where was the leaking coming from?

did the unit shut itself off and throw a fault light ?

It did not give a fault message nor did it shut off. It is leaking from under the kick board in the front.

Sounds like a faulty install, not a faulty machine. Have you actually pulled the machine out to check the hose connections?

The company from whom we bought the machine, and who installed it, told us to call Miele service so no one has pulled out the machine to check the hose connections. We are leaving it to the experts so we don't do anything that could jeopardize the warranty.

What about my description suggests a faulty install to you?

You're not going to jeopardize the warranty by doing a little simple sleuthing. It will help the repairman narrow down what the issue might be. But, the fact that you didn't get an error code and shut off suggests one of two things as the possible problem. First, that the problem doesn't originate with the DW itself, but outside the DW in the connection hoses. I'm assuming those are new braided stainless? The second possibility would be that there is a faulty sensor that isn't triggering the error code and shutoff, but knowing Meile, they probably have a backup sensor for a feature that important.

Ditto with no fault code thrown.

I'd suspect a damaged hose, as the connection is made inside the machine itself and would be part of the fault sensor system.

-OR -

I'd could also be a poor, damaged or missing door seal that lets water leak out while the machine is running. This would be fairly easy to spot though.

My Miele Diamante from 4 years ago came with both the water intake and drain hose installed from the factory, I believe all Miele units are like that. They just have to be connected to the water line (hot or cold) and to the drainage (garbage disposal). If the leak is near the front of the unit (door) then it sounds like maybe the black rubber seal may need to be replaced. Or the latch at the top isn't sealing the door good enough for water to leak.

I believe the intake hose is double wall; a cut in the outer won't cause a leak until the inner fails, a cut in the inner will set off an alarm. I would blindly vote for the door seal.

kas

Kas, Miele changed their setup about two years ago. Gone is the double wall hose with the box on the end that needed to hookup to a hose bib or washer valve.

They now come with a stainless steel braided line with a standard 3/8 compression hookup.

Think your prob. Right about the source of the leak though.

Thanks all for suggestions. Hose is brand new Miele that came with the machine. It connects to connector under kitchen sink. I was surprised they didn't have to elevate hose -- which I'd seen in threads as causing installation problems -- but was told that process had changed several years ago.

Miele repair is due tomorrow. Will let you know what is found. Hopefully it will help the next person diagnose a problem.

xedos:

Thanks for the update. I assume then that the intake solenoid moved to the guts of the unit. (The 'box' contained a pair of solenoids.)

Such a hose configuration could leak without any dishwasher reaction. My view is that any use of water hoses over any floor not concrete or tile with a drain should have an accompanying water alarm (generally after-market). The alarm cost pales against the cost of repairing a damaged floor and possibly the lower kitchen cabinets.

kas

It's my understanding that the "box" did move inside the unit, but I cannot confirm - as I have not seen a disassembled unit and have been too busy / lazy to pull up the service isometric to look at the new parts.

Agree with you that a "water cop" is short money compared with the repair bills after a flood/leak. Nice thing with some of them is you get one valve and brain and can run several appliance or bathtub sensors off of it.

Here is a link that might be useful: what's a water cop ???

My Miele technician is following the "when in doubt, change it out" methodology so he has ordered a seal. It will be another 10 days to 2 weeks before we will know if that does it.

Thanks for the help, you all. From what he explained, it was pretty much down to seal or latch because other than that such a leak would have been caught in the tray beneath the tub and tripped the fault switch.

The latch that sticks out at the top is adjustable. But you need a torx bit to unscrew it. The more you push the latch in, the tighter the seal, but the harder it is to get the door to lock on the latch. If you pull the latch out too far, you can hear more water washing sound from the unit, but the door is easier to close. I manually adjusted my latch so it was a tight enough to seal off water spray sound, but not too hard to close and lock the door.

The person that you talked to that set up the appointment should have went ahead and ordered the seals, so that the tech could have installed them. Now you have to wait around for that.

It's pretty confusing. The second Miele rep came to install the seal and found that the dishwasher had not been properly installed. This dishwasher should have been secured to the sides of the cabinet, not the top as had been done. He surmised it was because the installer would have needed to shim the cabinet; instead, he installed it as had been the previous Kitchen Aid. The Miele rep took out the top screw (which has resulted in nearly dumping dishes onto the floor because now the whole shebang tips with the weight) and levelled it. But, he went ahead and replaced the seal just in case.

It hasn't leaked. That's the good news. Though Lord knows what remedied it, with all the changes.

The bad news is we have to get the installer back to do it right and who knows if it will continue to be leak free. To say I have lost confidence in this chosen Miele retailer is an understatement. But once again I am glad I chose a Miele product because it works so nicely when installed correctly and customer service has been great. (I cringe to think of the money they lose on bad installations.)

Is your countertop granite (or some other stone)?

At a minimum, not attaching the unit at the sides using the correct width opening will allow more noise into the kitchen. The cabinet installer should add a trim piece so the opening is the specified width. The trim, if installed with screws, can be removed if ever switching to an "American" width unit.

kas