Have had same problem. It's been a few years, ended up just putting more muscle on it. My hex wrench has small red handle, VH sent it to me years ago when I replaced a motor (Eklind 51905). the handle helps, but there's a fair amount of twist when I put more torque on it. A larger handle with more rigid design might solve the problem (Snap-on?). If you can get a drop of 3-in-one oil on the nut that could help. Plan B might be to grip the hex with some vice grips. When I got it off I oiled it to see if that would help the next time.

Ventahood has redesigned their cage to overcome this issue... no screws just a slide in. If you are under warranty and complain to them i wonder if they will send you the new assembly.

It gets very hot and then cool quickly in that area and the metal composition of screw vs the assembly is different so it is understandable why it can seize. Use a bit of lubrication to assisst you in unscrewing use force but not too much force you don't want to strip the head.

p.s how do you guys like the cleaning aspect of the magic lung? Easy, hard, very hard? smells linger on or...?

Cleaning: Not very hard but I have nothing to compare it to other than an old Jenn-Air many years ago that got disgusting. Every few months remove box and put in lower DW rack.Put the SS shield on top rack. The paint came off the box after a few years so just ordered another one. I clean the cages once every couple of years. I have no idea if that does anything for performance. Do the interior once a year or so with teflon pan scrubbie and soapy water, then a rinse. We've IR and regular lamps so have to clean around those. Never had any issues with smells. Remember well when I worked in restaurants hood cleaning when we all stood on the ranges and cleaned behind the baffles. Whoever thinks baffles remove grease has never done that.

@teachmkt: Nods agreed most commercial kitchens i have worked in had a contractor to clean the whole hood and vents once a month.

I am going to get the vah magic lung and since i will be doing the cleaning i wanted seasoned user's opinons.

thanks for the feedback.

I don't want to admit how long it's been since I've cleaned mine. Yikes ... you guys have me thinking it's a definite to do this week.

I can't say it's my favourite chore (but what chore is).

I didn't know you could put it in the dishwasher. Does it really come out ok that way?

I do really like the Vent a Hood though. Although it sounds like a jet plane so I'm always glad to turn it off.

@livebetter: It is very important you schedule yearly or bi-yearly cleanups of the vent.

If you don't clean it and you are a regular cook not only the performance may decrease but it becomes somewhat of a safety issue (fire hazard).

I know commercial kitchens work continously so its not the same thing but i think residentials surpisingly get very dingy depending on what you cook and cleanup is one of my primary concerns as the smells linger on if you don't clean up the grease traps.

I am going to be new with vah so no comment on that but my current and all previous hoods i would do thorough washing inside out atleast once a year.

Thanks for the tips, I will try a lubricant and a new hex wrench. As for cleaning, I find it pretty easily actually. Wipe everything down, and on the cages i use a toothbrush like my manual suggests. Once you get a system going, it takes no time at all.

If the stuck screw is stuck due to rust, buy some "PB Blaster" at your nearest automotive parts store supplying the trade. "Kroil" would be another option, but is not usually available locally.

I'm not sure what the configuration is of the "hex wrench" that doesn't work, but the scope of available wrench styles for different purposes is vast, so a configuration providing more leverage should exist. Repeat the following mantra (even if, in the extreme limit, it is dubious): "One cannot have too many tools."

And if this is a machine screw or sheet metal screw that rusted, replace it with a stainless steel equivalent. Most significant hardware stores will have shelves of containers of small quantity hardware.

If the sheet metal that it was screwed into rusted, put some NeverSeize (or equivalent) on the new screw when installing it.

kas

Are you sure you are turning it the correct direction?

It's probably a reverse thread!

+1 on PB Blaster.

Actually, Bostik spells the anti-seize product I had in mind Never-Seez.

kas

Don't replace the set screw with stainless. Stainless steel is softer than the hardened steel screw that's in in there now. The threads will distort and if you ever need to get it out you may have to drill it out. Replace the origional screw with the same hardened steel screw type if the hex scocket or threads are damaged. Do use an anti sieze compound on the screw, it is available at any auto parts store.

They really use a special hardened steel screw? That would be unusual. If true, I stand corrected assuming it is used for some reason.

Stainless steel fasteners are actually pretty hard, but not necessarily strong, depending on manufacturing source and specification. Try drilling into one sometime.

kas

Not special, all steel socket head set screws are hardened to rockwell "C" 45-53. Yes, I agree stainless is really hard on drill bits. most SS set screws are type 316 stainless steel which can not be hardened.

I guess I missed the "set" part. This screw has to dig into some part to keep the squirrel cage assembly from wandering?

kas

It's been a while since I took the blower wheels off mine. IIRC, the shaft is flattened on one side so that you aren't 'setting' the screw against just a round shaft.

I believe I had to buy a longer hex key in order to reach the set screw. I mostly have the kind that fold up in a handle like a Swiss army knife, but that wasn't long enough. Ideally, I'd have gone for the kind with a tee handle but I don't think that's what I found when I looked.

I have my doubts that one's rusted in place- it's likely just going to take a little oomph to get it moving. I wouldn't use pliers instead- get the right tool.

Good luck.