greetings; Sorry for the delay...I have been reviewing several of the (rather dated)investigations I have on conifer seed treatment using bleach as well as supplemental articles available on the internet. My conclusion in this case is that sometimes brevity without further elucidation can be misleading... I also visited some local growers to survey the retail price of cellpack inserts:($1.00 per sheet)and 2.5 inch pots:(05 cents each or 12 for the price of 10).I have found that in many instances the 32cells/sheet separated to 4 cells/with a saucer and draped with plastic wrap is a satisfactory modular set-up for indoor sowing whereby seeds are thinly sowed based upon the genetics and physiology of the cultivar.>Then pricked out to a more suitable cellpack or pot...This set-up also might help reduce cross-contamination of diseased seeds obtained through seed-exchanges.Also I would recommend the booklet on propagation published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden...(regarding:seeds of dubious hybrid derivatives yielding weak seedlings and so forth... The 2.5 inch pot is one of the industry standards suitable for many outplanting garden situations. By surveying a local garden shop one can determine if more than one seedling/pot is feasible and note the poracity of the media that is used.A 2.5inch pot economizes media ,space, and overall expenditure...(32pots/1020 flat)which can then be halved/ spaced to 18 or less as the crop develops...If a larger size pot is required- that is rather understood... Much of the satifactory results with a 2.5inch pot are based upon timing;knowing the environment you are working with(light quality/duration)temp.growing lean(fertilizer/irrigation); proper fertilizer selection;air circulation and so forth found in any good book on seed propagation... the phytotoxicity of bleach when working with seedlings is from my own experience conferring with a senior grower long ago and reconfirmed by further reading.The information and citations at hand is modified from the original investigations > Nelson,P.V.(1978).Greenhouse Operation and Management;Moody,E.H. and G.E.Smith (1982)Sanitation:Plant Health from Start to Finish.Publ.286.Raleigh,N.C.North Carolina Extension Service:84-100

I use the Easy-Off Fume-Free as well in my AG Wolf range. Mine has the infrared broiler and I never spray the Easy Off directly on it. It never seems to look dirty; I think maybe it gets so hot when in use that it pretty much incinerates any grease that splatters up on it - kind of like it's self-cleaning! ;-) I agree with Kitchencommander that if you stay on top of things, wiping out big spills when they occur and doing light general cleanings before things build up, it's very easy to keep it looking good. I worried about the lack of self-clean before I bought it but I think the trade-off (open burners and an infrared broiler, not to mention the price difference vs. DF) was well worth it.

Here's an update in case anyone is curious. GE CS guided me through the "Smart Dispense Purge" which they also have instruction for on their website. I'm going there now to get full details. It's just a certain order of buttons to press on the DW that "purges" everything out of the dispensor and cleans it out (hopefully). I was also told that the lower phosphate detergents (less than 5%) also did this type of clumping in the machine, after I told CS that I did use the appropriate 'bleach include' detergents. There is no where in the manual that says anything about "under 5%" phosphates doing this to the DW, so I thought I was good. Now i need to find a new detergent, other than the costco brand I'vwe been using. This one has 4+% phosphates in them. Well, I'm on my 2nd cycle of purging the system. First one didn't look like it did anything, because the final instructions were to "wipe excess detergent off the inside of the machine". When done, there was no detergent to wipe off and the container was still full of detergent. I did go to step 2 which is to add water to the Dispensor and do it again, but I couldn't add too much water, again, because there was still detergent in the dispensor. Going to the website now. Just wanted to update. thanks again for the help. i hope this helps someone else.

With the system we use the felt (30 lb) goes down first and then the walls are framed on top. The denarco sure seal goes down in between the felt and the bottom wall plate. With the gasket in place, the felt actually "bonds" to the Advantech under the weight of the wall. Sill seal typically is either a closed cell foam or a fibreglass insulation. The weight of the wall ruptures the closed cells and when that happens, it looses its memory capabilities rendering it pretty much useless as a forgiving seal.. The fibreglass insulation just plan leaks. The beauty of the Denarco gasketing is that it is an open cell urethene impregated gasket. Being open cell allows it to open up to whatever gap needs to be filled (depending on the gasket size) and the urethene impregnation makes the gasket airtight when subjected to 60% compression. This allows for a forgiving seal as wood expands and contracts. Caulking under a sole plate is better than nothing, but pretty much a band aid, in regards to longevity. The only kind of caulking that is forgiving is Tremco Acoustical sealant. We call it "black death" because its so hard to work with, without getting it all over everything. 30 lb felt is durable enough to withstand most of the rigors of construction. Care should be taken to "orient" the staple direction for ease of removal later, and you should staple within the last 1/2" of the felt, otherwise too much debris gets under the lap, causing the staples to tear loose. 15lb felt isnt worth the effort.