In case the link is ever broken, cut and paste the PDF file here: Linda Chalker-Scott, Ph.D., Extension Horticulturist and Associate Professor, Puyallup Research and Extension Center, Washington State University The Myth of Gypsum Magic âAdding gypsum to your yard or garden will improve soil tilth and plant healthâ The Myth Upon continued prodding from one of my university extension colleagues, I recently watched several episodes of a well-known gardening program on television. My kids joined me, alerted by my animated responses to the hostâs non-stop torrent of advice. Among many amazing discoveries I learned that by adding gypsum to my yard or garden I would improve my problem soils by changing the particle size and loosening compaction. Further searching on the web revealed that gypsum would also improve drainage, decrease acidity, and eliminate soil salts. Previously, I had heard of gypsum for use in soil reclamation projects, but not for a typical urban landscape. Since gypsum is simply calcium sulfate, could this chemical truly transform soil structure and serve as a fertilizer for yards and gardens? The Reality This myth falls into the category of agricultural practices misapplied to ornamental landscapes. Gypsum effectively changes the structure and fertility of heavy clay soils, especially those that are heavily weathered or subject to intensive crop production. Gypsum also improves sodic (saline) soils by removing sodium from the soil and replacing it with calcium. Therefore, one can see improvement in clay soil structure and fertility, and desalinization of sodium-rich soils, by using gypsum. What other effects will gypsum have on soil and plant health? There are a number of scientific studies on gypsum usage both in the literature and on websites. Briefly, researchers have found: ⢠Gypsum does not usually change soil acidity, though occasional reports of both increasing and decreasing pH exist; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of aluminum, which can detoxify soils but also contaminates nearby watersheds; ⢠Gypsum can increase leaching of iron and manganese, leading to deficiencies of these nutrients; ⢠Gypsum applied to acid soils can induce magnesium deficiency in plants on site; ⢠Gypsum applied to sandy soils can depress phosphorus, copper and zinc transport; ⢠Gypsum can have negative effects on mycorrhizal inoculation of roots, which may account for several reports of negative effects of gypsum on tree seedling establishment and survival; ⢠Gypsum is variable in its effects on mature trees; ⢠Gypsum will not improve fertility of acid or sandy soils; ⢠Gypsum will not improve water holding capacity of sandy soils; and ⢠Gypsumâs effects are short-lived (often a matter of months) With the exception of arid and coastal regions (where soil salts are high) and the southeastern United States (where heavy clay soils are common), gypsum amendment is just not necessary in non-agricultural areas. Urban soils are generally amalgamations of subsoils, native and non-native topsoils, and - in home landscapes - high levels of organic and non-organic chemical additives. They are also heavily compacted and layered (and gypsum does not work well on layered soils). In such landscapes, it is pointless to add yet more chemicals in the form of gypsum unless you need to increase soil calcium levels. This nutrient deficiency can be quickly identified by any soil testing laboratory for less than a bag of gypsum costs. (If you need to improve sulfur nutrition, itâs wiser to use ammonium sulfate). To reduce compaction and improve aeration in nearly any landscape, application of an organic mulch is more economically and environmentally sustainable. The Bottom Line ⢠Gypsum can improve heavy clay soil structure and remove sodium from saline soils ⢠Gypsum has no effect on soil fertility, structure, or pH of any other soil type ⢠Most urban soils are not improved by additional gypsum ⢠Before adding gypsum or any chemical to a landscape, have soil analysis performed to identify mineral deficiencies, toxicities, and soil character ⢠Adding gypsum to sandy or non-sodic soils is a waste of money, natural resources, and can have negative impacts on plant, soil, and ecosystem health For more information, please visit Dr. Chalker-Scottâs web page at http://www.theinformedgardener.com.

