My handy husband actually had to spend a couple days getting ready for this. Our gas pipe was 1/2"; this needed to be changed to a 3/4". We had dual fuel before so had 220, and this had to be split off. The outlet had to be moved. Then, after the range was delivered, he discovered that there is a bar several inches wide across the bottom of the range and up a couple inches from the floor. He had to move the new outlet he'd installed. Our counters (to be replaced anyway as a part of this project) were a teensy bit too small to slide this in, so we had a tile nippers out trying to cut the counters down just a teeny bit. This is a heavy beast of a machine, and it was very difficult to move around at all. My husband had to climb over the countertop several times to get behind it (it is installed between two counters) to make sure the gas hose/pipe was fitting in behind the stove in the niche where it goes. Then, he had to climb out from this small space and over the counter again before we could push it in. But, here is the biggest warning/error that I hope happens to no one else. We are still having a "discussion" about remedying this. In preparation before the range was delivered, my husband had been online reading about installation requirements. I was busy with work and life and wasn't paying any attention at all to what he was doing. He mentioned something about the range having to be installed on non-combustible material. Our floor under the range needed repair anyway since we were replacing a downdraft that had a cut out into the floor. So he got plywood to install and covered that with some floor tile we had left from an old project. I never thought anything of it. Then, after everything else was finally completed and we were able to hook up the range, we pushed it all the way in. The horrible gray tile is visible under the range--a terrible contrast to our hardwood kitchen floors. I freaked. He said he had read this was necessary. I doubted this. Then, I had a brainstorm. He had been reading instructions online for installing a commercial Wolf range in a residence. He got so wrapped up in reading the instructions that he hadn't stopped to realize that we do not have a commercial range. The horrible gray tile is still under it because he says this range was such a PIA to install (and he glued the tiles down to the plywood) that he does not want to move the range out again. I am waiting for a bit to bring this up again. I don't think it is politic right now since he worked so long to get everything set up for the install, and he did it while he was also sick. So, a word to the wise........But, that gray tile is going somehow!

You didn't say what type of internet connection/ set up you have. If you have a router behind a modem, the router is losing it's IP address for some reason. A hard restart will reset the IP address, i.e., pull the power cord for a minute or two. If you have a wireless router, be sure it's not trying to connect on a neighbors router, which if not encrypted may be strong enough for the computer to see it, but too weak for it to piggyback on. A neighbor of mine has a Mac that wants nothing more than to hitch a ride on my Airport Express, which isn't encrypted, as all it does is stream music. This is fine, unless the dog knocks the Airport out of the wall outlet and then she loses her internet connection. I'd also really like to use it to boost my encrypted wireless range (on a PC), but my Airport is also smitten with the neighbor's Mac. Once my neighbor gets back from vacation, I have to end this computer tryst (the neighbor is 83 and only has a computer because her kids/grandkids insist she use email, only after multiple attempts at "fixing" her DNS errors -computer not found-, did the true cause dawn on me). The previous responses all assumed you have dialup. If you have DSL or cable internet service, you have a separate issue, although still a connection issue.

Millworkman, so u sell 98% Vinyl products to the commercial industries..that's great.. Sadly, you did attack me. Exclamation points are a sign of excitement or to show how strongly you feel about what you are saying. Like yelling at me in with your words not your voice. However, I wish I was talking to you face to face or over the phone, much more comfortable for me that way. Whatever,,it is what it is now... i gave too much information. All you need is the Product Code from the Energy Star Label (maybe the Licensee # too) and the websites to go on, ..there are not many people who would think to breaking down the information on the Energy Star Label as I did. I know soo much about Windows..."windows are not just windows" There are Standards that must be followed, paperwork to fill out explaining the test, name of the Lab that will do the testing, an IA to approve, for each unit that is tested, and $$$.$$ for each unit that is tested, if you are a member, you pay less than those who are not members.. The only reason I can think of for constantly attacking HOW I explained my situationand over the facts of the situation, was to distract the reader. People have a tendency to follow along, to be a part, to fit in...that's ok, my own fault for taking the chance. I should have listened to my inner voice that was totally afraid to do this at all..and not posted my situation. I have been trying to explain, since May..before the installation was complete, that these windows are not what I ordered, than find that they are no longer an active windows, they have been in the archives for ...when realizing they told me this much info, they were not willing to tell me how long or when the Energy Performance Ratings expired.... From whom I recieved this information, you can guarantee, is with out a doubt, solid as a ROCK, reliable source! Now don't go and focuses on the fact that I did not receive what I ordered. The fact is that THE ENERGY PROFORMANCE RATINGS, FOR EACH WINDOW, ARE IN THE ARCHIVES..THIS HAS EXPIRED. There really is an explanation date for windows... If you know how to find this out for yourself, do that. oberon476 has short sentences and paragraphs. Consider this as puzzle you downloaded. Have fun with it! We will call it "The Mystery of EPR for Marvin Windows" Find clues the clues in oberon476 biography...remeber, Have fun with it! Nassau Door & Window, E-Z Touch Home Improvement & Remodeling Inc., and Super Enterprises (they distribute Marvin Windows in Queens), .. **Oh, I have to add Marvin Family of Brands also, they told me they Manufactured and Mulled the 2-Wide and the Bay Window..These windows were dumped off on me because I paid in full, by check, on April 3, 2017 when I placed the order with NDW..**can I blame them for Windows from Marvin? Maybe if I put down $200.00 and gave the balance later? I don't know...I need a good set of testicles like you millworkman. 4 months of this...I can not explain the toll this has taken in my life..as this has been nothing but back and forth..as you all have done, not seeing the facts just the nonsense in between...I can not break this down any smaller than I have! I can not move forward. I am holding the family back from moving forward... **. reason for questioning

