There are 3 methods in a sound reduction design: mass , resiliency and absorption in order of effectiveness. Hanging quilts is not one of them; a quilt will simply reduce the degree to which sound bounces within a room by absorbing some of it which adds to your comfort but it doesn't reduce sound transfer from another room or floor. The most effective method is to thicken the wall material and increase its mass so that sound simply can't vibrate it and transfer energy to the air on the other side. Masonry is better than gypsum board. Mass loaded vinyl is a thin version of this method. The second most effective (and thinner) method is to build a surface that can move when sound energy strikes it. The most common way is to put resilient channels behind gypsum board or to use special gypsum board with a resilient core or to adhere gypsum board with a resilient adhesive. The third method is absorption which is not very effective but it can help when the other methods have been neglected ⦠and it can't hurt. As sound passes through insulation it loses some of its energy but the thickness of a wall is not enough to make much of a difference. However, when sound enters through a crack on one side of the wall and tries to exit through a crack on the other side, the sound is forced to travel some distance though the wall cavity and that can be enough absorption to make a difference. Insulation in a wall with a door is of little or no use. It also helps to prevent back to back electrical outlets and ducts grilles and to use heavy doors with small undercuts or perimeter gaskets. Old doors sometimes have "drop seals" that drop to close the gap under the door when the door closes. It also helps to not put bathrooms above living spaces and to avoid long horizontal waste pipe runs. When waste pipes are above living spaces it is best to use cast iron pipes and quick flushing quiet toilets.

I Have A Toshiba model cf2048 chassis 8801, with a sound problem,sound and picture is fine when I play a DVD,but when I switch to cable the sound is bad,"motorboats"at around 60 hz...is it a capacitor?

Greetings, I inherited a 52" projection TV that has been built into the wall with a Philips frame, souround in-cieling and wall speakers, etc. by the previous owner. I'd like to be able to fix this without having get rid of the TV and having to patch a BIG hole in the wall, since paying for and finding a TV to fit the hole and frame would be a challenge. Of course I'd have an extra closet in the other room to use if I replaced it with a flat paneled screen! ;) The images come up fine, although it looks like the bulbs may need to be cleeaned - a little hazy, but thats another story and purhaps I can do it while I'm in there dealing with the main issue... The sound will do a "pop" after about 3-5 minutes of viewing in the morning and then there will be no sound other than a constant "ticking" going on in the rear speakers. Turning off and on doesn't seem to reset any thing, so it either seems to need to sit a log time in off, or left on and sometimes it "comes back after 25-20 minutes, or not at all. Sometimes it works perfectly for the duration of thte viewing. I'm sure you can see how this could be very disappointing when sitting down with popcorn and a rented movie! Like I said, I inherted this, so the best route to opening the big lug would be appreciated also! Be well, IMFSHN

It is common for the audio to be a bit lower in volume on HD versus analog tv. But it is not normal to hear the hiss on HD channels. I doubt it is the TV. Most likely the cable feed. Just don't be surprised when the cable tv tech says something like "Everything is within spec".