North side: open shade in the middle of the bed...few hours of sun on each end of the bed...in the morning on one end, and in the afternoon on the other end. * Dwarf Pampass grass * Sweet Flag * Tassle Fern * Autumn Fern * Big Blue Liriope * Hostas (various, do great in the shade on a North wall) * Cleyera (fabulous glossy leaves. new growth is red, turning to green as it matures) * Lamium (Golden Anniversary, White Nancy...both varieties provide bright spots in the shade but they won't appreciate damp shade...leaves get mushy) * Ivy * Gumpo Azalea (stays compact. can't kill it. I can't, anyway.) * Camellia Japonica (Marie Bracey var.) * Vinca Minor (spreads like crazy and some people don't care for it. Personally, I like that it spreads so fast, and it has pretty lavender flowers..just cut it back when it starts to creep too far) On the South side of the house: * Nandina Domestica (mine have required virtually no care and look beautiful. I have 5 of them planted and right now they are a brilliant red. There are dwarf varieties available which stay compact and still provide that red color in the winter) * Soft Touch Holly ( stays compact and mine have been maintenance-free, with the exception of occassional watering during periods of drought last summer. very slow growers and great as a filler plant) * Blue Shore Juniper ( compact and very pretty color..have been maintenance-free and have looked magnificent all winter) I did have Wintercreeper growing on this side of the house, too, but it got some sort of borer insects and never did do well, despite application of a treatment for the bugs. I dug it up a few days ago and tossed it. I have roses growing in front of the house, by our front door, and they face due west....so I'd wager that they'd do well for you, too, in that position. I cut ours back too hard last Fall and I thought I'd killed one of them because it started oozing and didn't look well at all. Nope...it's growing like mad at the moment. Our electric lines are the only lines that don't run under ground, here. It would be a good idea to find out where yours are located because while digging a bed for my Sago Palm last year I cut into our cable line....looked just like a pine tree root. *blush* They came out and fixed it for free, but the guy said if I did it again he'd take my Sago away. LOL. Anyway, all the plants I've listed provide interest year round, with the exception of the Hostas, which die back once freezing weather sets in. They will come back, though, when it warms up again. Everything is just now in its second year...ie., it all got planted last year. We only purchased our home 2 years ago and I didn't get around to landscaping the property until last Spring. BTW, if I can figure out how to upload my pictures of the plants I've listed, I'll post them. I took pics. last fall of all my beds but they're in a file on our computer, not hosted. Good Luck and I apologize for the novella.

Is there plumbing in the shear wall? Swinging the door toward the toilet is a much better choice because it not only provides a bit more privacy if someone begins to enter when the toilet is occupied but also because it would not cause an "awkward flow" and it would not be necessary to "squeeze between the vanity and the door" or "go behind the door to use the toilet". In reality, when entering to use the toilet, you would open the door to about 60 degrees, place a foot beyond the edge of the door and swing the door closed while pivoting and stepping back to latch the door, then you would have a clear path to the toilet. You would make the same or similar movement regardless of the door swing or the clearance to the vanity. If the door is bought but not installed, the cost to correct the error would be for a new door unless this one can be used elsewhere or on another project or returned for partial credit. No one should judge who is at fault without speaking with all of the parties involved. In any case, it is in owner's interest to find a solution to any problem in a collaborative spirit before dealing with who should pay for it. IMO reversing the door swing is a better design than both the original pocket door or the design shown on the drawing above.

This color is a nice neutral and I like the white trim that make the details of this room pop. Before deciding on the pieces, I would think more about the configuration of the room. I love that you are not putting a TV in here and will use it for reading instead. I suggest making a sitting area near the back windows because it lets in so much natural light. It will be a perfect place to read during the day without having to depend on lamps as much. And, it creates its own space that does not depend on the red or sea foam color influence. For a back of the room reading area, I would: 1. Define the space with a rug. I'd go for something neutral that blends more with the room instead of using the rugs you chose that are such an intense contrast. What about jute with a dark grey binding for texture, or a trellis pattern but not as contrasting as the navy and white you chose? 2. Get an upholstered cushion made for the built in bench under the window. Such a great reading nook, looks maybe big enough for two to snuggle and read! Nice soft window treatment, and maybe sconces or art hung on either side of the window. Toss your current sofa pillows over there to start to give you an idea of that as soft hang out space. 3. I like the idea of putting the sofa in front of the window with a coffee table in the middle and two grey Pottery Barn chairs across from it, facing the sofa. The only problem is that your sofa is pretty high in the back and I don't know how it would look to have it cutting off the bottom of the windows. It is free to move around furniture so give it a try! 4. Going with more neutral colors - tan, grey, beige, maybe a hint of navy and pops of rust means you should throw in some texture to the equation. That can come from a jute rug, fluffy blankets, and shiny objects. (Mercury glass objects?) Plus maybe a coffee table that has some texture of reflective quality. Here are some ideas for the back reading space: Rute rug, gray border Patterned rugs that have grey and other colors Examples of living room window seats: For the middle and front space, I have a few different ideas, but would like to hear more about what you need as a function of this room. Do you have any furniture you own and are looking for a different space to house it in? Do you need more storage for any particular kind of item? (Boots, purses, backpacks?) Do you have a home office or need space for that kind of work?