyone successful with the soldering, then have issues later on? Don't want to spend money on a new Circuit Board if I can prevent it, but don't really want to repeat the soldering work constantly. Any feedback is appreciated. I'm a newbie at the forum, so if the question has been asked, shoot me the link. Also, anyone else have issues going to www.nopowercell.com? sees down for me. Thank you for your time in advance fellow forum members and DIY repair techs.

Well, at least you're not the only one having this problem: http://ths.gardenweb.com/discussions/3137977/no-drawers-next-to-or-beneath-your-cooktop-range-on-purpose FWIW, as for security settings. I use ghostery, which often has to be turned off to use a website at all, but have never seen the error.

Thanks but using my iPhone (no computer) Never had a problem up until I reset my phone. Had the old gardenweb saved onto it and now can only get houzz :( I was just able to add a couple photos to a thread, just not able to make a new thread with photos myself. Strange...