You can't "discipline" a cat as you would a child. That's absurd. They don't think like humans do, nor do they reason like we do. To hit or abuse a cat, will create a very frightened animal that will be traumatized for the rest of its life. It will jump at its own shadow, and be constantly petrified in anticipation of the next beating. Why do that to an animal? People need to understand why cats defecate and urinate around the home when there is a perfectly clean litter box nearby. I have a cat, she's now 15 years old and she's been doing this on and off for the past 15 years. We've read up on this, done research, listened to dog/cat experts and none of their advice worked. I've "figured" this out on my own. Cats in the wild (lions, tigers, etc) "mark" territory using their feces and/or urine. When a domestic cat does the same thing inside its home, it's "marking". The question is: why does the cat mark? My best guess is, to help its owner "find it". Translation: I've found whenever me or my husband (or both of us) leave the home for extended periods of time, our cat will "mark" our home using both her feces and urine, usually on my husband's clothing, or a towel. In her little cat brain, she's leaving us a "scent" for us to find our way home. She doesn't like it when we leave the house, she would prefer we stay at home all the time, so we could pet her all the time, which is how she expects us to spend our time - petting her. In her mind, petting her comes above everything else. So when we're gone from home, she doesn't like that one little bit. And if we're gone long enough, she's figured we're "lost" and we need to find our way back home. So she "marks", using her urine, and/or her feces. Our cat has used both to "mark" for us. So would 'beating' her help? Would "discipline" help? As already mentioned, NO. You have to figure out animal psychology to understand just what makes them tick and what doesn't. Our latest way of handling our cat, is to lessen the amount of time petting her. It's hard for us, because we like to pet her, but this is a last resort for us. I'm sorely tempted to pet her, but I don't want her soiling our home. And rather than have her euthanized, we'd rather have her around a warm home with good food and clean water and live out her life. But with minimal petting, because the more we pet and spoil her, the more she soils our home. We'll see where this latest "theory" takes us. More later.

Mc_hudd, Your dog is never going to get house trained unless you bite the bullet and use the crate. It seems to me that you have a "negative" towards crates, lots of people do. That said, you need to make it a "positive". Also think of the crate as a temporary training tool that is going to help you and your dog with this and other behavior issues. You really do need to completely start all over if you are going to be successful with your dog. He should have been well on his way with this by now and you are starting to miss the prime time of his life for potty training. You really need to commit yourself to a 9 month process, or this problem will lead to others and you will have a bigger mess on your hands. Following is a step by step system that I use for training dogs, it's worked for lots of my clients and me. *Potty training. Dont expect a "quick fix". To be successful with this and other training issues, you really need to crate train. Potty training correctly, is a very important issue for you and your dog. Lots of people get frustrated when their dog does not make progress. Commitment, work, consistency, treats and praise and are key to this issue. Potty training problems are one of the major reasons so many dogs wind up at the pound or back at one. Below I have listed 5 key steps to get your dog potty trained. It a simple procedure that has worked for me and lots of others. But first, some words about crate training. Numerous people have a negative attitude about crate training. They think that the dog will be uncomfortable when crated, or they donÂt like the idea because of what they have read, heard, or just think. If you have a negative attitude, you need to make it a positive. Crate training a newly introduced pup or even an older dog is one of the most important things you will ever do for you and your new dog. Pups and older dogs love the feeling of being closed in when they are in a strange place, especially if there is an old sheet over the crate, leaving the front open so dog can look out. If the crate has to much room for a pup to move around, put something indestructible inside to cut down on space so pup can curl up and feel secure. Leaving soft music playing when you are away pacifies the dog and helps prevent separation anxiety. Dogs of any age kept confined to the crate wonÂt get into trouble when you are away or canÂt supervise. The more room new dogs have to roam around in like a blocked off kitchen or bathroom, the more trouble they can get in to. If you have a pup, the crate should be in your bedroom at night to help the bonding process. It is not realistic to expect a pup, used to being around litter mates and mother to like being left alone, especially at night. They get frightened and confused and make all kinds of noise. If whining is an issue, with the sheet over the crate, gently tap on the top and firmly say "stop". This may need to be repeated a few times, but soon dog will associate your command with the crate tapping. When whining stops, give praise and treats. When you are home, practice the crating experience. A major mistake people make is allowing dog out of the crate when they are home for long periods of time. Then, when they leave, all of a sudden the dog is crated. This can cause major separation anxiety issues because when dog all of a sudden realizes you are gone, it getÂs frightened and may think you are not coming back. Practicing the crating experience and using tons of praise for anything dog does that is right, even laying around doing nothing, reinforces the fact that dog can please you. Always make crating a positive experience. Newly introduced dogs must earn your trust and their unsupervised freedom from the crate. Lots of people try to do this to quickly. This confuses the dog with to much space to roam around in. To be successful with your dog, initially you simply must supervise every second when dog is out of the crate. Dog should have a leash on when out so you can easily grab it and