"As I price things out, I could wind up with a 100k kitchen, once I factor in high end appliances, cabinets, counters, flooring and sinks and faucets. It seems over the top and I'm wondering what other people did in similar situations and if they were happy with their decision." There are several ways to minimize the cost of the kitchen without "cheaping out" on the house. And unless you are running with a really snooty crowd, they won't care that your faucet isn't gold plated and that your omelettes are cooked on a GE and not a LaCanche. Really think through the layout so you have an easy to work in space. Impress people with the workability, not the cost. Learn to spec out your requirements first ... move from general to specific, and think in terms of overall "look and feel" and function rather than a bucket list of "must have because it's high end" things. Remember that an "inspiration picture" is just for inspiration, not a shopping list. 1 - Decrease the size of the kitchen. Instead of a huge kitchen full of high-end cabinets to hold everything, have a smaller one with adequate prep and cooking space, enough cabinetry to store the cooking gear and spices and breakfast cereal and a moderate size refrigerator/freezer for the daily stuff like milk and eggs. Have an adjacent pantry for storage, and another refrigerator and a full-size freezer so you can stock up. But this area is not "on show", so varnished pine open shelving will do just fine at a fraction of the cost, and the appliances can be any decent brand. 2 - For appliances, think function instead of brand aura ... If you need a range with a center griddle, get the one that works the best for you, not the one in all the magazines. 3 - Go simple ... skip the ogee edges, the mocha glazing and stuff. It adds cost without adding to the usability. 4 - Check all price points for the style you want. Yes, it's true that labor will cost the same for $2/sf tile as $20/sf tile ... but as long as the lower priced tile fits the rest of your requirements and looks good, use it! 5 - Ski resorts appreciate offbeat things and imagination: Use recycled and upcycled things, like this kitchen storage wall made of various old storage units.

For me, appliances was the highest importance in the kitchen after layout. I wanted control and flexibility and peformance from all of my appliances. Definitely function over form. I would suggest that you look at how you plan to use the equipment and how the features can help you cook better and your family's enjoyment of food and eating more pleasurable. That being said, I also bargain hunted majorly and sometimes a good deal on ebay or something would force the choice. Yur mileage may vary. Cooktops - 36in induction. Shortlist = Miele or Gaggenau. Bought Gagg display model induction on ebay. Single gas woktop - Miele or gaggenau. Bought Gagg on closeout. Really wanted one gas burner with high BTU for wok cooking etc. Refrigerator - Wanted Dual compressor. And a lot of control on the produce bins. We eat a lot of varieties of vegetables and I wanted to be able to control the moisture levels and the temperature. Decided on 30in counterdepth all fridge by Miele. Counterdepth keeps things visible and avoid science experiments in the fridge. Also liked Liebherr and the SZ with the glass door. Separate Freezer drawer by SZ. I wanted a bit of counter next to the fridge as a landing zone and went with a freezer drawer. Microwave - Preferred a good quality separate unit on a shelf as this is the appliance that is used most and often needs replacement before others. Panasonic with invertor. Warming drawer - Preferred one with low temps for bread proofing and moisture control to keep crisp foods warm and crisp. GE profile warming drawer from CL (The manual and functions are identical to Monogram) Ovens - I am never going to cook a massive turkey. But really wanted a steam convection. Went with 24in Gagg Combi steam and 27in Gagg convection. Dishwasher - Miele La Perla on closeout. Wanted the better drying that the models that automatically open the door provide. Also a smaller single second dishwahser by Fisher Paykel. Hood - Wanted a really high CFM that is not too loud. Cook a lot of "fragrant" ethnic food and have cooks with hearing issues. Abakka roof mounted 1600 CFM blower with the quiet kit. The hood has baffles that can be popped off and tossed into the dishwasher.

