"Program Outline: March 13: Applied Halts preEm. Did not contain fertilizer" There are other preemergents that are cheaper and longer acting than Halts. Dimension is one, Barricade, and Stonewall are others. While it might be a bit early for a preemergent, this has been an atypical winter, and weeds are going to be early this year. "Mid April: Put down one application of liquid weed killer." How do you plan on doing this, just a blanket spray of Weed-B-Gone? If weed pressure is low I would just spot spray weeds as necessary. "Late April: Apply weed/feed." Terrible idea. Weed and Feed products have one purpose, higher profits for Scotts. If you want to fertilize, that's fine, but kill weeds separately, and generally a week or two after fertilizing. "Late May: Apply one application of Milorganite Late June: Apply one application of Milorganite" Fine, you can do it any time. "Late June: Apply GrubX" Not sure of the timing on GrubX, but do a little research on when it's best to do so. "Late August: Core Aerate: Irrigate Immediatley following core aeration(1" of water)" Core aeration is generally not necessary unless your soil is compacted (rare), or very heavy clay (also rare but some areas do have it). I've done it, but many people feel that you bring up a lot of weed seeds with core aeration. "Early Sept: Verti-cut overseed with same TTTF/KBG mix. Apply starter fertilizer." If you have a healthy lawn, overseeding will probably not be necessary as the KBG will fill in bare areas. If you loose some grass to drought or disease then sure, but you should determine this in late summer. Early Oct:(4 weeks after seeding) apply PreEmerge with fertilizer. Im under the impression that the PreEmerge now will help control henbit in the early spring.... "If you overseed this can stunt new growth, and besides, you will have probably missed the poa annua window, as well as other winter annuals. You want to get the preemergent down earlier as soil temps fall below 70 degrees. "Late November: Apply nitrogen rich fert...Possibly urea." Yes, apply when topgrowth has stopped, but the ground isn't frozen. It should be a quick release source of nitrogen: urea, ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulphate. Few Questions: 1. Does the program make sense. Any recommneded tweeks? 2. Is it unwise to overseed a TTTF lawn every year? Already answered. 3. Does my preEmerg timing in the fall make sense...Long enough wait time to allow new seed to sprout. But put it down soon enough to provide henbit/poa control. Already answered. 4. I've thought about putting down a baby shampoo solution in May to help soften my soil...Does this make sense? It does, it can't ever hurt, but I think you should do a soil structure test (jar test). It's free and you can do it yourself. It will give you a pretty good idea of your true soil's composition.

Interesting to hear about other MG courses and goals. In So NV we are taught to prepare, plant, and maintain veggie gardens, home yards, flowers, trees, etc. We generally are taught diseases of plants that we can identify, maladies that beset plants, wrong growing practices, etc. But we are not expected to be fully trained Horticulturists or Botanists. We have projects all over the Las Vegas Valley at schools, hospitals, hospices, neighborhood parks, an orchard, an air force base. We spend time on the phones answering questions, or researching questions so we answer properly. We volunteer at many MG question tables at Farmer Markets, the State Fair, gardens throughout the valley, libraries, and gardening clubs. We learn as we go and do not attempt to be experts right out of classes. We pay $150.00, spend 80 hrs, received 3 books, a botany book, a Sunset book, and a desert gardening book, all extremely useful for gardening in this area. My thoughts on the original poster is that the MG program could not see how they could use someone well educated in wine grapes for their program. Any growing experience is valuable to any gardening experience. Sorry you got turned away. Work independently or with gardening clubs to move further in this endeavor. Good luck.

1. Contact your local office of the Pennsylvania State University USDA Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done. 2. If your soil is compacted, core aerate. 3. If needed, according to the soil test, spread lime. 4. Right now do not worry about the crabgrass which is an annual and will be dying soon anyway. 5. Do not worry about the White Dutch Clover which is adding needed Nitrogen to your soil. WDC is a good thing to have in an organic lawn. 6. Rototilling is a lot of hard work and may not be necessary. Spread Compost over the lawn, not too thickly, now and let the soil bacteria work it in for you. Those "weeds" that concern you will by dying for the winter soon anyway and this will give you, and your grass, a chance to fill in where those "weeds" grew. 7. Keep your lawn mowed. High, to a point, is better since that gives more leaf blade a chance to utilize more sunlight to manufacture necessary nutrients to feed the grass crown which will then send out more grass blades to absorb more sunlight. 8. Water, as needed. Every where you go people will tell you that your lawn will need 1 inch of water per week. that depends on the weather. Hot, dry, and windy weather will mean a lawn needs more water than that and cool, cloudy, calm weather can mean a lawn needs less water. 9. Overseeding is most often not necessary since a lawn properly cared for will grow and fill in faster than new seeds can germinate and grow. About the only people that will tell you that you do need to overseed are those with grass seed to sell. Mulch mow. The grass clippings can be a source of nutrients for your lawn, up to 1/2 the annual nutrient requirments of your lawn. Lawn clippings do not contribute to thatch buildup in the lawn, that is from improper fertilizing, applying too much weed killer, and applying poisons that kill the Soil Food Web so there is nothing to digest the dead plant matter. Here is a link that might be useful: PSUCES

Are you using Word 2007? If so, on the Home tab, in the Paragraph group, you'll see a paragraph mark, just like the one you posted above. Clicking it turns the "show formatting" on and off.