Gotcha. I'd say do the shower floor just like it was a nobelseal shower floor. Run the membrane across the floor and up the wall studs/blocking to a height about 3" above the top height of the curb. Check into that 3" minimum, I think that's what Nobel recommends. It can be nailed or stapled to the studs at the top edge of the membrane. You can detail the corners as they are supposed to be. The thing to watch out with when using thicker membranes like Nobelseal is that several overlaps can cause the bottom edge of the backer board to get "kicked out" into the shower if the overlaps will be trapped between the backer board and the wall framing. Regardless, there are several ways to detail the corners, you can fold them, or cut and overlap, or use preformed corners. Or tuck the membrane into the corner. With tucked, just make sure that the tucked part doesn't flop down in the corner, you want the top of the tucked edge to stay 3" above the flood plain, or 3" above the top of the curb. Each corner method has its pluses and minuses, see which is best for you based upon your situation. That build-up when overlapping, though, that's why you'll see references to notching wall studs, etc, when using thicker membranes. Anyhow, after the floor membrane is installed, install your backer board on the wall. Hold it about 1/4" or so of the floor. Fill and seal that 1/4" gap with a Nobel sealant or its equivalent. Now if you were running nobel membrane on the walls, you'd run it on the walls and butt it to the floor membrane, sealing that butt joint with a bead of nobel sealant. However, since you're using Kerdi, you can do one of a few things: 1) Install the wall Kerdi just like it was nobelseal membrane, butting the Kerdi on the wall to the Nobel on the floor, and seal the wall-to-floor membrane joint with sealant. This might be the best way due to the uncertainties about overlapping Kerdi and Nobel that I'll talk about in a bit. 2) Run the wall membrane down the wall and lap it onto the floor membrane 3" or so, thinsetting the Kerdi membrane to the nobelseal on the floor. If you do this though, you might need to run a couple of beads of sealant between the Kerdi and the nobel where they overlap on the floor. 3) Any of the other typical "Kerdi" options, which would be running the wall membrane down onto the floor like in #2 above, or using Kerdi band to seal them, etc. Again, though, where Kerdi overlaps Nobel, you might need a couple of beads of nobel sealant. Regardless of which you chose, I'd call Nobel and Schluter and run the options past them. I think option #1 is pretty straightforward and safe. My concern is that while a Kerdi-Kerdi overlap can be made watertight with a 2" overlap and thinset, Nobel requires nobel-nobel overlaps to have two beads of sealant to make that overlap watertight. Essentially, the Kerdi-Nobel overlap is untried and untested, so two beads of sealant might be best. But it's still untested. However, (and it's a big however) the overlap really doesn't really have to be watertight. With the nobel floor membrane running several inches up the walls, it's like a traditional CPE shower pan. There's your waterproofing. All you really need were you to overlap Kerdi on to Nobel is that the overlap not delaminate. With thinset being able to adhere to the fabric of both membrane, that shouldn't be a problem.

Hudsonleigh-- This is what I was talking about. If you've seen any of the threads where I posted that bathroom that was all white hex tile, floor to ceiling-- it's owned by what was (before he retired) a nationally recognized architect. When he was in college, he studied a gentleman by the name of Henry Chapman Mercer, who was renowned in the world of architecture for some of the "out of the box" innovations he'd come up with that were well before his time. Mercer, however, was also known on an unfortunately lesser scale for also being the first commercial handmade tile manufacturer in this country. He started his company Moravian Tile Works back at the turn of the 20th century, and very few of his original tiles are still around, and the ones that are, are considered historical works of art. So you can imagine my surprise when this gentleman asked me to mount several of these pieces for him! He'd taken a trip to Pa. to research for a project he was designing, and when he got down there, he actually got to meet Mercer's daughter, who at the time, was helping to clean out one of the buildings there (I forget what it was going to be used for, but anyway...). They talked at length, and because of all the studying he'd done on her father, she offered this guy several tiles that were JUST GOING TO GET THROWN OUT OTHERWISE! He took all he could carry in his arms, and that's how he ended up with them When he brought them out to me, I was holding a piece in each hand, thinking to myself "this one is last years salary, and this other one will cover THIS year!" Originally, we were going to inlay them into a framed piece to hang in his bedroom over the door of his new master bathroom: But once I had the back ground all cut in and laid in dry, he liked it so much just the way it was, and decided to use it as a table for down at his dock (he lives on a lake up here). So then he decided to inlay them into the seat top of a bench he was having built into a bay window that overlooked the lake from his bedroom, and that's where they ended up: One last thing-- Flyleft-- you might be interested to check out the link below. :-) Here is a link that might be useful: Present Day Moravian Tile Works Catalog

OMG! How funny you'd post that second comment! Our GC installed all the tile this week and I was a little taken back when he mentioned he didn't use spacers. I didn't say anything just thought to myself "oh-oh" and have been thinking about it ever since. You've thankfully put that to one rest! For the most part, our GC has done a great job, and I should really have some trust, but I've heard & read about so many bad experiences, I'm finding it hard to do. Thanks!

Well mine is actually a mix of extra tiles I ordered for the kitchen backsplash (long story short...they're the pieces that I should have ordered bullnose) and they're too expensive to just let sit in a box, so I thought I'd do a backsplash on the desk to remind me how stupid I was for the rest of my life LOL But since they're not bullnose (they're handmade tiles) I needed an edge for them, and didn't want to spend a fortune so I purchased some really pretty little glass tiles to go on the top and near the bottom two little tiles deep. But frankly, that's hand made tile AND glass tile LOL Bill and Mongo have made me so danged tile crazy (in a good way) that it sounded like a fun project for the future...but maybe not heh heh As I typed this I got a new email with my tile install bid...CHOKE ummm $17,900....Ouch. Maybe I can tackle this little job LOL