I have a very similar space and tried and tried as you are to locate the sink and stove on the same run and it just couldn't happen without cramping and majorly sacrificing function. We ended up with our main and only sink in the island. I was hesitant I really was but it really has allowed effecient use of space and keeps the auxiliary traffic out. We have 2 boys and use our island all the time for all sorts of things - snacks, wrapping presents, homework. Having the sink in there has not impeded any of those things. I know you said you really didn't want to do that but to sacrifice functionality to avoid it you might want to really think hard on it before you get too far. On the other hand if you can squeeze more length in maybe you can do it - but then I'd want a prep sink on the island, a water source there somewhere even if it's a smaller one. Our island is 9' long and has room for 4 stools on the long end and one on the short side. It houses the sink, dw, trash and a 4 drawer stack. We have a decent over hang, about 16" which makes seating comfortable. I like green designs - our MW is right by the fridge and that works well and usually those 2 appliances are used right in succession - no crossing zones to get to them. Good luck! It is so tough to get everything just so! If only I'd have analyzed the rest of the house as much as the kitchen! ;O

1) Regarding the screws.... For the drawer faces: Pocket holes should be drilled into the face frames if they must be attached permanently vs using the hardware to keep them on. The pocket holes should have covers attached (either the plastic or wood options). I personally prefer if they are removable via removal of the hardware so they can be changed out or refaced in the future & since you're going the custom route I'd defiantly want it! Inside the cabinets: A pilot hole should be drilled prior to screw if the wood hardness requires it & the screw counter sunk (slightly below the side walls) with or without plastic caps (depending on the company). Cabinet/Wall Brace:Are all the cabinets secured to the wall with simple screws?? I was really surprised to see this! How are they making sure the bases are secured to studs & not just drilled through into the gypsum board? In the past I've seen cabinet makers use a base board across the run anchored into wall studs and the bases are then secured to the board. Holes: The hole that will be exposed once the dishwasher is installed needs to be fixed. The fridge cabinet with the double screws and the blank hole is ridiculous...whomever was doing the install rushed and didn't care about screw placement or taking the time to properly aline things before drilling. Again= Custom built should = quality control and care! Yes there are MUCH better ways of finding the studs...even just using your knuckles to knock on the wall can get you close enough that a max of 2 holes might need drilled if you miss it the first time....again, sloppy work installing. The range microwave: Did they know that cabinet was going to support a microwave/hood? I'd ask about the install and max weight support. I don't believe 2 screws is enough to hold it (especially if they only screwed it into the wall & not a support board!) but don't know...I'd just hate to have it come crashing down a year from now! *You need to make sure the cabinet makers know that screw placement & finish result is important to you and you expect no screws will be felt or seen once the install is complete. 2) Shims: Yes, it's totally normal for wood shims to be left under the cabinets. Floors aren't completely level and in a new build the house will settle over time and the floor will change so it's important that the cabinets can be leveled. This is why RTA cabinets like IKEA have adjustable feet on the base that's hidden with a toe kick. Custom cabinet makers use wood shims to level on site during install and those can then be removed or added to as time goes on and any changes are required to keep the cabinets level. 3) Fixture & Outlet Holes: Yes, it's common to have large square pre-cut from the backs before install as plumbing is different for every job & since fixtures change depending on the choices made in faucet, garbage disposal, dishwasher lines, etc they can't make exact cuts. Again, this is why a lot of RTA cabinets are backless and if the backing is ordered it must be cut by the installer to fit the existing fixture spaces. HOWEVER- I totally agree with your being upset about the range plug placement and their solution to cut another hole into the side of the custom cabinet boxes. Although- I'm not entirely sure I understand correctly if it had to go through another base to reach the outlet or just the base of that unit vs the back side where a hole was already cut? I don't know what another solution would have been.... 4) Cabinet Face Gaps: Are you doing a full overlay with the new build as well? I completely agree that the gap's should be consistent and you definitely shouldn't be able to see the contents of the drawers! If the cabinets are full overlay why is the frame not hiding the contents? If they are custom inset then I'd be very picky about how it all lines up since this is a fine craft that requires skill & time to get right (hence the excessive cost)...plus wood swells & contracts so they need to fit properly with a slight consistent gap after install.