Most older cooktop or oven circuits would be 30 amp circuits. It'd be very very rare if the wire in the wall could support a 40 or 50 amp circuit. How much it would cost to run a complete new circuit to the location in question would depend on how accessible your current breaker box is, how easily it would be to run new wire through it and then up through your attic and down to the location you desire. It could be as low as a couple of hundred dollars for material and a couple of hundred for labor in a low labor market, or if things are hard to access, or if you live some place like Chicago that requires everything in conduit, then it could be in the high hundreds for material and low thousand for labor. There is really no way an internet forum can give you anything approaching an accurate estimate. Call a couple of licensed and insured local electrical firms after you ascertain the box location and how hard it will be to run the wire where you want it to be and ask them for a ballpark figure. You probably won't get any of them to give you a firm quote, or come out to inspect it first before giving you a quote. That's why it's best you investigate things yourself first so you know exactly what will be involved.

I learned about air switches on this forum & I am so glad that I have them. Here is why: 1) where would you put the switch on an island? 2) I didn't have a wall very close to my main sink, plus I didn't want anything messing up the backsplash 3) I no longer accidentally turn on the disposal when I reach for a light switch I bought my air switches at HD for about $60 each.

My first cat went to a fancy cat hospital right outside of DC to get spayed about 3 years ago. Even with a reduced fee spay certificate from the local SPCA it cost a lot more then 500.00. If you really like your vet then maybe it's worth it for you, but I would check around. 2 hours away from DC near where my sister lives (now I live there too!) it costs around 100.00 for a spay, so if you have family decently near I'd check around them as well. Good luck finding a place both you and your fur-baby love! :-)

A home inspection is not a code inspection by nationally accepted standardsÂ..and all state licensing. It is a popular fallacy that inspecting for code is part of a home inspection, but it is not...it is beyond the scopeÂand usually states as such in the pre-inspection agreement that should be provided to the buyer prior to inspection. It is indeed an inspection of the major systems and structure of the homeÂÂas well as an inspection for safety issues. While safety issues are often code violations, depending upon where one resides and their city/town code, a safety issue may or may not be a code violation. Realistically, no home inspector can be expected to know the code variances for every municipality in his/her state, and to keep on top of the constant changesÂ..which is why most municipalities have their own licensed code officials who are knowledgeable about the local code requirements. In addition, older homes have an inherent number of code violationsÂÂBUT they are grandfathered in are if they are original to the home and only must be brought to current code if a renovation is performed. This does not mean that home inspectors know nothing about codeÂsome know quite a bitÂsome know next to nothing. However, if they are not trained as code inspectors any code violations that a home inspector pontificates upon should absolutely be verified as such by the local a municipality code inspector, before any funds are spent to make changes. Anything cited as a safety issue should come with an explanation as to why it poses a safety hazard. Logic dictates that anything that compromises safety should be repaired. Last but not least, in such a buyers market, it really would behoove sellers to make all repairs beforehand, leaving little if anything to interfere with the deal once the findings of the home inspection are provided to the buyer.