Looking at bbdf's mock-ups made me realize something: I forgot to add spacers between wall and cab for the cab next to the DW in Plan D. You'll lose at least 3 inches and perhaps as much as 5", depending on door and door handle depth from this cab. If you don't allow for door and door handle depth, you won't be able to open the drawers because they'll hit the fridge door or door handle. Same will be true if you do doors instead of drawers. That means that the cab next to the DW in my Plan D could be as narrow as 15.5". Looking back at the plan posted in your OP, it doesn't look like the drawing (created by the cab maker?) included spacers between wall and cab to allow for the fridge door and handles. That's a big uh-oh. So I went back to bbdf's #7 option and one of LL's lay-out suggestion for fridge placement. I think it's the best solution for your kitchen and one you should revisit. Yes, it takes a bigger bite out of the budget but there are ways to accomplish this without breaking the budget. For instance, choose inexpensive backsplash tile and laminate or wood counters instead of stone (wood would look very true to your kitchen's age, IMO). You can always update finishes later but it's not nearly as easy to update lay-out and function later for minimal investment. Plus you can opt to do the full plan in stages as budget allows. You can either opt for the wider opening and fridge location as bbdf drew up in her post of Wed, Nov 12, 14 at 23:01 or you can remove the wall completely. You'll need to install a beam for either option but moving the doorway and recessing the fridge will require new headers so the cost difference may not be as great as you think to widen the entry or remove the wall completely. Widening the doorway or losing the wall will also open up the view to your backyard from your kitchen, which you only get through the one window now. If you choose the lose the wall between kitchen and laundry area: You gain 4.5" to use along the sink wall (I'm assuming based on the age of your home that it's 2x4 construction, not 2x6 construction). I butted the fridge up against the existing upper cabs (you plan on keeping them, right?). I allocated 39" of width for your existing 36" wide fridge and a surrounding cabinet. Depending on cab construction, that could change by an inch or so. In case you missed it, this plan allows you to keep your existing fridge, which is money you can put towards widening the opening or removing that wall. With the fridge next to the sink run cabs, you don't lose cab storage between fridge and DW. I added a cab with counter across from the fridge. I estimated its height, based on where the window sill is compared to the back door handle. This could be as far as you take the plan for now, keeping existing W/D closet in place. Or you can remove the W/D closet, stack the W/D at the far end (I realize the ceiling slopes but unless it's lower than 6' 6", you should have room to stack the W/D units) and add a 30.5" wide pantry between W/D and fridge. This would give you loads of storage for broom, mop, kitty litter, pantry goods, small appliances, etc. Across from it, I added another 30" high counter above kitty litter pan alcove, dog feeding station, etc. The W/D could be visible, as they are in this kitchen: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/san-francisco-white-kitchen-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~602970) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by New Holland Kitchen & Bath Designers Rutt Regency Cabinetry Or you can put them behind cab doors like they are in these two kitchens: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/chelsea-home-renovation-transitional-dining-room-atlanta-phvw-vp~6950087) [Transitional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/transitional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2112) by Ridgewood Architects & Building Designers TerraCotta Studio Now you see it [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cow-hollow-residence-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~43688) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Francisco Interior Designers & Decorators Amoroso Design Now you don't [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/cow-hollow-residence-traditional-kitchen-san-francisco-phvw-vp~43687) [Traditional Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2107) by San Francisco Interior Designers & Decorators Amoroso Design I changed the small bistro table to a fold-down table attached to the wall. Fold it up when you need it, fold it out of the way when you don't. This will make accessing the buffet storage and side cabs much easier, plus the beauty of that buffet will no longer be blocked by a table. This is the idea but not the execution of what I envision for your kitchen. [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/alterman-eclectic-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~2948642) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Jersey City Design-Build Firms Brunelleschi Construction [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/alterman-eclectic-kitchen-new-york-phvw-vp~2948640) [Eclectic Kitchen[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/eclectic-kitchen-ideas-phbr1-bp~t_709~s_2104) by Jersey City Design-Build Firms Brunelleschi Construction This style is more what I have in mind for your kitchen: [[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/exterior-traditional-minneapolis-phvw-vp~352298) [Traditional Spaces[(https://www.houzz.com/photos/traditional-home-design-ideas-phbr1-bp~s_2107) by Edina General Contractors John Kraemer & Sons bmorepanic did something like this in her even-smaller-than-yours kitchen but I can't seem to find links to her old kitchen threads (her kitchen was finished several years ago) nor does her kitchen show up in the FKB. She still posts periodically so you could always give her a shout-out asking her to show you her table. As with my Plan D, I moved the range to the left to give you more counter between sink and range. The upper cab to the left of the range would have hinges on the front (facing the kitchen) and side (facing the DR doorway) so that you can access items from either side. Shoot, I can't find the example of this that I had in mind on houzz right now. Pretty sure a GWer (maybe beekeeperswife) has done this so you could also ask for examples of this. Anyhoo, having it open on 2 sides means that you won't lose things in the back reaches of a fairly narrow cabinet. Or you can just have it open to the side and put a false panel on the front. Oops, I forgot to note that the sink cab is 30". I think a 30" apron front sink would be period appropriate. This post was edited by lisa_a on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 12:59