Yes, of course the blace can warp. Have you ever accidentally run it dry? Heat builds up very quickly. Or, it could be that the blade is not attached as well as it should be, or that the arm(s) the blade is attached to have bent. Any number of things can happen to knock things just a little askew.

It can, but it also might be something else. If you're cutting a hard material now, like porcelain, it could also cause the blade to veer off if it needs to be dressed. Do you remember how I told you to dress the blade?

Ah, thanks, Bill (and alice). Yes, I remember about dressing the blade-we have some perfect pieces of brick to do it; I'll try it tomorrow. Thanks.

Alice, I can honestly say I've never cut anything with the blade dry. It's always been wet. And the blade is attached pretty firmly--can't budge it (hesitated to try too hard).

I'll try dressing it and see if that helps.

flyleft - Hopefully dressing the blade will do the trick. I only asked about running it dry because I went to quickly cut a piece last week and mid-way through realized I hadn't waited for the cooling water to start flowing. I should not assume others do such silly things. On the bright side, I have a brand new, shiny blade now after replacing my old one.

Some saw mounts have flex in the arm that mounts the motor to the saw table. I don't know what type of saw you're using. But knowing you it's a good one! I've heard many flex nasties about the tile saws that look like an angle grinder mounted overhead the saw table.

But as has been mentioned, dress the blade. Sharper cutting is better. That tends to make a lot of cutting problems go away, especially ones like you are describing.

Also, Fly, if you're talking about a clay brick, that won't help. You want a concrete brick, like a patio block. That'll wear down the metal on the blade and show diamond, whereas the clay from the brick will actually clog the pores of the blade, making it cut worse.

Returning to this...

Yes, thanks, Bill it was a patio block, which still created a lot of sediment, but the diamond is sparkling. Nevertheless, the blade still pulls to the left, even after obsessive lining up with a large L square, once the whole blade is engaged--it also makes more wobbly vibration than it used to, seems to me.

Do you think a new blade will solve the problem? (the blade that's on there I can't read anymore--I remember it was a good blade even for engineered stone, though -- it's got light blue on it, no segmentation--can't remember what it was!)or do I need something else done? I see there's something called a Raimondi T3 -- what do folks think of that?

Should I just somehow get it serviced to help reduce the vibration or should I see if a blade change makes a difference? I seem to recall that no one sells Felkers anymore in Portland (did they merge with another company?) so I can't get local service? I need to get to this countertop done, and I have some 24" cuts to make--I need a straight saw!

Thanks.

I seem to recall that no one sells Felkers anymore in Portland (did they merge with another company?They and Target are now both Husqvarna, but yes, your saw will still be serviced by Husky. Personally, I'd try a different blade, first. If the vibration still continues, it might be the bearings on the blade shaft, in which case, it'll need servicing.

That's it, right--Husqvarna. I'll go step by step in your recommended order--I figure a new blade is less than servicing, so smallest steps first, right?

Thanks!