need help cutting square feet
houseinma
12 years ago
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my2sons
12 years agoRelated Discussions
Help! Cost cutting needed
Comments (11)Let me tell you how we cut costs. We were getting bids from GC's around $1,000,000 .... which frankly was a shock. We did a lot of research and found the reason for these large numbers. First, understand we have concrete folks in our family and a great friend who is the best mason in my area. So, we already knew what those costs were. When we compared the mason costs from these GC's to what our mason was telling us it would cost we were shocked. The GC's had their bid for masonry around $125k, our mason was telling us that it would be around $45k. Same deal with concrete. So we assumed the GC's were massively marking up. What we did. We found a great local GC who has a good reputation for honest hard work in framing, roofing. We offered him a flat fee to be the "project coordinator", gave him the work for framing, finish and roofing and then got our own bids for everything else. We were able to get the cost down to just under $700k***. Our "project coordinator" vetted our subs to make sure they were good, but we had already used our electrician for other work so we already trusted them, we knew our mason and concrete guys very well so the only areas we were unsure of were plumbing, hvac, etc and we used references to find them. The only area where we screwed up badly was hiring a BAD excavator, we did this before we even found our project coordinator as we had a complete wooded lot and needed trees cleared to get a feel for where the house would go. We got burnt on that deal, but got a new excavator via a reference from our mason and have been very happy ever since. We are about 2 months away from completion. :) *** the "just under $700k would have been closer to $600k without the excavator issues....See More2500 square feet - open to ideas
Comments (7)I agree with lzerarc on this one. Take it from someone who has already been down the road you're traveling. Sit down and figure out what size rooms (and what rooms) fit your needs based on your family size and how long you plan to stay in the house. This will tell you how many square feet you need. Then think about how you want the layout in general terms (i.e. split bedroom plan, open family room/kitchen area, mudroom, stair placement, etc). At that point you have a better set of criteria to go by when searching for plans. You will be able to filter through them and decide if its a 'no', 'yes' or 'maybe' in about 10 seconds. As you're deciding what size rooms you need, some things to consider are: -What size beds are the bedrooms able to accomodate--kids may be in a twin now, but will you want to put a queen in there later? You will need to ensure there is room for the extra length & width of a queen plus at least 3' walkways on the sides and end of the bed. The vast majority of plans spec small bedrooms that will realistically only accomodate a twin bed, a nightstand & dresser for all but the master. 12x14 is about the minimum if you want to put a queen bed in and not have the room look completely dominated by the bed. -When figuring your family room size, be sure to remember to include the walkway/walkthru area where no furniture can be placed-again at least 3' wide. -Do you need a breakfast room AND a dining room in addition to the island bar in the kitchen? Many plans have that breakfast room, but it's an easy place to lose square footage. You can take your breakfast and lunch at the island bar & use the dining room for dinner every night. Besides, doesn't the dining room deserve to be used more than just on holidays? -Is the laundry room big enough? -Are there any exterior focal points on your lot that you want to take advantage of with large windows? -Do you have multiple cooks in the kitchen at one time?--if yes, a kitchen on the larger side is a good idea. -What are your storage options--cubbies, closets, pantrys, etc. Don't forget the area under the stairs--I mean all the way under the stairs if they're switchback or U-shaped--that space under the landing is sitting there unused when it could be holding some of your less used items. -Check and double check the garage size (width and depth) and interior layout/placement of steps into the house in relation to the placement of the cars. Do not trust that the garage specced on the plans is large enough to accomodate your cars (there's a thread on GW about just this in the past weeks). Think about how you're going to use the garage--will there be an extra refrigerator and/or freezer placed out there, are you wanting to store other items in it like bikes & tools & lawnmower, what size are your cars and if you drive more compact cars today will that always be the case, can you open your car's back hatch with the garage door closed, is there anough space to walk all around the cars when they're both in the garage with the door closed, can you fully open your car doors when a 2nd car is in the garage? -Once you get around 2500sq ft, most designers/architects start adding extra rooms that you often don't need vs. making your main rooms bigger (i.e. keeping room, hearth room, sun room, etc). Look to see if you can cut that square footage or incoporate it into other rooms. Some other sites to check: www.SouthernLivingHouseplans.com www.johntee.com (Similar to Betz, Tee typically uses space very efficiently) www.DonGardner.com www.HousePlans.com www.ePlans.com www.thehousedesigners.com www.coolhouseplans.com Some plans to check out: http://www.frankbetz.com/homeplans/plan_info.html?pn=3959 (Very efficient use of space--imagine the exterior in a more colonial style) http://www.frankbetz.com/homeplans/plan_info.html?pn=1130 http://www.dongardner.com/plan_details.aspx?pid=2955 http://www.thehousedesigners.com/plan/shenandoah-2000/ http://www.thehousedesigners.com/plan/waterford-place-7903/ http://southernlivinghouseplans.com/plans/SL1746 http://www.garrellassociates.com/floorplans/pearson http://store.johntee.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=JT&Product_Code=66&Category_Code=2500-3000 http://store.johntee.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=JT&Product_Code=1003&Category_Code=2500-3000 Hope this helps...Happy House Hunting!!...See Morehow much square feet of granite do I need for this layout ?
