How far along is the house? I'm not an electrical expert but if the walls are still open, it should be relatively easy to add more electrical lines unless you're already at full capacity, which I doubt. It sounds like the builder just doesn't want to be bothered. Personally, I'd take his 10K appliance budget which seems fairly generous and buy the appliances that you want yourself.

By the way there's a wiring forum here - you should post your questions there - lots of licensed electricians and other knowlegeable people hang out there. Good luck.

No, it's 3 weeks from completion. All dry wall is up and cabinets are in. Yes, I plan to use his $10K for my appliances, but it appears that his limited wiring may keep me from getting anything more than what he's already planned. Thanks, I'll check out the wiring forum too.

You didn't mention a hood. There have been a couple of threads on this forum from buyers who are buying new construction, but the builders aren't adding the ducting for the hood. But the builders absolutely should, and it is Code-required in some regions. Please check whether you are getting ducting to the outside for a hood, and if so, check what diameter that ducting is. It should be at least 8" diameter.

Thanks. Yes, the builder is providing the hood, and it's a built-in. He had said it does vent outside, but you're right, I should confirm it. And I will ask about the duct diameter, now that I know it needs to be >8". Thanks again!

The duct size needs to match the hood - some require 6", some 8" and some 10". Generally the more powerful the hood the larger the duct required. My 600 CFM hood only requires a 6" duct but most hoods do require 8" or 10".

Weissman is right about the 6" duct. I myself have 6" duct, but that's because I was hampered by pre-existing construction. My hood is not nearly as powerful as I'd like it to be because the more powerful hoods, as Weissman mentioned, need 8" or more. So, every time I turn on my hood when I am grilling something smokey (like steak), I regret that I have that 6" duct instead of an 8" or 10". But 6" is OK if you don't do a lot of smokey cooking.

As to your appliance choices, I can only comment on the DW. I think the Miele Optima will be just fine.

The Gaggenau combi-steam oven requires 220 volts, so you might not be able to put it in the slot meant for the microwave. But this is truly an awesome appliance, and if you think it might be in your future, I wouldn't give up on the possibility; I had to have a 220 line for something else installed after drywall was up, and it didn't cost that much. You should go to the Gagg Web site and get the installation details. Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your new house!

---Margaret

Hi,
If you have gas you would be better off with a sealed burner gas range it cooks much better then electric. Flat glass stovetops are hard to clean and are subject to problems. If gas I would get a 36" wolf sealed burner about $2500 well worth it. If you don't bake don't sweat the brand it won't get used maybe get a convection oven with a microwave top that can rotissary cook everything this would give you the look of a double oven but free up counter space most appliance distributers will have floor models don't be afraid to offer less for anything and GE is a good brand. The Miele can be a handful for service look at consumer reports website good base d/wash is Bosch quite and effective the newer Fisher Paykel drawer is suppost to be good I just purchased one and a single drawer the new design is good and offers alot if you want to run just one at a time for small loads about 1,200 if you shop. Try ebay good deals on appliances sometimes. Home expo has alot of closeouts as well. I would maximize your fridge size especially if you have kids a good fridge is your single best investment in your kitchen. hope this helps.

To the OP (original poster):

Induction cooktop: Great, much better than electric. I haven't researched the units you are considering, but for brand preference, I'd pick Gaggenau. We have a single burner 15" Gaggenau induction burner & it is awesome.

GE Monogram fridge: No problem here.

Dishwasher: Definitely Miele. We have 2 Excella's. The features we like best are also in the Optima, so you should be very happy with either.

Ovens: As you said, this is the problem area.
We have the Gaggenau combi steam oven & love it. However, I do not see any mention of availability of plumbing a water supply & drainage, which this appliance requires in addition to a dedicated 240 power circuit. This is tough unless planned for in advance of construction, & probably killer in your situation.

One suggestion for using your existing oven wiring: stack a 120 Advantium wall oven over the convection oven of your choice. The 120 Advantium can function as a speed cooker, microwave, convection oven, & warming oven. We have the 240 Advantium Monogram version & love it; it cooks more quickly than a 120 but does not have convection or the warming oven features.

