Can't decide between CD fridge and larger cu. ft. fridge
theresse
14 years ago
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judydel
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoweedmeister
14 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
CD Kitchenaid fridge - which one to choose?
Comments (4)I was in your position a while back. The taller one has nicer produce bins ltaller, important to me especially with the reduced capacity due to counter depth) with the satin glide etc and nicer freezer racks/rollouts also. I think also the freezer drawer may have a nicer sliding mechanism. I think the interior of the fridge is significantly larger on the taller one than on the shorter one. I also liked the hidden hinges. So I ponied up the extra and went for it - decided I did not want to skimp and be unhappy with my purchase. It was quite a difference but I have gotten over it now. But, on this topic I want to ask if anyone knows if there is any difference in the quality of the electronics/temperature control on those two models? I ask because my tall one has been perfect since install but a friend just purchased the Jenn Air equivalent of the shorter one and has terrible problems with temperature control. She sets the fridge to 38 and gets below 30 in the crisper bins and has ruined several batches of produce already. The KA and Jenn Air websites are not really clear on whether or not the differences between the models are cosmetic (size, hinges, bins, glides etc) or whether there is also a mechanical/electrical upgrade on the more expensive model....See MoreHelp with Appliance Selection- Induction Range/CD Fridge
Comments (39)Not sure what GE has done with their website, but when I just checked it listed only the slide in and the older freestanding PHB925 (with a list price boosted to $3k) and has no mention of the newly released PHB915. Apparently, they have released the new stove to vendors like AJ Madison but, like Kithcenaid, have not updated their own website. The original model, the PHB925, is now being priced by AJ Madison at $2600 (used to be $2250 a couple of months ago) and Lowe's is now asking $2800 for it (up from $2550 a couple of months ago). The new model, the PHB915, has a similar layout and mostly similar specs (except that AJ Madison is listing the standard KwH ratings for the "925" burners and the "boost" ratings for the "915" burners.) The 915 seems to have a bit more black on the chassis and bit less brushed metal (but still has the neo-Jetson "cat-eye" styling on the oven). There does not seem to be a "proofing" function for the oven but GE added an additional "steam-clean" function so that there are two modes for oven self-cleaning. Somebody here reported that the new model is slightly shallower in depth than the old one. AS Madison has it listed for under $2k. AJ Madison has a link to the manual for the new stove....See MoreDoes anyone have either this GE or KitchenAid CD fridge?
Comments (2)We have had the Kitchenaid for over a year with no problems at all. I much prefer it to the 22cf SxS we replaced. Lots more room in both the fridge and freezer compartments. I though I would miss the water in the door but have no issues with it on the inside. Good luck...See MoreIssue with pantry and fridge next to each other (fridge not CD)?
Comments (7)I have the exact configuration of a full depth refrigerator (ours is SxS, but the door situation is the same idea) next to a pantry. I was worried. I checked. I measured. I worried. It turned out perfect. The pantry door opens beyond 90 degrees. Actually it opens to its full stop which may be 110 degrees. Here's why. The door is about 19 inches wide, which sticks out WAY past the closed refrigerator door. So the cabinet pull can only hit air and since the door approaches the refrigerator at an angle, it goes past the refrigerator door before it extends as far to the side as the refrigerator. I don't know if that makes much sense. I'll post a picture if you haven't already decided against it. I do have a 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 inch refrigerator side panel instead of 3/4 inch so that helps too. I'm not sure if I can hit the refrigerator with the cabinet door if I try intentionally. I think I can, but my point here was that the cabinet door would open past 90 degrees which is necessary for a pull out. Having the refrigerator stick out past the cabinets (standard depth ref.) has another side benefit. It's harder to hit the cabinets with the refrigerator door too. In my case my refrigerator has a stop BEFORE the cabinets. I can force it further, but it stops automatically before the cabinets. If it were counter depth it would probably be too close to the cabinets when open and might hit them. - Jim...See Moreorganic_nettie
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