oh, no!!!! How horrid!!! Hugs to you, Jeff. This is awful! And one of your beautiful tree roses smashed, how I hope and hope it wasn't your Julia Child!!! Such a dream tree rose ... I cannot believe the devastation... Hugs, hugs, hugs... Guys, hush with the rain! brings very bad luck/karma, don't mention a peep... that is what global warming is all -- sudden terrible storms and drenchers, from polar meltdowns for up-coasters like Maine, New Jersey, Rhode Island, etc, and horrible increase of droughts for those landlocked... To terrifying to mention... I too am worried when tornados hit... My tree roses are now too heavy for me to carry in the house, so they will be left to fend for themselves if my BF is not there to help me bring them inside... I can just imagine myself having a complete nervous breakdown when Kansas gets its tornado winds... Jeff, your roses are soooo spectacular and stunning and I cannot even begin to fathom the huge shock and upset this must be...Tons of hugs and condolences... The only comfort is that you are such a good gardener, and they are lucky to have you... They will make their best recovery just for you I am sure of this!

Check with the inspection agency first to determine whether or not they allow air admittance valves. Some plumbing codes and jurisdictions prohibit their use. Another option if an AAV cannot be used is to vent the sink by way of a 'combination waste and vent'. A combination waste and vent requires a minimum 2" drain for the sink that must terminate into a 3" drain. This 'oversized' drain acts as a drain and a vent. One cannot install a waste grinder on a sink where there is a combination waste and vent, however. Another option is use a standard size drain but vent through the wall if you have the clearance to the doors and windows and can get the vent above the flood level rim of the sink.

That is a problem all of us experience. We know what we mean, but often leave out seemingly small details we do not realize are important. In this case, the missing info was so important, leaving it out means all the info given is not applicable. Using the new info, it is up to the insurance company and the policy as far as replacement. If the policy states replace in kind(using what was damaged) and that material is acceptable under local codes, then replacement of the original type material should be done. That means the boards will be replaced as originally installed, regardless of butt spacing or T&G type. However, if there is no specific wording, repairs are generally done according to local building codes, with the actual selection of materials done by cost. Another difference is material thickness. As a rule, solid wood boards were 3/4" thick. Plywood is not an actual 3/4"(or 1/2", 5/8", etc.) thick. And OSB can be thinner or thicker than the nominal thickness. That means mixing types of materials is not a good practice. Testing has proven, using dimensional(solid) wood boards installed on the oblique to the support framing for roof sheathing or subfloor construction is the most stable and strongest material commonly used. The down side is that method is also the most expensive and labor intensive (meaning more expensive) method. Plywood was less expensive to buy and install. And OSB was cheaper than plywood. Then there are climate conditions. As reported in the link provided by worthy, OSB is subject to edge swelling, which can only get worse with age and exposure to moisture. There are water proof versions of OSB, they are about half to 2/3 heavier than conventional types and MUCH more expensive. To the point is is not worth using, since other less expensive materials are available. I've seen tests where the waterproof variety sat under water for 6 months and was completely undamaged. It was, sadly, too heavy and expensive to use as subfloor material and would be way too heavy for roof sheathing. Plywood can delaminate and solid wood swell when exposed to moisture. Once that moisture is gone, both types can return to near original dimensions and strength. Even delaminated plywood can have near new strength. All the types of sheathing will be eventually weakened by continual exposure to water/moisture. That is why techniques to prevent moisture/water intrusion are as important as the type of material chosen.

It might depend on where the house is located, but Engineering by "theory" can often be penny wise and pound foolish. In order for orienting the strength axis perpendicular to the studs to gain any shear strength, there must be continuous horizontal blocking put in at the seam that is created 4' up the wall. This blocking creates unnecessary thermal bridging in the middle of the outside wall, and can promote sloppy insulation installation. It also takes twice as long to frame and insulate the wall, driving up construction cost. Unlike floor and roof decks that have a vertical load that benefits greatly from the orientation of the strength axis, shear walls only need to worry about lateral and rotational loads unless you are planning on driving a forklift into it. The diaphragm is created by nailing the perimeter of the sheathing to the framing members. If you study this chart (red marks), you will see that switching the direction of the sheathing only increases the Allowable shear from 240 pounds per foot to a less than relevant 260 #/ft. BUT, increasing the perimeter nailing from every 6" to every 4" increases it much better to 350 #/ft. Unless you live on a fault line, hurricane zone, or tornado alley, and your local design requirements are at the limits of the table, it does not make much sense to turn the sheathing for a very limited, and often unnecessary gain. The shear requirements and tables in the International Residential Code are generally based on the sheathing being installed vertically on the wall even though it is allowed to be horizontal. In fact, you may only be required to have a shear panel (4' wide) every 16' depending on where you live. The rest could be High-R foam sheathing.