First, DON'T install a ventless fireplace!!! Even though the MFG.s will tell you the exhaust fumes are OK, do you really want to breathe them? Many people end up with Major Headaches and chronic breathing issues. Does it sound like a good idea to breathe burnt exhaust gasses? B type flue(vent) pipes are dual thickness pipes. A pipe inside another pipe, suitable for use at 1" or more to flammable materials. Outer casing pipe is sealed and will not conduct air. D (Direct Vent) type flue(vent) pipes are also dual layers but they are capable of exhausting burnt gas through the inner pipe and importing exterior(outside) combustion air for burning. Think of a straw inside a larger straw. Inside straw blowing, outside straw sucking outside air for combustion. A fan is usually used to help exhaust the burnt gasses. Details below: B-Vent (Natural Vent) gas fireplaces are designed primarily for decorative use. Generally they produce a larger and more realistic yellow flame. B-vent fireplaces are sometimes available without a glass window, so many homeowners are attracted to this design because of the open, realistic flame effect; some models do have a glass window so the existence of a window on a fireplace does not define its product classification. Natural vent gas fireplaces use room air for combustion and vent fumes through a vent or chimney that must terminate vertically above the roof line. The key to determining whether a B-vent fireplace will meet your heating needs is to check the manufacturer's listed efficiency rating (gas consumed x efficiency = heat output). While efficient, heater-rated B-vent fireplaces do exist, many lower quality "builder grade" fireplaces have no efficiency rating and, therefore, will not supply substantial heat. In fact, this category of fireplace will often use the greatest amount of gas at the lowest range of efficiencies. If you live in a warmer climate where you want the aesthetics of a fire without much heat, this may be the appliance for you. Likewise, bedrooms and smaller rooms may be a good candidate for a b-vent fireplace, but please check building codes to see if this class of fireplace is approved in your locality or for installation in the room where you'd like to use it. Local/national codes in some areas prohibit the use of b-vent rated appliances, especially in colder climates. Be aware that very "air tight" houses can cause performance problems with b-vent rated appliances, so please consult an experienced fireplace installer who can advise you on the proper installation and use you are considering. Direct Vent Fireplaces offer the most features with respect to gas consumption, efficiency ratings and venting options. A direct vent fireplace will always have a glass window because these fireplaces are sealed systems using a double walled venting system. Combustion air enters the appliance via one section of pipe while fumes and moisture are vented through the other pipe. Most often, a double wall "pipe within a pipe" system is used. Subject to each model's requirements for distance and offsets, direct vent fireplace venting may be terminated either horizontally or vertically. Efficiency rating will average 65% to 84%, similar to ratings on gas furnaces. Keep in mind that these appliances must "waste" some of the heat produced to create a draft of rising warm air to evacuate the fumes produced without aid of a forced air exhaust system. Think of direct vent fireplaces as a decorative furnace: the beauty of a realistic flame with high efficiency. This appliance is great for primary or supplental heating and for emergency backup heating as most work without aid of electricity. Because this is a sealed system that uses outside air for combustion, direct vent fireplaces are usually the favored choice among those in the fireplace industry because of their greater efficiency and exceptionally reliable performance. Hope this info helps, I am a General Contractor. Renron

If you want to eliminate the alcove altogether, you might consider very carefully cutting away the alcove, sanding the bottom cut edges, and either staining it to match the cabinets or re-installing the bottom of the alcove over the bottom of the cabinet above (thus utilizing the finished outside bottom of the alcove). It looks like you have full-height finished end panels b/w the oven cabinet & MW/alcove cabinet and b/w the refrigerator & MW/alcove cab...so the sides may not be an issue either if you remove the alcove. You may have to patch a couple of screw holes, but the finished panel should still be there. Another option would be to reduce the height of the alcove. Very carefully cut out the bottom of the alcove, shorten the height of the alcove sides and re-install the bottom of the alcove at the higher height. Or, reduce the depth of the alcove by very carefully cutting out the bottom and the sides. Trim the sides & bottom to a shallower depth (trim from the back) and re-installing the sides & backs at the new depth (and height, if you like...see previous paragraph).

NKBA Recommendations: Recommended: In a seating area where no traffic passes behind a seated diner, allow 32" of clearance from the counter/table edge to any wall or other obstruction behind the seating area. a. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 36" to edge past. b. If traffic passes behind the seated diner, allow at least 44" to walk past. Here is a link that might be useful: NKBA Guidelines

What do you people cook in your ovens? Bowling balls? Heh heh. You must be pulling out 30lb turkeys daily if the weight of your pans is that huge of a concern. I only cook turkeys once a year (for which my family thanks me) and only on the big green egg, so we decided on a range with two ovens and a warming cabinet because of the space we gained as well as the look. Our ovens have drawers below them so they aren't on the floor and when I do use them I am able to safely open and check the food without being in danger of burning my nose. We had wall ovens in the old house and hated them, as well as the gas cook top, which IMO is just a horrific waste of space. Now in our new house we have that same crappy set up and will be yanking it out as soon as possible. But we will still only cook turkeys rarely. As a pure ergonomics issue though, it is always better to lift up verses lift from chest level so for me....I just don't get why people put the stove up on the wall. Much like the drawer microwave...it just feels unsafe. And ummm they are ugly. Ok IMO but really, I hate big electronics and plastic in the middle of a wall. (I feel the same way about big screen tvs).