I have found that most homeowners are resistant to taking oversized plants out, even if they are pushing on the eaves of the house or lifting hardscape. Then there are the costs of removal, hauling fees, and expenses for repairs. If the plan is to pass the buck to the buyer of your house, it is common for them to request money back for removal of problem landscape plants. Or if you take them out before putting the house on the market, not only could it be considerable work, but you miss out on the value and desirability the landscape would have brought to your house. It may happen that when the plants need to be removed, you may not be physically able to do the work as planned, and will have to pay someone to remove them. A better plan is to just spend the money up front and purchase larger nursery stock and use a good design from the beginning. You get to enjoy the plants during your stay, and then the mature plants will add to the value of your home when it is sold. It is rarely necessary to splurge on larger plants for all of the landscape; often just the major trees, specimen plants and perhaps shrubs used for screening.. On the other hand, it is not always wrong to plant things with the intention of removing some or all of them later. But the design, selection and location of those plants needs to be well thought out. As well as the plan for removal and disposal (including access to the location). They should never be used where the temporary plants could cause damage to the home or hardscape if they are left in place too long. After the removal of the temporary plants, ideally, the value of the landscape should not diminish.

My 2 year old electric stove (Frigidaire) has no heat sensors on the top of the stove. I used the oven broiler, for about half an hour, a few weeks ago and the whole top of my stove got VERY hot, too hot, in fact, to even touch it. The canning burner has a metal ring (with small holes punched into its side) on the outer diameter to help shield some of the heat. The electical socket for each burner on most stoves have a single screw that holds the socket in place and two wires that connect to it. If you unplug the burner and replace it with the regular one after canning, it will not usually fail. The way you can tell if the plug in sockets need replacement (cost about $9.00) is when the electrical contacts at the ends of the elements are dark and appear burned. Usually this is a good indication of a poor connection caused by a bad socket, and it can only get worse. It takes maybe 10 minutes to replace an electric burner socket if its burned inside. With regular elements being used for canning, the elements get so hot, that the metal struts that support them also get red, soften, and then sag into the burner bowl. My stoves regular burners heated up the chrome plated bowl so bad it lost all of its plating and started to rust. Once it gets dark on the bowl, it will absorb heat from the burner, and this can further damage the stove surface, especially around the rim of the bowl and stove surface. Thats the main reason the canning burner is raised, as it has thicker struts, and will not allow as much heat to build up below the burner and bowl area. The real difference in the two types of burners is the true canning one is higher off the stove by almost 2 inches. The one that is not raised, has an extra coil turn in it only, and will sag just as badly as the original burners that come with electric stoves, because it has no wider support struts to help hold it flat. A top view photo doesn't show the heat shield that encircles the burner unless you look carefully at the outer circumference in the photo. If it were a side view, you can easily see the real differences. The choice #2 is fine for big pots that are not going to be used for hours at high temps while in canning modes. I have one of these as well as the stardard one thats supplied with the stove, so that I get a bit more heat for things like boiling water for pasta.

Let me try to put you mind at rest on cookware. On flaking of enamel from enameled cast-iron, you'll need to check on specific brands. I recall (but cannot find) a chowhound discussion of this last winter. The gist of it (IIRC) was that the less expensive brands were more likely to experience enamel flaking and the most typical offenders were Martha Stewart, Mario Batali and Rachel Ray brands. You will find some reports on Tramontina and Lodge pots, but most folks seem happy with them. The Tramontina 6 qt. dutch oven model was running about $50 at Wall Mart. The most recent Cook's Illustrated magazine (May-June 2013) says it performs nearly as well as brands costing five times as much (e.g., Le Creuset and Staub). There is also Lodge's own line of enameled cast iron dutch ovens which cost more than the Tramontina line but are still less than half the cost of Le Crueset and Staub. A friend of mine bought one of the "Kirkland" enameled dutch ovens from our local Costco for (I think) about $80 last winter. I do not know if that pan is made by Tramontina or Lodge, but it seems to be work very well and has not flaked on the interior. (She's using it on an old coil burner stove, btw.) So, plenty of alternatives to LC. On non-stick: the stuff is inert when it flakes. Internet research will turn up a lot of paranoid (and mostly fact-free) raving about non-stick just as there is with induction, itself. Did you know, for example, that induction cooks food in half the time of other stoves because it works like a microwave but does not contain the "low frequency radiation" which makes induction dangerous to your health, and that it may send current into your body if you use a metal spoon? That must be true because somebody posted this on the 'net! :>) To be sure, there are some real problems with NS coatings, even though poisonous/toxic flaking is not one of them. The actual problems with non-stick coatings are: (a) the chemicals used during the manufacturing process can be hazardous to the factory workers (e.g., toxic and/or carcinogenic). Those chemicals do not get passed on to the consumers who buy the finished products, but the potential risks for the workers may make your conscience uneasy about buying NS products. (b) getting a NS pan too hot (as in over 650F) will cause the coating to decompose and the resulting fumes reportedly can cause "flu-like" symptoms in people, Those fumes can be toxic to birds (but then, so can the fumes from a self-cleaning oven.. Considering that 650F is hotter than the melting point of lead, and that temps over 500F will generally degrade the slipperiness of teflon (i.e., diminish or ruin the non-stick-ability), and that that most of us would sear meat at around 450F (and wouldn't use non-stick pans for that purpose, anyway), and that most cooking oils have smoke points in the range of 350F to 400F, you can safely use NS by simply recognizing the limits and respecting them, if you like NS pans. The problem with NS on induction comes from failing to recognize how quickly induction brings a pan to heat. This will be especially problematic for those in the habit of cranking a burner to maximum, walking away for several minutes, then adding oil or whatever, and then reducing the heat. Do that with induction and you can have your empty NS pan at the melting point of lead before you know it. Heck, do that with a cast iron pan and the too-rapid rise in heat may crack the pan; there was a thread here discussing this point last summer. Get a cast iron pan to 600F and your are burning off the seasoning, as well. So, just set the NS pan to the temp you want to use, it will be at temp pdq, and you will be fine using it. As for stainless steel and ease of cleaning, that depends somewhat on the pan construction and on technique. Something thin and light is apt heat unevenly and burn food just as it would on any other stove. A more substantial pan will heat more evenly and be less likely to burn. The trick is usually said to be to get the pan hot, then add oil, and wait for ripples to appear (or wisps of vapor from the oil) before starting to cook. When you are done, you can put that SS pan in the dishwasher. For what is not cleaned it completely, a quick scrub with a sponge and some Barkeeper's Friend will easily and quickly polish it back up. Costco also has a number of decent induction capable cookware sets for less than $200. The selection seems to vary from season to seaon. Last year, I bought a 7 pot set of Circulon "Premier Professional" for $179. (2 sauce pans, a 6 quart stock pot, 3 fry pans (8" to 12") and a 3.5 qt. saute pan, plus lids.) They have anodized aluminum bodies with magnetic bases and non-stick interiors. The pans have worked very well for me on both induction and gas burners. I think there is a comparable "Kirkland" set on sale at Costco, now.) This post was edited by JWVideo on Sun, Jun 2, 13 at 14:50

Tile breaks when it’s insufficiently supported. That’s a manufactured home’s stock in trade. It’s is not built to stick built standards of support and rigidity. Which is why they use vinyl and laminate in all of them. Choosing tile is setting yourself up for failure and additional expense to replace it all.