You're welcome Harmony. I've collected this type of rose related stuff since the early 80s. It got to be a bit overwhelming, so I thinned it in the early 90s, giving most of the catalogs to Bob Edberg of Limberlost Rose Books. A lot of it went away in a fire in 1996, but some survived. Friends have passed such things along to me over the years and I've begged for copies from others. I rediscovered a few things sifting through boxes of rose related stuff putting the books back into bookcases where I can get to them after a move two years ago. Fine tuning them to sort out duplicates I'll pass along to Jeri this afternoon at a rose gathering uncovered this and a couple of others. Finally learning how to massage the scanner has helped, too. I love that it is possible to adjust the size of the image shared through Flickr to here so they are shown larger, about legible size, making it easier for anyone who wishes to read them. There is so much to learn from these things! We've had an extremely rich rose history here, but who would know? This catalog is particularly enjoyable to me as it ties in with the period covered by Mabel Osgood Wright's "Barbara" series, 1900 through 1910. Look for The Garden of the Commuter's Wife; The Garden, You and I; The Sign of the Fox; The People of the Whirlpool. I'm glad you've enjoyed them! Thanks! Kim

I bought my pulls from Knobs4less.com. They had the best prices that I could find, and they emailed and called me when my longer pulls were on backorder. I had free shipping and a good experience. I bought my cup pulls on ebay for about $1.60 per cup. I am very pleased with the quality. (I first bought a sample) I also have hardware that I bought at Menard's that I have had no problems with. The brands were Liberty and Belwith. I check the bags carefully because I once brought home a "newer" version of the hinge I was looking for, though it had the same product number, the style was just slightly different. I had to dig through the bin to find the same packaging as my match. I was relieved that there were enough of the same.

Absolutely don't use regular Contact paper unless you want a huge mess in removing it. I also don't recommend the Contact Shelf Liner. I lined my pantry shelves with this. I left it in place for a few years (wiped down occasionally). It was supposed to be easy to remove. Nope! It took hours to get it all up. I bought vinyl table cloth fabric by the yard. It has a felt like backing. It took more time to measure and cut, but it's easy to remove and clean. I often had to piece together shelf liner anyway since my drawers are not standard sizes. I toss it in the washing machine and let it air dry when I want to clean it. The bonus was that it was less expensive than rolls and rolls of shelf liner and looks prettier than shelf liner. Dollar store type places sell vinyl table cloths that could be used, but the fabric I bought was a bit more substantial.

Blowers built for the USA market will, with whatever electronics they might need, be designed for ac operation. Blowers that are induction motors, with or without capacitor start, use the ac directly. CFM for these can be controlled by simple circuits that chop up the ac waveform, in a sense. To my knowledge, no one uses universal motors for this function that could run directly on dc because they are noisy and big EMI generators. However, it is possible to build multi-phase motors that run on synthesized ac waveforms. For historical reasons, these are sometimes called brushless dc torque motors because they emulate the functionality of such motors, but use magnets and switching instead of a wired armature and brushes. Their electronics convert the house power from ac to dc, which is then switched at some frequency (variable) to provide ac to the motor stator coils. The rotor magnets are "locked" to the rotating waveform as the coils are energized and de-energized. So what is really needed is knowing what control is used with what motor, and whether this control can be inserted into the hood where its existing control is, or whether the existing hood control can deal with the blower motor directly. In my Wolf hood, the control is a simple diac/triac circuit that can run almost any induction motor up to some current capability. Since I have a 1500 CFM blower on my roof, obtained from Wolf but constructed by Broan/NuTone, I imagine any lesser blower of that type would run fine. If your Thermador hood has a similar setup, then I'm sure Fantech, for example, can provide an in-line motor of appropriate size and CFM. N.B. It is my opinion that the reason why my Wolf hood variable CFM does not go down to very low air flow rate is that the baffles have to have some minimum air velocity to remove grease by centrifugal extraction. My hot wire anemometer does not go down that far to measure it, but I suspect the minimum flow rate is not less than 20% of max.* In any case, my hood system is fairly quiet on max, and nearly silent on min. The reason is using a remote blower and in-line silencer (from Fantech). Bottom line: I cannot answer what Thermador does, circuit wise, but can guess that they are compatible with more than their own blowers. So the question to be asked of Broan, or Fantech, or Abakka is: Are you compatible with Thermador? If your hood includes a schematic, maybe attached inside its electronics box, then we might have more insight if you can scan it. __________________ *Edit: Reviewing the Hood FAQ, I see that I was able to measure the low speed volumetric flow. The measured value is consistent with the point of this paragraph, if not my guess.