I did the whole automated rain water thing for a year before I had to rip it all out because of moving to temporary house. I did learn that the best spray heads were the ones that send out 8 streams water in a circular direction and each head can be adjusted for optimal flow. On 15 gallon pots and smaller 1 spray head was plenty but needed to be adjusted depending on how big the pot was. On my big 30 gallon pots I used 3 spray heads and dialed them back to achieve the desired wetting pattern. I got a 2.5 hp pump to run it and it did fine for 10 plants at a time. My timer was set up on 3 zones, 10 plants at a time. I had to run the discharge pressure at 40-50 psi to get enough flow to the plants. To achieve the desired pressure I had to install circulation line with a valve coming of the discharge back to the rain tank and adjust the valve position to get 40-50 psi going to the plants. After toying with it a while and getting all the spray heads adjusted properly it was very nice!!!!!!!! I will never go back to hand watering again once our new house is built and every things automated again. One suggestion is to have a manifold with a 200 micron screen/filter for every zone. I had to clean the screens once every couple months with a tooth brush. I hand watered 50 something plants every day for several years and I'm here to tell you that automation is the way to go!!! I will never look back. Stay away from drip. Rain water is too dirty and you will have nothing but problems with drip. 1/2 inch Polly tube and the little 1/8 hose to a spray head that adjusts flow on a stick is the only way to go. The spray heads need to be the ones that send 8 individual streams. I can't stress that enough as all the other fan heads and bubbler heads clog up all the time.

Azinoh "Maybe we had different download sites?" That's possible. I downloaded directly from www.avast.com. If you did not, who knows what you actually downloaded. Could possibly have something to do with your very slow download also. ========================== Sunday 04-13: My version is 2014.9.0.2013 and now there is a new; 2014.9.0.2016. Well updating from the interface update just didn't seem to go so I went to the Avast.com site to download the dot.exe file. Clicking on download takes you to CNET. I now realize my original download was therefore thru CNET. So much for getting Avast from Avast. From Google it would seem cnet hasn't got the best of reputations any more in fact lots of complaints about extra programs foisted off on ya. Guess so. I went to File Hippo for the 84.55M file. Then googled that and there seems to be problems with the 2014.9.0.2016 version. So I'll skip it for now. Maybe let it age a bit. FH seems to have a good rep but most mssgs I found about them were several years old.

From the 2nd switch you only need two conductors, a hot and a neutral, going to the light. The hot will come from the "common" terminal on the switch. No reason to replace the cable, just leave the 3rd wire disconnected. Whomever wired it to begin with probably either had extra 14/3 around, or wanted flexibility, for example to power a fan and a light separately.

Is there a "trick" to wiring the recessed can? I took the "in" and "out" romex wires and pretwisted them. Then I took the very small recessed can wire and somewhat twisted it around the pre-twisted romex. But when tightening the wire nut around everything, several times the recessed can wire pushed out, and one time, when I pulled on it, it pulled out. Should it be done this way? I was thinking may be it could be better if I took a pigtail off the romex and just used a small wire nut to hold together the recessed can wire and the pigtail? Is this a better way? It seems it holds better when just one romex wire and the recessed can wire are held together with a small blue wire nut.