I wouldn't call this hybrid a "harlequin" type phalie. Harlequins are all together different with more "panda" type spotting. The white streaks are suspect. It maybe clonal mutation. That happens a lot with cheap clones. Usual color break virus, there will be areas of light AND DARK streaks in the petals. The leaves in Tobacco Mosaic or Ringspot viruses usually do manifest some leaf necrosis or streaking or yellowish patterns which become necrotic. But don't believe that any plant you buy from a nursery let alone a big box shop isn't virused. Virus can easily be spread by unsterilized cutting tools. Unsterilized pots (re-used) or insect vectors like slugs or snails, even mice. But humans are the biggest vector in transmitting the disease from one plant to another. When I cut my plant for any reason, I heat sterilize my shears with a propane torch for a a minute till it gets red hot. The heat from the tool will help cauterize the cut. OR use a single edge razor blade and then toss it away when through. You can reuse it if you again heat sterilize it with a blow torch. Dipping it in peroxide will do nothing. Clorox solution will work, as well as Physan solution. But it is very caustic to metal and if you are using good shears, it will rust it very quickly. Beware of people who say mericlones are virus free. They may not be. Cloning does not rid the plant of virus (the old days, there was thought that meristem cloning could remove virus if done correctly. It hasn't happend for orchids. Has helped free potatoes from mozaic virus.) Seed grown plants are usually virus free. But again, even at a relatively clean nursery, plants can become virused by neglectful growers. Buy from good sources. Carter & Holmes sells guaranteed virus free plants. Many other top nurseries do too. They routinely laboratory assay their plants for virus.

OK, back to your original question, marvelousmarvin. Consumer reports tested many SxS fridges for "temperature Performance". Consumer Reports" "Temperature performance: This combines results of tests measuring the accuracy of initial temperature settings along with how well a model 1) kept optimum temperatures in the refrigerator and freezer at the same time; 2) kept temperatures even throughout each compartment; 3) kept temperatures constant despite changes in room temperatures; and 4) maintained set temperatures even with very high room temperatures." Here are 4 Fridges that received "Excellent Ratings" by using the "Criteria Above". Kitchenaid KitchenAid KSF26C6X[YY] DCS RX215PJX1 Fagor FQ9925XUS Samsung RSG257AA[WP Now as far as dual evaporators go, I posted, maybe a couple years ago, that I thought if was a "Kewl" and ingenious idea, alto as I mentioned not a must have for me, as I have no complaints in my many years of experience with single compressor/single evaporator fridges~~~~~~But in the interest of "Full Disclosure", here is what "some experts say" about the Dual Evaporator Fridges, and I must admit that most of the fridges with excellent temperature performance were Dual evaporator fridges! "Dual evaporators. Air freshness claims have become a noisy part of refrigerator marketing. You'll hear about charcoal filters, ion air purifiers, ethylene absorption packets, and other devices that promise to keep your food fresh. These claims are difficult to measure, but we can tell you one thing that definitely works: dual evaporators, which we've found maintain higher humidity levels in the fresh food section, while also keeping freezer odors from finding their way into the refrigerator. Models with this feature: Samsung RF266AE[WP], $1,700 (CR Best Buy). KitchenAid KSF26C6X[YY], $1,950." Another thing I found in my studies is that the fridges with the digital controls and readouts of the temperatures have the best Fridge Temp Performance. Other things that the experts "Deem Important" The ability to set different temperatures for the different compartments in the fridge~~~~Chrisper, Meat Compartment~~~~etc. That's the one thing I really like about my 2006 JA Fridge. I can set the meat compartment for 31 F, the veggie/fruit bin @ 34 F and the main fridge at 37 F, and they all have digital readouts. Some of the newer fridges have that, (the ability to set different compartments in the fridge at different temps), and it fact, one very expensive fridge gets "dinged" because they don't offer that! Anyway, probably all you ever wanted to know about Fridges and "Then Some"~~~ya thinks?

Thank you SO much everyone! It seems most of you are for the CD fridge. We have a small fridge - the kind found in dorm rooms (not tall and skinny but short) which we could also use but there's no practical space to put that in besides the basement. But our kids aren't allowed to drink soda, my husband keeps only a few beers in the fridge at a time, and I keep my diet cokes in room-temp storage so I don't even know what would go in the small fridge. I'm certainly not willing to keep food down there or regular drinks like juice/milk so I really do think we'd be stuck w/ the CD fridge for most of it. I could keep our old fridge in the basement for holiday meals as well as all the drinks we presently keep in room-temp storage, however I was upgrading to an energy-efficient fridge! why would I want to have the new fridge AND the old fridge, considering that?! Going up in 3 cubic feet in size on for the fridge portion (free food), when I picture gigantic dice of a cubic foot each in size, that seems like a decent (not great, but decent) improvement... (I hope)! Here's what I'm too dumb to figure out: if the fresh food portion of a fridge includes the space in the door/doors - regardless of whether it's a 1990 standard fridge or the new french door kinds - how does that translate based on the new layout? In other words my current old fridge has very little door space; it has only one door and its shelves for condiments and butter. The new fridges have space for at least 2 gallons of milk in the door, but less space for condiments and yet still some space for them. So if the milk will no longer be on the main shelves but in the door, does that mean I'll get all that added space on the main shelves + the additional 3 cubic feet of fridge space? Anyway...thanks for helping me figure all this stuff out!

Ok, folks - let's not jump to conclusions: There's nothing to suggest that it's "Bacteria or viruses" o anything like that. Let's rule something out though: If the drain line was clogged, or draining back, there would be water in the bottom of the dishwasher. We aren't seeing that. I don't think that's the issue. Of course a replacement isn't a bad idea. But it may be good to understand what happened here. I believe strongly that there is a base film of soap/scale from hard water, Then I believe that rust or tannins or both have created the red-brown color. It's slimy because it's soap residue mixed with hard water scale. Clean this up with vinegar as has been explained. I suspect it will take a few run-throughs with vinegar to get it cleaned up (buy the gallon jug of white vinegar). Once that's done, a run through with some bleach in the water wouldn't hurt. I suspect that this is on a well, and the water is very hard. It may not be hot enough also to fully dissolve the soap. The water was so hard at my last house I had to run a cup of vinegar through with each load of dishes. Usually I'd miss the last rinse and have to run an extra rinse. A water softer was a great thing at the new house.