Comments (15)Thankyou all for your replies and sorry for the delay in answerinf. I could not find my thread and thought I did not post it after preview! I will try to answer the questions raised. sue_ct: > What is that 42 x 24 L shape in the second section and is there any counter there ? There is no counter there,that is where the fridge goes. The counter in the bottom L starts from below the range so its 72" x 55 inches, with a standard countertop depth. >Is any backsplash included? I dont know, I did not ask for one, as I am probably going with tile. But if they included it -no one has specidied it in their bid > Are you including granite around the outside corner of the 55x72 area where the brackets are? That would be considered a radius corner. Yes its included, but it is not a curved corner. This one was not a problem, as all the ppl I talked to said its the same to them if its a curved corner or rounded. And its considered a radius corner only if there is an arc with a radius. > The area past the range - is that one unbroken piece of granite from the interior edge of L over the cabinets to the outside of the "L" with the overhang, or is there a wall or partition of some type that would make that two pieces? One unbroken piece of granite. No wall, just the overhanf. > I also don't know how to figure those corner pieces, but they may be done differently by different fabricators. In addition, they are usually considered radius cuts, I think, and there is an extra charge per radius cut, also. I did not ask for minimal seams. All of them seem to have assumed that. >Are they all charging for the same edge with same number of linear feet of finished edging? No idea. I send them the layout and they send me a number back. Not more specific thant that. > Do you want the most unbroken installation with the least seams possible or are you willing to piece it all from the smallest number of slabs to get the lowest number of square feet needed, the least waste and the best price for that type of granite? I think the price is probably the most important thing for me here.I dont mind having seams as long as they are well done. >Try getting some quotes by email, be sure to specify cutouts, overhangs, type of edge, backasplash or no backplash and ask for an idea of how many seams would be required. That is a helpful suggestion. I will be sure to specify all that going forward along with sending them my la I do look at everything with a microscope and like to see how my hard earned money is being spent. I am unfortunately not as trusting as you are on these matters. I prefer to see exactly why they have come up with the numbers and really dislike being "sold" to. I can bet you each of those fabricators will do that for whatever service THEY are buying! I just want them to be straightforward. I dont see what it should be so difficult. I am not going to be micro calculating if they do by square feet or by slab. But since I last posted, the max variation in pricing has been a 100% (!) between the average and the higher end quotes for the same kitchen, for the same granite. I have two sink cutouts and the simplest edge they can make and no backsplash. This variation is very disturbing - because either all the average priced guys are crap or the higher end guys are just asking for whatever and seeing if I bite. :( sherilynn: I think that the fabricator that deals with HD around here does not deal with homwowners directly. So I am out of luck on that one. I will however be checking out Costco. I dont know how good they are. The problem is I see good reviews and bad reviews and references dont mean much because nobody will give you bad references and your job could be the one that they mess up. I have been reading the granite tales on this forum and its made me quite apprehensive. I am also considering some of those one man shows, who have worked with stone for donkeys years without newer fancier machines. I figure they could use my business and I could use their hard earned skill. azstoneconsulting: I definitely agree that the best price does not mean the best deal. But neither does the most expensive mean that you will get a good deal. There seems to be no substitute to educating oneself. How do I know what good quality is if I am a lay person ? Thanks all for replying Ani...See MoreMy miter saw isn't cutting square anymore - help!
Comments (8)The saw brand might shed some light on the problem. First, check the fence/table for any chips that might have gotten stuck under the fence and keep the boards from touching the fence. Also make sure there is no play in the motor and arm and that the blade is mounted securely. Double check the detent setting on 0, making sure there is no movement. Then check the blade for square to the fence----then rotate the blade 90 degrees and recheck for square---repeat for a total of three turns---that makes sure the blade is not warped. If it is still out, check the adjustment that allows for moving the blade. If none of those are a problem, then you need to adjust either the fence or the arm. Pick whichever adjustment is easiest....See Moreathensmomof3
12 years agocrazy_in_mason
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