take the dog out when you need to or to keep it out of trouble. Frozen Kongs stuffed with cheese or peanut butter or other toys that donÂt splinter should also be available for dog to chew on. Never leave dog alone with a small chew toy, it could get lodged in the mouth or throat. Keep in mind that dog is looking at you and an alpha dog figure for guidance, not a human. It is your duty to provide this. When dog is house trained and you can start to trust the way things are going, weaning dog from the crate can start usually at around 9-10 months. This also must be done gradually so dog wonÂt get confused. About 10 minute intervals without a leash over the course of about one month or more is essential, depending on how well dog is doing. When dog is good give tons of praise and perhaps a treat. While dog is out of the crate, give lots of praise for anything good done, like drinking water, laying around, chewing on a toy, etc. Anything dog does that is positive should get recognition, this builds confidence and lets dog know that it is able to please you. To get dog used to your absence, leave the house with dog outside of the crate for only a few minutes. Leave the crate door open, return inside and give tons of praise and treats if dog has been good. If dog has gotten into only minor mischief, state your displeasure by firmly stating that dog was bad. Dogs are very visual creatures, only minor scolding and the look of your face should get the point across. Gradually increase time when dog is alone over the course of a month or so depending on how well things go. HOUSE TRAINING **When house training a dog it is very important for you to pick a system and stick with that, rather than switch if things are not going well. Switching will only confuse you and your pup. If you are not having success, you need to back up and start over, only go slower. House training is the first major step dog is going to take in earning your trust, this is simply a must for any indoor dog. If you have an older dog that needs to potty trained, you need to treat dog like a pup. Here is a simple step by step method for potty training that worked for me. It also has worked for others. Keep in mind that *teething *chewing & *potty training, are critical behavior issues, what I refer to as a foundation for other future training. These are also critical steps dog must have under control to earn your trust and eventual freedom from the crate. 1. First you need to realize that not all dogs are the same in this category. Some get it within a week or less, others take longer etc. How you might ask do I know so much about potty training?? I rescued a 4 month old Shepard/Hound last year, my fourth dog in 16 years. (I have two others that were a snap to train). She took about 5 months to potty train. This is an unusually long time, I had to back up numerous times and start over. I dug into her past and found out that she was traumatized by her experience before I came along. She completely missed the prime time of her life to be potty trained. I was really forced to take small baby steps forward after very minimal progress. MOST dogs wonÂt go in their crate. If pup does, remove blankets or padding. This should cure that problem. If problems persist, increase time when no padding is on the floor. 2. You need to start potty training by taking dog out immediately after dog comes out of the crate. Then, gradually increase length of time to regular intervals (gradually increased over the course of one-two months depending on how successful dog is doing). Get dog used to the commands "go poo" and "go pee". These commands should be a must, they are incredibly helpful when the weather is bad. If dog doesn't do anything, that's fine, if it does, give tons of praise and give a treat, preferably one used just for training purposes. Consistency is the key to all of this. Dogs are creatures of habit and depend on a schedule. This is no time to skimp on excessive praise and treats when you are house training. Pup needs to associate yummy treats with doing itÂs thing. Boiled or baked chicken liver is a great training tool, dogs crave it and you really have their attention when you use it. 2. Daily walks at least twice a day (about 20-30 minutes each in the same area) are essential for dogs and getting them house trained. Walking gets things moving, dogs love it and it gives them something to look forward to. Try and feed a pup prior to the walks. Never free feed unless your vet says to. Pups have a high metabolism. Soon after it eats or drinks, it will need to go out. 3. Pups drink huge amounts of water. In theory yours should be able to hold it for (one hour for each month) up to about 9 months. In reality, if a young pup has been playing, it will gulp down lots of water, and just won't be able to hold it for that long. After pup drinks, keep an eye on it. Take it out in about 5-10 minutes and offer it relief. Soon pup will go to the door when it need to go out. 4. Your pup won't be considered house trained unless it has no accidents for at least 9months! Also, as I learned, there is a HUGE difference in a dog that is 4-6 months old and one that is 9-10 months old. They grow inside and out, they mature. Once they reach 9-10 months, their bladders are larger and able to hold it longer. 5. Piddle pads and newspapers should never be used. Some have suggested them, and have had success with them. If you start to use them and dog gets accustomed to doing itÂs thing on them, you could have a very difficult time getting dog to go on grass or even get dog outside. Some people see these pads and papers as a short cut to potty training. It is not. Dogs really need a natural area to relieve themselves. Because dogs are creatures of habit, they will associate the pads and papers with relieving themselves and you may find yourself starting all over in the potty training department, which would make for even more work for all involved. In other words, when was the last time you saw a wolf (dogs closest cousin) use a pee pad? Good luck ! SG