For your full size convection oven below the Advantium, I'd recommend a single Miele MasterChef.

The problem with trying to put a combination microwave & oven double unit under a steam oven is that the top appliance will be too high to safely use, and you haven't solved the power issue.

Here is a link that might be useful: GE Advantium 120 wall oven

Thanks for your help, everyone!

Gizmonike - The 120 Advantium and a single Miele MasterChef convection oven sounds perfect... However, will that require ONE line or TWO? (The builder only has ONE 240V electrical wire there now, for the GE Monogram double ovens that he had planned.)

Eleeny -- a 240V electrical wire will work for double ovens or a single oven. It's all you'd need for the ovens. If you want a seperate rangetop or cooktop you need either a gas line or a different 240 V electrical wire -- depending on the specs (not sure if you're going with something like induction).

Whether or not you have GE Monogram or two different ovens, putting an electrical outlet for the microw -- it needs to be located carefully -- is not thousands of $$. It is more like $200 or even less. He just doesn't want to do it sounds like.

My advice is to make up your mind quickly -- before anything much more happens what you want. Get the technical downloads of the specifications so you know where things need to go and then get a price based on something specific -- i.e. what you need done.

The longer it takes to make up your mind the more difficult it is (they paint etc).

Why does the duct not vent outside?

Your original post mentioned the 120 line for the microwave & 240 for double ovens, so I thought they were in the same stack--sorry. Where did the builder think the microwave was going to go? Are you happy with this location, or should it be located in your oven stack?

To put two oven units in a stack, you'll need two power lines. What they are (volts & amperage) depends on the appliance requirements. Find out now how much it will cost to pull another wire to where the oven power is now.

When I was researching appliances, I was very impressed with Monogram, and might have added more than our Advantium if it were not for other choices we made. I'm including a link to the Monogram version of Advantium 120. You could easily pair this with a Monogram full size convection oven if the Miele MasterChef is too expensive or you don't like it.

Here is a link that might be useful: Monogram Advantium 120

Just a quick note...we have a 12-year old smooth top electric stove (GE Profile). It is incredibly easy to clean! Ours looks like new 12 years later--no scratches, pits, whatever. So, don't be scared off concerning cleaning. I think the induction is the way to go. We'd have one if I could convince my DH that it's not some "new fangled" device...it is expensive though (compared to a radiant cook top)

The Optima is a great DW and many on the forum have them and love em. If you have the money I would go for the Excella because it does have a few things not found on the Optima.

1. Load recognition which will match the water consumption to the amount of dishes you are washing.

2. The ability to remove the top rack and wash only in the bottom.

3. Supposed to be slightly quieter, although this is influenced by other things like floor construction, proper installation and how you "hear" things.

4. A few extra cycles that take less time and water than those found on the Optima but, still clean very well.

5. Setting options is a bit easier because of the display interface.

Ok, so right now he has ONE 240V line in the wall oven cabinet. Should I ask for ANOTHER 240V line AND a 120V line in that cabinet, so that I can have a single oven, plus a steam oven? (The extra 120V would be if I want to add a warming drawer there in the future, or if I want to put a microwave there someday. Then there would be enough electrical wiring there to be flexible.)

Right now, he has the microwave shelf in a separate location, under the kitchen island, which is okay with me. I will ask for a 120V line there... A 240V line there wouldn't be necessary, right?

Since we're planning to live in this house for a long time, I just want things to be done right.

That sounds about right. The 120V is fine for a microwave. Even though your walls are up, hopefully he can snake the wires down to the panel without causing too much damage. And by the way, this should not cost thousands. If he tries to overcharge you, just bring in your own electrician.

Put the microwave in the location that will be handiest for you & what you use it for. For us, that's near the refrigerator. BTW, a microwave doesn't have to be built in, and the units are less expensive if countertop, which can go into a pantry or on a shelf.

Running two 240V and a 120V to your oven stack will definitely take care of all contingencies, but you will pay for each circuit. However, it should be easier now than later. BTW, one 240V circuit can be split into two 120V lines.