Given the choice, I would go with all vinyl framed thermopane, especially as very few of them in a GH need to be operating and non-operable windows are not all that pricey. But as long as nobody lobs a fast ball into them, unlike polycarb, that will have to be replaced sooner than later and in the sunny south, sooner- glass will last as long as your home. To keep the costs down, check out what is available in your local home centers and determine which sized windows are stock and what sizes are the least costly, then frame the GH to accomdate them. Another benefit of glass is the ease of cleaning it and the ability to use the cheapest yet most effective means of totally removing the mildew, mold and algae inherient to all GH's; bleach, which is deadly to polycarb. Then, there is the shadecloth you won't need. Just go back to what was used on glass GH's before polycarb: water based whitewash. Spray it on in spring and power wash it off in fall. I do agree about making it larger than you think you will need. They are never as large as we think we need. Or, construct it with doors at each end, with the thought in mind of adding on later. And do use an insulated door. It would seem a pity to construct a GH like that, then lose heat/cool through a door. Or, go with a really heavy, tightly sealed insulated storm door, not the lightweight junk that comes with most prefab GH's, even the most expensive ones. However, for framing, think twice about using cedar. The average cedar now sold is not only far more expensive than treated, it's not what was available 40 years ago. All of the tight grained old growth is gone and what is now on the average priced market is soft, fast growth farmed lumber that will rot out faster than treated. Good quality treated lumber, if gone over with several heavy coats of any good oil based penetrating stain sealer, will outlast cedar by a mile, and look good for years. And- when you do restain it, if you dribble any onto the glass, you can use paint thinner that would destroy polycarb to wipe it off and/or go over it when it dries the same way you would any window; with a razor scraper. Then- talk about a garden GH as a class act...

I am going into my third year, and when I started I started with all new materials. Last year, my second, I switched out a few of the worst looking frames and replaced the foundation. Last summer's honey production was poor. I took no honey, although I could have gotten a few pounds, I didn't get around to it. So the bees went into winter with some stores, in addition to my keeping them in sugar water from early fall to as late as I could get out the hive. My beekeeper/supplier said that most of the honey producers here west of Boston had a terrible crop: way too much rain way too late into the season. We did insulate the hive: made a rigid insulation box to fit right over the hive. No insulation on top, and bottom space with mouse guard open. However, frigid weather came before christmas (very early) and the insulation was not put on by then. Their sugar water supply was in, though. In January and Feb. as I said extended periods of subzero weather. In January we have always had a "January thaw". This year, not. Inspecting the hive on a warm day two weeks ago, the brood chamber looked good: healthy dark, drawn foundation, no dead brood. The upper foundation showed a mistake I made early in the season. When I took out a couple of frames for the can of sugar water that comes with a new package, I never removed the can and replaced the frames. Those bees did what comes naturally and made a beautiful mess of burr comb. in that open space between the frames in upper box. But, the hive was happy and healthy. I fed the bees beginning in mid fall. The sugar water was not in a big can; I think it was a 16 oz. jar. They emptied one and a half between late fall and spring. Since I did not get out to hive for quite a while, I don't know when they stopped feeding, which would give a good indication of when they died. But they did not get to empty the second jar. I am pretty sure they did not have mites in the fall. I did not medicate for mites, however. The queen was in the upper chamber, surrounded by a good number of bees. All dead. Obviously. They really looked frozen- I mean embalmed. I At that point I took 6 pounds of honey and left, I guess, 3 on partially filled foundations. I did not have a single full foundation of honey. Markedly less than my first year. And yes, I have one hive, and my supplier recommends that I get another, too, and have two. I'm not too discouraged, but my husband feels really bad. Now that sentimentality surprises me! He really thinks we killed them somehow. I don't. Hope I haven't tried your patience with my missive. That's the story of Marie's bees 08. I'm very interested in your own thoughts and any suggestions about how to have a more successful season and overwintering in '10. Marie

This thread is so sad!! Dcipher gave us a beautiful review of a new range that he and his wife both enjoyed using. Okay, I would have liked it if they'd baked cookies and yeast buns as well, but it's still a great review that tested many of the rest of the abilities of the range. Instead of appreciating the unbiased hands on trial of Dcipher's DW, we're carping on an offhand comment of Trevor's? I have both Wolf gas and Gaggenau induction cooktops. I can only relate to the "life" comment in that the gas sucks up oxygen like a dragon, in addition to the gonzo hood sucking up more with its great sucking breath (can anyone spell make-up air?). I feel like the induction gives me more control and lets me focus more on the food and less on the fire. So...what? Yes, the whole heat transfer to just boiled cooktop measure is trivial (and my induction flashes "h" when an element is too hot to touch as a reminder), but Dcipher obviously had misunderstood what was meant when we said that induction stays cool. That means that the adjacent areas to the element stay cool enough to clean up spills, to not crust on spill that aren't cleaned, and to not burn paper put under the pan, not that you can touch it after boiling. I understand that if he had thought that might be a draw for him, he might be disappointed that it wasn't the case. Instead, we're sniping about it! I love my cooking appliances. I've been cooking ever so much on them! They're lovely to use. But when asked to recommend a gas range, I mentioned the Culinarian as one whose features suited the cook in question. It seems like a lovely range and people are very happy so far with the performance. I'm sure Mr. & Mrs. Dcipher will be happy with it. And it was very generous of them to share their thoughts. Why can't we just wish them well with their new range and their new kitchen? Thank-you, Dcipher, for a lovely review. All the best to you both with your new kitchen to come.

I was able to get info on the existing furnace from the data plate. It's a Carrier Model 58ss140-BC, Series 110, 167,000 BTU. The data plate said the blower is "157", whatever that means. The motor spec was 1/2 hp. Mfg date 1982. That's all I found on the furnace. I found next to nothing on the a/c. The data plates outside are gone. I could see where it was but there was just rivets. A single, long rectangular unit outside. Like I said, vintage 1974, from the builder. According to my mother, the quoting contractors guessed that the system was 4 or 5 tons. I don't know anything about who said what. Turns out the Lennox/Costco guy was the only one to quote an upgraded unit. He also quoted: Option #3B. $9,185. Platinum Package. A/C XC17-048 and 2 stage gas furnace SL280UH135 with variable speed and I-Comfort Communicating Controller. I'm having a hard time getting her to look at the Am Std quote because they didn't quote her an upgraded unit option and their basic units were only about $1,000 cheaper than the upgraded Lennox units. ($9,145 vs $7,945). About the house, I tried to describe it above. Built 1974. 3200 sq ft. and two stories. Attached garage. Full sun exposure--the property is not shaded. Brick exterior with not a whole heck of a lot of insulation. (I remember my parents being mad that the builder gipped them on the insulation.) High quality house though, expensive neighborhood. Stick framed over a full basement. Attic with pitched shingle roof. Colonial. Original single pane wood windows with storms windows, maybe a tad drafty. After being widowed with 4 kids in 1978, she never had the money to remodel anything and everything is pretty much 1974. Anything else you want to know about the house, please ask. This is all I could think of.