The damage from an over application of fungicide is to the soil microbes where the plant roots are. When the beneficial microbes are killed off, the plants growing there suffer. Those microbes are responsible for the nutrients your grass gets. You can also look for the soil to become extremely hard, not compacted, but hard. The soil can recover but not until all the fungicide is decomposed. Because of the negative effect on the soil, fungicide is one of the worst things you can apply to turf. It should be used with the most care. If this is St Augustine grass, there is an organic alternative which has worked for me every year since 2002. It seems to work for other types of grass, too, but it definitely works for me on the typical springtime diseases. The product is ordinary corn meal - yes the same stuff you cook with, only I get it at a feed store in 50-pound bags for the size and coverage I need. It cannot hurt your soil or grass...unless you completely smother the grass in it. The normal application rate is 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. If you double that rate, no problem. If you quadruple that rate, you will know because you won't see grass anymore. Apply it, wet it, and let it work. Corn meal works through a biological process. First come the fungus species which decompose the corn meal. Then comes a predatory fungus called Trichoderma (try koh DER mah). The trichoderma wipes out the fungus growing on the corn meal and then looks for other fungi growing on the surface of the soil. The fungal disease is right there and becomes the next meal for the trichoderma. This process takes about 3 full weeks to see results. Corn meal is also a passable organic fertilizer. What this means is that if you only apply to the spots obviously affected by the fungus, those will turn dark green. To avoid having dark green spots in your yard, you should apply the corn meal to the entire lawn at the same rate. Corn meal will not work if you have already applied a chemical fungicide because the fungicide kills off the naturally occurring Trichoderma. Corn meal works on the most popular lawn diseases with the exception of any diseases characterized by red colors. So red thread and rust seem to not be affected by corn. At your feed store don't become confused by corn meal and corn GLUTEN meal. That is a different product and will have no effect on the disease in your yard. It is also much more expensive.

Not an experienced person at this -- this will be my second garden -- but here's my suggestions: 1. You could screen out the biggest chunks, and replace that volume with compost. This is the "more work for you but quicker turn around" option. 2. Second, and less work, would be to get massive quantities of coffee grounds and work them evenly throughout the beds, basically turning your beds into (short term) trench compost areas where the two main ingredients are grounds and the wood bits. When it comes time to plant, if you chose option 2, I'd recommend having some compost to mix in the exact location that you are transplanting into -- preferably something that will keep some moisture available for the plants for as long as possible. Maybe someone else will come along and describe how they fixed this situation.

I'm in zone 4, have a glass 8 by 12 foot greenhouse, not sealed well. I have a 30,000 vent free propane heater,that I only use last week in March through middle of April for seedlings. During the day, if the sun isn't out, it usually stays on pilot. It does come on a lot in the night. It really doesn't blow heat out far from the heater, it goes almost straight up so I don't have to worry that much about it being too close to the plants. I have to put it about 1/3 of the way towards one end, otherwise the rising heat makes my auto vent open up. I usually use about one 20lb. tank every 2 days in March, then it begins to last longer when it gets into April. The longest it lasts is 4 days, and then I usually turn it off during the daytime, and relight at night. It keeps my gh at just about 55 in the night, not much more. The pilot stays on at around 50 or higher. I try and rotate 3 tanks so I don't run out. I don't bother with large tanks since I only heat it for 3 weeks or so. I put my orchids in it for the spring-fall. I'm posting this so you can have an idea of what you might be looking at, although your house is half the size of mine, maybe this will be helpful. M

I'm not sure what to tell you. I would like to suggest putting in a 24" trash/recycling center in the old DW's space. Other than that...I don't know. Ideally, I'd say move the cooktop to the opposite angled wall. This would put the cooktop & Cooking Zone adjacent to the Prep Zone and now-prep sink. It would also protect the cooktop & Cooking Zone from traffic in and through the kitchen. In your layout, your Cooking Zone is across the kitchen from the Prep Zone, with an 8' wide aisle separating them...much too far! Additionally, the cooktop & Cooking Zone are in the middle of main path through the kitchen. I would do something like this with the back wall (left-to-right): 24" Wine Cooler + 24" MW Drawer 24" Drawer Base + 36" Refrigerator + 24" DW + 27" Sink Base + 24" Drawer Base + 33" Tall Oven Cabinet (If it would fit, go to a 30" sink base) (BTW...the drawer under a MW drawer is not that big...I doubt you could fit "all the dishes for dining in the morning room" in it.) Island: 24" UC Refrigerator + 45" of Drawer or other base cabinet(s)