The LOW and HIGH are the mixture needles for low and high speed operation. I don't know about your engine/carburetor, but a rough setting could be 1 1/2 to 2 turns out to start with. NEVER tightly screw the needles into their seats when resetting the needles, this will damage the needles and/or seats and make accurate adjustments and good operation possibly impossible. Just gently snug the needles and back them out. Get the engine started, raise the idle speed if you have to to keep things running for the time being. Set the high speed jet by accelerating the engine to full throttle and holding it there. Slowly screw the HIGH needle in unitl the engine stumbles, this is the mixture starting to go lean - running/cutting here can overheat the engine and burn pistons, etc. Slowly unscrew the HIGH needle, the engine RPM will peak and as you continue to unscrew the engine will begin to stumble again - this is the mixture going rich. Running here will cause carbon to build up in the exhaust ports and/or foul spark plugs sooner. Just screw the HIGH needle in a little until the stumble goes away and the RPM picks up. This is on the rich side of peak RPM and is a good place to run - just a hair rich is good for power and cooling, IMO. Now let the engine RPM drop down to idle. The LOW mixture screw only works with the throttle closed to the idle position, so slow the idle speed down with the IDLE speed screw if you need to. Its OK during adjustment to overslow the idle a little. Now turn the LOW screw in until the engine stumbles a little (lean side) and then back it out until it stumbles a little (rich side) and set the LOW mixture 1/2 way between these 2 stumble settings. Now reset the IDLE speed to make sure the engine isn't too slow that it kills but slow enough that it idles and disengages the chain clutch after reving. Repeat the whole process if necessary to get things tuned in. Hope this helps.

Andrea, what a LOVELY collection you have! Not sure if you already have an Oklahoma but when I bought mine last year, I was really surprised at the difference in color (versus what the tag was and what I had seen online). It is a dark red. Like almost black. If I had to compare it to something, I'd say it was similar to the darkest red wine.. Due to last year's intense heat, I didn't get too many blooms from Oklahoma so the color that I experienced could have very well been unusual for the rose. I like the idea of swapping out Oklahoma for the reds, pinks and stripes. After looking at the All American Magic, I can't imagine that Oklahoma will compliment it due to it's intensely rich color. Hope that that was helpful.

Thread snapping and needle breaking sounds like wrong threading or wrong setup. All sewing machines needs service now and then. Give the machine some TLC, oil all places, check with the instruction manual if you have it. There are holes to be oiled, lids to be lifted, sometimes loosening of a screw or two is needed. All models and makes are different this way. In general: move all joints and moving parts that touch, it is all about reducing friction. Check for any threads and lint around the bobbin case and feed dogs (unscrew the needle plate if necessary). It's surprising what can gather there over time. Double check that threading is done correctly on both under thread and over thread. Some models are very particular, the bobbin has to go in the right way (the way it is wound). Then check needle, sometimes low quality needles make machines act up, if possible use Schmetz or Orgran during truble shooting. Check that the needle is put in the correct way for your model (flat side either to the right, left or backwards). This should give you an indication of how the needle is threaded, usually straight on when the flat side of the needle is in the back (facing away from you). Make sure the thread doesn't go around the needle, only straight along the shaft through the hole and under the pressure foot and backwards. Needles needs to be replaced quite often, and make sure they are sharp and not bent. Thicker needle for denim and heavier fabrics, finer for thinner fabrics. Always sharp needle unless you sew jersey or knits. This might have solved the problem, but if not: When you have double checked correct insertion of the needle, set the machine to straight stitching. Make sure the needle doesn't hit the needle plate by manually moving the balance wheel. There is most likely a function for moving the needle to the left or to the right, and there is often a mark on the needle plate for correct posistion. Don't drag the fabric at all when trouble shooting, let the feed dogs do all the work. You most likely don't have to adjust under thread tension, but double check that upper thread tension mechanism is clean and lint free. Some models have automatic tension (Bernina had it on their 60s models), others have a manual knob with numbers, models differ a bit that way. If upper thread tension is too high the tread will snap, but most often it is wrong threading or setup when adjusting the tension doesn't solve it. Only bother about this after straight stitching works fine: Then set the machine to zigzag, check the needle movement manually with your hand turning the balance wheel a few times. The needle should go clear of the needle plate and move within the space it is meant for. There is limit to how wide the zigzag stitch can be set (how far the needle arm swing from right to left when sewing).

I had an iDrive (not the Pro) a while back and thought it was a pretty neat opener. At least the original one only worked with torsion spring doors and essentially wrapped around the torsion tube and worked by rotating the tube. It also had a little "foot" that would swing down to keep the door from being forced open. Unfortunately they weren't the most reliable things, I think I replaced the entire unit once and the also the control board in the span of about two years. I'm working from distant memory here but I think it had an upper and lower control limit switches. So one of yours may need to be slightly decreased.