Several comments: 1) unless your cat is old, has diabetes, renal failure or some other degenerative condition, it is unlikely your cat has a urinary tract infection (very rare in young cats, but not unheard of). Most of these cats with bladder issues that are uncomfortable and have blood in the urine have cystitis, but that does not necessarily mean infection, too. The causes of cystitis are many, from stress, diet, stones to 'idiopathic' (i.e.. no obvious identifying cause). It is such a common problem in feline medicine, it has its own name: FIC (Feline idiopathic cystitis), or the old name was FLUDT (Feline lower urinary tract disease). 2) but one things is for sure, your cat is uncomfortable. ONe of the main things that should be considered in any cat that is urinating blood, straining, crying when urinating, or urinating inappropriately is the potential pain issue. Pain relief alone can make many of these cats better. You might ask your vet for some help in this area. 3) Diet is a big area of concern and should always be addressed. Canned food is a FAR better choice for any cat with bladder issues for several reasons. One is canned food is mostly water, so cats that eat only canned food urinate more, and urinating more empties the bladder more, and emptying the bladder more can result in emptying it of irritating substances such as crystals and mucus (often the cause OR result of straining and bleeding). But possibly more importantly is the carbohydrate issue, which many specialists are considering to be a big deal when it comes to 'happy bladders' in cats. Canned food (MOST canned foods, not all) are lower in carbohydrates- significantly lower. Dry foods all have carbs with a minimum of around 22%... But carbs are really not part of a cat's natural diet and a diet of maybe 7% or less would be far better. So I suggest if your cat is amenable to this, feed her a pate canned food only- no dry. Many cats in my practice have been made symptom free by just switching to canned food.. and my own cat was 'cured' this way when my professor in vet school told me to do the same thing despite my arguing with him that I was sure she had a bladder infection (of course I turned out to be wrong). 4) the 'stress' issue is a bit harder to resolve or diagnose, but stress alone can cause cats to pee blood and be uncomfortable. Your cat's loss of another cat, or having fleas, could have stressed her out some... but most of the time, we humans really have no idea what is stressing a cat. But adding more litter boxes, giving meds to reduce stress and using pheromone diffusers can all help resolve or at least improve these kittie's stress. 5) and I mentioned stones up above... sometimes bladder stones can result from either a dietary issue (most common cause), infection (rare in young cats) or a genetic metabolic issue (not much to be done about that last one other than keep cat on canned food). But without an x-ray, this possibility cannot be ruled in or out. I know rads are costly, but they are one time only cost and worth it to diagnose some cats properly. Discuss these things with your vet and see what they say.

I know this post is old, but I thought I'd add a tip, for any one new who finds this during their search. The general rule of thumb is 2 litter boxes PER CAT, I know that is not feasible in all homes, I have 3 cats and can only do 3 litter boxes, I personally do not have room 6 litter boxes they'd be sitting side by side - if I did and that just doesn't seem like it would work as it's supposed to. The reason for this general rule of thumb, is that cats supposedly don't like to potty where other cats go potty!, I can't say that I believe that 100% as my 3 cats use only 2 of the 3 boxes, and they have their "favorite" all boxes have the same litter, and basically the same size the one they don't use is actually the biggest.. But if 2 or all 3 have to go at the same time instead of each one going to their own box, they actually will "wait in line"! for the one using it to get out!. Also cats are extremely finicky when it comes to their litter box, they want a spotless, odorless box or they'll refuse to use it (not all cats, some just don't care, but most do). I have 1 when the boxes are not spotless and odorless of any of their own scents, she will not use it, she will go on the bed, the floor, clothes left on the floor, the couch, any where but any box. So we make sure to clean the box at least 4 times a day, with a complete dumping out into the outside trash once a week, and after we dump it all out, we scrub it clean with dish soap and water, dry it, then I put a thin layer of baking soda (even if my litter already contains it), then the litter. I also have a male cat who is very picky about the brand/type of litter we use, if it is not to his liking he will kick it all out and just go in the box after he empties all the litter - much better than going on our furniture, but to be honest he makes a bigger mess for me to clean up, I'd rather wash bed clothes or a fake leather futon couch/bed off than to always sweep up cat litter. And I agree with getting them outside time - they may be doing it out of being bored they're locked in a room (think of it like this, that room is their jail cell, would you want to be locked in a jail cell 24/7 and only get out 1 time a week if that for ''recreation'' ). I have built a fully enclosed cat kennel for my cats I used an old metal dog kennel and added wire to the top as well, They have 2 decent sized logs in it from a cut down tree to sit on and scratch on, they have one long branch that had broken off my tree in there at an angle, they've got a large cooler that has a hole cut into it and it's full of old clothes, straw, and old foam (from outside furniture), this is their "house" they go in when it's raining or gets a bit cold (I have 1 male who prefers to be outside he's happier outside than inside) they also lay on top of it, they have their own cat nip growing in there as well. They love this kennel! Plus they get fresh air, and the vitamins they desperately need from the sun they are unable to get from being cooped up in a house. No cat should ever be strictly an indoor cat - I'm not saying allow your cats to roam your town (if you live in the country and there is not a high chance of them being hit - and you know they'll come home every night - then feel free I did it when I lived out in the country) but every cat needs to be outside for a few hours every day, rather its in an enclosed kennel they can't escape, or wearing a harness and on a lead they can't escape from. But they need outside time! Also they need to spend time with their entire family, cats are social animals, being jailed up all the time is not good for them mentally , physically, or on their over all internal health