If the existing 30" openings feel comfortable to you, then I think you should go with 30" to match them. All of my doors are 30" and feel comfortable to me, and that's what I did for the new bathroom door (pocket door). 28 inches is a little cozy and you should make it bigger while you have the chance. Joe

The screen is 28" wide, up against an extra tiled 12" from the kind of 45-degree-angled wall inside the shower where we have the plumbing. It could be the whole way to the wall, no problem, if we had put the shower valve somewhere else. So in total, the opening at the end of the screen is 40" away from the showerhead (which aims away from it). You really want the showerhead to be aimed *away* from the opening, *especially* if you're not going to have a door. There's someone here (I'm sorry I'm blanking) who has a full-height one. Wrt leaking from under the screen, all you need to do, acc. to the glass folks who installed our half-height one, is to rake the curb a bit (not much at all) so that it is angled to drain into the shower rather than pool or worse, drain out. MAKE SURE your tile guy does that, or whoever is doing the shower pan. Mine had to come back, pry up a couple of rows of installed and grouted tiles, and set them correctly. Well, it's not *all* you have to do, in all cases--as I'd said, our screen is not where the shower is aimed--it's aimed back toward the full wall, so there won't be water hitting it full force directly--it will only be spray bouncing off us. Following our installers advice, we don't have any silicone under ours--there's a tiny opening that is the thickness (maybe 1/16") of the bracket. Since I haven't yet tried it, I can't say that that was definitively the best idea--they could be misleading me--but if you search under "frameless shower" here, you should get some threads about what kinds of glass installations other folks have here. We also got another showerhead installed that happens to be right in front of the opening--if we use that, for now, we'll put up a curtain. If we don't like that, we'll eventually get a glass door--we were told that the 26-1/2" opening is wide enough for a frameless door (and we already put the blocking for a door inside the wall, just in case--you might want to do that too, in case you change your mind). I am SO dying to shower in our new bath--all that's left is the electrician, and he was supposed to come by yesterday to see what he needed in the way of cans and outlets etc. to finish the job, but of course...

These openers are limited by the design of the open and close limit assembly. Even adding an additional extension would not help you. Genie uses a simpler limit control which may be the answer to your problem. Unfortunately it involves replacing the opener.

I have a similar problem. Actually I've solved it in theory but haven't gotten around to implementing it yet. My cabinet installer said that my current hinges are European style hinges set to open 105 degrees, but I need to find some made to open 90 degrees. He suggested Louis & Company. I also posted on GW and several people suggested a transom chain, with some very nice pix of a tiny chain attached at one end to the inside cabinet and inside door at the other end, in very unobtrusive top shelves. Several other people suggested simply using the nearly-invisible silicone bumper pads that are on the inside of the doors, but that's my last resort on a highly visible range hood and outside cabinet door. One of these days I'm going to google Louis & Company hinges and/or ask for transom chains at HD (just so that I can get blank stares above orange aprons in return), in my copious spare time. Anyway, ask your cabinet people for the brand of their hinges. I'm sorry, I don't know how to save my own threads, but search "transom chain" or "truly invisible" and my name. HTH.