I thought it was a classic floating floor installation problem. It has all the signs, except I missed the comment about middle of the room. Likely to be one of these two products...solid, nailed or stapled over a wood sub floor (note basement in photos) http://www.lumberliquidators.com/ll/s/Cocoa%20Birch Definitely call the installer back. IâÂÂm finding moisture (shrinkage in winter) not being the issue as itâÂÂs not evident across the entire installation. Just here and there? IâÂÂm guessing this is also out of the GC hands? Floor installed after closing? As far as product problems with LL. Unfortunately thereâÂÂs a long wait there (many don't get resolved) and you may find more peace by handling the problem with the installer. IâÂÂve heard many of the nightmares. IâÂÂm looking at all angles for you. Any thoughts of wiping some stain into the cracks? It may sound like a cheap fix, but some are fine by it when you weigh all the facts that will also include inconveniences and frustration in replacement. The middle of the room? That canâÂÂt be spot fixed in my opinion, unless the boards affected show a manufacturing problem. Are they narrower in width?

Thanks everyone. I'll pass along the compliments to Hubby. (Funny aside; As he was showing me the finished product he said "Now you can take a picture...") raehelen: The finish is the Land Ark stuff posted above. One coat of the pre-mixed TransTint finish and then two coats of the concentrated finishing oil. trailrunner: He's learning as we go (did I mention he's very smart and talented and persistent?). Wet sanding basically means you sand with really find grit sandpaper while the finish is still really wet. Here's a more technical description: "Apply the oil finish liberally, and gently sand it along the grain of the wood with 400 or 600 grit wet sandpaper. This will create a thin paste, which actually seals the wood grain and protects the wood. Wipe it off extremely thoroughly once all the wood is saturated and let it dry. It is important to remove every bit of excess from the wood. Wipe until your cloth is coming off clean."

I didn't comment on the shower curtain, because I was a bit confused. By needing an extra long curtain, I didn't know if you meant height or width? I assumed you meant floor to ceiling, but if so, how would a standard liner work, but not a standard curtain? I assumed you were using an L bracket rod mounted at standard height (looks like a standard shower/tub enclosure)? But maybe not?! Are you planning to mount a ceiling rod? Sorry, I'm just not following ,,, Well regardless, here are a few comments: 1) My number one priority would be to properly manage moisture (keep as dry as possible). 2) If at possible, I would first look to using a standard (72x72) curtain (it will be cheaper, you will have more options, and you can more easily change up the look). 3) Start with a good liner mounted at the proper height (not too short and not too long) that doesn't fly around. 4) Whatever I hung in that area, I would want it to be moisture/mildew resistent, provide ventilation/wicking, have rust proof hardware, etc As such, I would first look to a quality shower curtain, which are available in taller lengths. If looking at drapes, I would probably start with indoor/outdoor drapes. Regarding your question on the door, I would probably paint it white/neutral (or faux pine) because I would not want the door to be a focal point, but rather have it blend in. As far as color scheme ,,, on my monitor the tile looks like it has blue undertones, so maybe blue rugs and towels (with a couple of red accent towels), a pattern shower curtain (e.g. a tartan plaid with blue, gray, red, and browns). A red waste basket. Art work that has red, blue, gray, brown, etc... You'll have lots of good options!! Here is a link that might be useful: Trax ceiling shower rods

Estimate for Hardie? I didn't but only b/c we got got the painting done for "only" $8k (note that I have a dutch colonial: brick 1st floor, only painting to be done was 2nd floor (white cedar shingles) and tiny kitchen porch railings and 6 window shutters.) This was after estimates for $15k and $12k IIRC. If we were planning to stay here long term I'd definitely reside next time. (Would research to see whats new first. There's a faux cedar shingle called "Cedar Impressions" another 1920s house used. They also have color choices like Hardieboard. That home looks new still - been at least 5 years since they resided. In another part of my town with tear downs/new construction: all have composite siding - so I'd go find out what they have. I don't ever see new builds with wood siding here.) As I get older anything I can do to make maintenance easier/less often is worth considering. I'd guess that the labor hours for residing is similar to that of painting - so probably wouldn't cost that much more. (Labor is, by far, the biggest cost to paint - sounds like in your area too as goodness knows paint doesn't cost $15k.) But finding a skilled carpenter is probably harder than finding a painter here.