We all seem to be repeating the exact same thing to each other. Yes I am perfectly aware the difference between a PC BOARD, which to me is and always has been a weak spot on ANY stove that has them, VS a "light bulb" and "ignitor" and a few various items that happen to have electricity running through them. Seems as though I have explained this as good as I possibly can about 5 times now. My gripe is with the PC BOARDS, they fail quite often and are expensive to replace. The worst ones are the ones on back of the stove and when you boil big pots of water on the back burners you gets lots of moisture on them. NXR has nothing like this, neither does the Blue Star which is one of the many things I liked about both of them. They are a good mix of commercial & home range design. Yes the Blue Star does have a very nice broiler, so does the NXR. Nice infrared 1700 degree broiler, it glows bright orange almost turning yellowish so has to be at least 1700+. The 15,000 BTU double stack burners on the NXR fit my needs perfectly, I have yet to find myself wanting for more BTU's. I use mostly cast iron and a 14X23 steel griddle for cooking, someone mentioned "and zero woks" oddly enough I use my hand hammered 16" Wok all the time, just put on the Wok ring that cost a whooping $3 and it works perfectly. Depending on what I am cooking in the cast iron and griddle I almost always turn the burner on very low a few minutes prior to cooking while I get things prepared and when I start cooking the pan is hot as I ever could possibly want it. The ONLY time I really use the 15,000 BTU's to their fullest is when I use the Wok and on the Wok ring it gets hot as hell fast on full blast. Boiling a big pot of water for pasta, I just put the pot on the back burner, add my salt, put the lid on it and get my pasta & sauce ready. Long before I am ever done with that the water is boiling away. I really just do not have a need for burners putting out any more heat than what these do, using the cookware that I use in the manner I use them. 60 seconds here & there make zero difference to me. I do however like having all burners the same and fully adjustable from super low simmer up to 15,000btu Blue Star was on our list of possible stoves, however the much higher price along with all the bad reviews we saw from people that had nothing good to say about them steered us away from them. Only one with more bad reviews than Blue Star was Viking. I have only seen one bad review of an NXR and that one was clearly due to bad shipping, had nothing to do with the stove itself. Now after owning this one for awhile and using it daily if someone were to say I will trade you my Wolf/Viking/Thermadore/Blue Star etc straight across I would decline. I am perfectly satisfied with this stove in every way and for the price it was literally a steal. If being a fully satisfied customer stating fact somehow makes me a "fanboy" (term used by adolescent children) then I wear that moniker proudly.

I just ordered the basic RCS 36' it's going to take 3-4 weeks before I receive it so I can't say for sure that the heated door issue has been fixed, but I was told by several salespeople as well as a BS expert that the heat issue on the door has been addressed in the newer models. The doors now have double insulation, and you can see that on the double lined vents in the door. I'm really hoping that this is the case as I have a small child a hot oven door--no matter what oven--is a problem. I will update this if it turns out that the issue hasn't been addressed, but I trust what I have been told verbally and don't think I'll need to update this post.

I have owned an RNB 30" range for about 13 years. I never regretted it. 2 18k burners, 1-15k and and 1-9k. I have never had to call a repair man, but I have had to fix a few things. The only reason and the best reason to get a Bluestar is the open burner, which is the best burner in anything that I have seen short of a professional range. I am a foodie and I really dislike cooking on every other residential stove...Vikings (their open burner is horrible), many sealed versions from KitchenAid to Dacor. I haven't cooked on wolf, but at the time all they had was sealed burners and I hate the quality and dispersion of sealed flames. Here are my issues with BlueStar 1. I just fixed a noisy fan...see my post on that on my profile. This has nagged me for many years and I just fixed it. 2. Learn how to change an ignitor...and buy a fistful of them! What happens is boilovers come in contact with the ignitor and it ends up cracking the now-hot ignitor. the spark will leak to the burner below the flame holes and not ignite the gas at ignitor tip.. I think I have changed about 7 of them over the years. It is really easy. The problem is the ceramic in the ignitor is "cupped" and collects boilover water instead of being "peaked", which would shed water. I have experimented with putting silicone caulk in the cup before installing and that does help, but over time it just burns out. Oh, ditch the ignitor screws that come with the range and replace them with stainless steel found at most hardware store. The regular machine screws end up rusting and I ended up breaking an old screw off in the burner and I had to buy a new burner (expensive!). My next project is to find a cheap aftermarket ignitor and fab it to work...standby on that. 3. My door did get stuck. I used a little extra force to "pursuade" it open and it slightly bent the mounting hinge. I have not replaced it nor have I asked for replacement. It still closes pretty good and gets up to temperature fine. The key to keeping the door working well is to periodically put a little dab of axel grease (90w) on the contact surface and it will keep it moving smooth. But since mine is well-broke-in...I haven't done that in at least a year. Time to go do it now I suppose. 4. I needed to replace the electronic control module. It is a standard component and I believe compatible/identical with the Wolf module. It wasn't expensive and not difficult for me to replace, but what is easy for my probably isn't for another. I can't remember the symptom, but I either had no cooktop spark, or the spark sensor wouldn't turn off. 5. The last thing that is a little annoying is that during oven warm-up or during broiler use, a simultaneous cooktop flame changes shape/quality and it looses contact with the ignitor/flame sensor. That, in turn, causes the ignitors to stark clicking away. It goes away when the the warmup is done. Subsequent oven burner ignitions have no effect on the cooktop flames. I have no idea what causes this. I use natural gas. That is about it. The way I look at Bluestar is that they can be very Ferrari-like. Most components are very strong, some are finicky, but overall, it will give a performance like no other.

Stevep2005: My 1.5 year old propane RCS shows no signs of rust yet. The burners are porcelain coated the same as the grates. Is that also true of your 11 year old Bluestar? Kendrah: My understanding is that the three, currently shipping, open-burner Bluestar range lines (RCS, RNB, and Platinum) all now share the same fundamental internal chassis design and parts list. For example, the top burner section of the RCS, RNB and Platinum 30" ranges are now identical in every way except for the replaceable burner heads and gas orifices that determine the BTU output of each burner. Likewise the internal oven parts and interiors are identical except for the oven burner of the Platinum which uses a back wall, European, convection-only ring burner instead of the more traditional under floor burner used in the RCS and RNB. Also, some of the exterior sheet metal parts (e.g. plate setter bull nose, kick panel, etc.) have differences that visually distinguish the different model lines. There may be other differences, but that is the basic idea. The convection fan is definitely audible but not obnoxious. It is about half of the loudness of my Zephyr Napoli hood at its lowest setting. I just measured the sound output of the the convection fan in my 30" RCS with two different sound level meter apps on my iPhone, and both read it at approximately 10 dBa above the ambient noise level in my kitchen (30 dBa with fan off, 40 dBa with fan on). There is no cooling fan in the Bluestar ranges since they do not have any electronics that would need cooling. The only electronics in the range is the igniter spark module for the top burners, which is designed to work without the need for fan cooling. When you go to the appliance store, see if they will actually let you cook stuff on it. If so, bring various sized pans and ingredients so your can get a feel for the way it would perform for the way you like to cook. If you have a round bottom wok (14" is a good size) try it out directly in a burner bowl with ring grate removed. Also, try simmering a small amount of water in your smallest, covered pan (with and without the ring grate rotated in its elevated position). They might even let you use the oven to check for evenness of browning (with and without the convection fan on).