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Sorry for not getting back here; I've been ill. I doubt that I need to see technical info, because the fact that so many DIFFERENT light patterns come on when I turn on the cycle indicates to me that it's probably the control board (as Richard says) rather than a mechanical problem. On the other hand, it would be interesting to see the manual.... I imagine that replacing the control board would probably be cost-prohibitive, as Richard also says. Nevertheless, since we believe that the best thing we can do environmentally is to avoid buying things, we really hate to throw out a dishwasher that is in most respects perfectly functional. So we've spent a fair amount of time trying to solve this problem. My husband came up with a solution that really helps. I don't understand the principles behind it (he does), but I'll put it here so that others can benefit if this happens to anyone else. If I quickly push the on/off button partway down, release it, and then immediately push it fully, there's a greatly increased chance that the machine will come up functional. This has to be a VERY quick action--a partial light push, followed extremely quickly by a full push. If you push the first time fully, then the second push will turn OFF the machine instead of on, which is very frustrating, especially when you've hit the jackpot and actually turned on the machine! Using this method, I can usually get it to start within the first five attempts. Pushing the on button normally, it has gotten to the point that the dishwasher won't start even in 100 attempts. My son once counted 200 tries before giving up. If NO lights come on, opening and closing the door usually fixes that. I will repeat what I said earlier, for the benefit of other crazy people like us: If only one CYCLE light is on, the dishwasher will run, even if other lights are flashing. I just have to hold down the "start" button down for about three seconds until the other lights stop flashing, then the dishwasher works normally and I can switch to the cycle that I actually want to use. What I really hate is when I accidentally open the machine during a cycle, because then it won't re-start the cycle when the door is closed, but I have to re-run the whole load. My husband is still thinking of calling Miele and replacing the control board, but I'm afraid that would be extremely expensive.

Update... We had Sears fix it back in 2013. However.... It began happening again in January 2018 and we determined it was the pump itself - it worked if it drained into a bucket, but not when using the pump. (No, the drain wasn't clogged -- we checked both the interior piping and the exterior -- no clogs.) My DH got on YouTube and found a very detailed description about how to replace the pump for our exact model! So, my DH ordered the pump from Amazon, got it in two days, and fixed it in a couple of hours. No issues so far and I haven't seen the code since!

What model Honeywell thermostat are you using with your testing? The problem could be you are not getting 24V AC between the R and C connections. The Honeywell may be able to tolerate the low voltage, but the electronics and WiFi radio in the Nest cannot. I would troubleshoot the problem by measuring the voltages at the thermostat terminals.