Sorry Davridro - I couldn't see this thread there for a while, and I have been busy with other stuff here in AZ.... not diss'in ya Bro - OK?? As far as this whole debate goes - here's the dealeo as far as I'm concerned: The smaller you make the stone around a sink opening (ie; 1" vs 2") the greater you increase the opportunity for fracture - Davidro - you are correct in your argument about the application, etc. The important thing to remember (and I think that you have pointed this out very well) is that the "plane" or "application" of the stone - has to be supported and remain flat without movement or "flex".... Plywood subtops do this very well, but adding steel re-enforcement to the recipe - IMHO - does it even better. I had a friend that actually laminated 3/4" x 3/4" box steel tube to the underside of a 2CM laminated front edge assemblies - so that the steel was not visible because of the front edge lower half covered it - he'd set the assembly directly on top of the cabinets. Sadly, he had to close his doors last year (it's NOT been fun here in PHX), so I do not know what his long term success rate will be - he started doing this process in 2006.... so we'll see. The other "ingredients" that make or break this whole scenario are: 1. stone thinkness - 2CM or 3CM 2. type of sink - stainless, cast iron, plastic, etc 3. size of sink 4. size of cabinet base sink is set in 5. depth of countertops 6. set back of UMS opening from front edge of stone 7. amount of support for sink and countertop from cabinet assembly 8. type of subtop material used (if any) 9. type of rodding used (if any) method of sink attachment and support (type of clips or support assembly used - if any) movement of the home, cabinets and/or countertop assembly (if any) amount of downward pressure or force applied to the sink assembly (gravity, content of sink and weight of garbage disposal and associated plumbing attached to the sink- all pulling down on the sink and the stone) potential for water penetration into the subtop Bottom line here - is that Davidro has some good comments on this thread, and there are multiple scenarios that will play out in determining whether or not an UMS application will hold up - long term hth kevin

Thanks aokat! My faucets are all from the Rohl country kitchen collection. The bridge at the main sink (Shaw fireclay) has the side spray, which I love. The other picture is actually my utility sink (cross handled faucet) in the laundry room which is visible from the kitchen so I went with something similar. My prep, a Kohler 17.5 X 15.75 and set in sidways due to size limitations, does not have a bridge or side spray. My DH, who is the main cook, prefers this faucet. We had to put the faucet on the right of the sink rather than behind the sink, due the shallow counter there. It works out great and is handy and convenient for the prep use. He does not like having a spray, so we didn't put one there. Honestly, I don't miss it, the sink is smaller and we don't do clean up there and really don't feel the need for it. The main thing to remember about faucet size, is make sure your faucet reaches the drain. We thought we only needed a 7" throw on the faucet, but ended up exchanging for the deeper 9" because of too much splash.

Yup. You are right Joseph Corlett--doesn't sound great. I don't know how people remodel more than 1 kitchen in a lifetime. And I don't know how you can deal daily with fixing so many botched counter / sink installs. My hat is off to you! Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge with GW. People like me really need and value your advice. This reno started out with optimism and energy to make the temporary kitchen an "adventure" and decisions are just opportunities. It's all wearing thin now with the little things that crop up (and the not so little things like counter problems). And I know I do not have it bad at all. Tomorrow will be a fresh day with fresh energy to deal with it. Thanks again Treb!

Not what you asked, but are you sure you need an air gap? Are you in California? Your name doesn't indicate that. I think California is the only state left that requires an air gap (maybe Maine too). That's because dishwashers today come with a "high loop" hose installed, so that you don't need an air gap. If your name means you are in Wisconsin, Wisconsin does not require an air gap. Please refer your plumber to WI Code which describes the requirements for a "below-counter air gap", i.e. a high loop installation on your DW. If you are in California, what many people in California do is have the air gap installed for the inspection (if you are having one), and then replace the air gap with a soap dispenser. If you decide to do that, you won't need 3 holes, just 2. For spacing, my single-hole faucet is centered over the sink, and my soap dispenser in on the right, 8" on center from the faucet center. Standard hole size for faucets is 1-3/8". I'd actually never heard there were different hole sizes than that.