Lori, very easy. They are latex molds; re-usable. Because you are actually pouring the mixture into the mold which is upside down (head first), it will come out like one whole rock, not flat like my angel is. It wasn't a sand cast project. The mold comes with a back up and you sit the latex in that to hold it upside so you can fill it. To make sure it would not tip over until the cement set, I put the mold in the back up, over the top opening of an unused flower pot. Done the next day. You just slip the latex off. You can search 'rock mold' or 'rock face' mold on eBay. I purchased the mold.

I don't know about the error code, however, most newer dryers will specify a certain time for drying while in "dry sensor" mode. If the load is not at a specified moisture amount at that time, the machine will "hold" at that point until the moisture level reaches the pre determined point, then will progress omward into the cool-down stage. (usually last 7-10 minutes). This is not unusual, and is desired. I would assume the error code came about by you fiddling around. Have you tried to unplug for a half hour or so, and then restarted?

Which Intuitive Eco model? There were three on the U.S. market -- IWL12, IWL15, and IWL16. You need to run some diagnostics to confirm what's working and what isn't (if anything). - With power off, press/hold Lifecycles, then press Power at the same time. Should get two beeps and the panel comes on. Release the buttons. - If the LCD backlight is on but a blank display (which it should be blank at this point), press Lifecycles again. An information screen should appear. If the screen is not blank then there's no need to press Lifecycles to get the display. - There are three diagnostic information screens. Press Option Up or Down to switch through the screens. Make note of any code numbers on Warning Status and Fault Status screens. Set the display to the Machine Status screen. - Notice it says Diverter:Off at the upper left below Machine Status. Continue to the next step. - Press How Dirty Up to run hot water. Press How Dirty Down to run cold water. Run each for a couple mins to confirm they keep running (must hold the button). A flaky valve solenoid may work at first when cool, then fail when it gets heated from use. Check that the hot water runs hot and cold runs cold (which will confirm you have the supply hoses connected correctly). Water will fill into the tub as you run it, which is OK, some water is needed for the next test. - Press the Home button. Diverter status should change to :Heating. Wait a minute or so, it should change to Diverter:On. Continue to the next step when that happens. - Press Fabric Care. The pump should turn on and water should shower out of the recirculation port at top right/rear under the tub cover. This is important - NO WATER should be flowing out of the drain hose. - Press Fabric Care (turns the pump off) and Home (turns the diverter off). The Diverter status will change to :Cooling, then to Diverter:Off in a couple mins or so. Go to the next step when that happens. - Press Fabric Care to turn the pump back on. Water should flow out of the drain hose ... and this is important - NONE from the recirculation port. Let the water drain completely. Press Power to exit diagnostics and report back here the results of your testing.

Sounds like a computer board problem. The washer has a "memory" of about 10 mins after it's unplugged (or so my DH tells me), so if you just unplug and wait a few seconds then plug back in it won't help as the machine still remembers where it was in the cycle as well as the error. You can try unplugging for at least 10 minutes and then see if you can get the door open when you plug it back in. My FL has a similar problem and I have found if I hit pause then press the start button again it will typically start back up. (Don't know if your TL has the same setup.) Sometimes I have to wait about 10 minutes(with it plugged in) between pushing cancel and start. If all else fails, I flip the circuit breaker for 10 mins. DH is replacing our board next week.