lisab, "IF"....again, IF the outside method was done correctly and IF the original problem(s)/leak(s) were DUE-to cracks or other openings/penetrations below ground THROUGH the basement wall in those areas then, NO inside system was necessary, period. 90% or so of ALL wet/leaky basements are due-to OUTSIDE cracks/pathways. An experienced/honest waterproofing contractor will 'FIRST' DEFINE the problem, thing is...many in THIS business are NOT experts and/or NOT exactly honest. I`ll say again, most homeowners problems/reasons are to why/how/where WATER FIRST ENTERS is on the OUTSIDE. You state they dug down to footing, waterproofed, backfilled w/peastone etc....how do you KNOW for certain they did? lolol...many SAY they do and then do NOT, they do NOT dig all the way down, they do NOT backfill with ALL peastone, they may only has applied a 'damproofing coating'. Damproofing is NOT Waterproofing. Some say they dig down but, they only dig-down 1-3', this will NOT solve/stop all water-entry problems-through-wall(s)....no no no. Seems to me, they may have dug down 1-3'....and thats why they installed an Inside System along inside perimeter. 29 years we`ve been waterproofing basements, ONLY waterproofing-nothing else, have NO/ZERO customer complaints....ever. And have NEVER installed 1 inside system, not 1. Like i say, 90% of the problems are Outside, anyone pushing these Inside Systems on homeowners does so with limited-overall-knowledge of basement waterproofing and foundations. If you search BBB, you`ll see MANY Co`s who rather or ONLY install Inside-systems have 10,25,50+++ customer COMPLAINTS within the LAST 36 MONTHS, lolol. What does that tell anyone with common sense? You say you see/notice.. 'dampness'on FLOOR along area where they waterproofed and sounds like inside system was also done....so, that dampness COULD be there for a couple reasons. Again, IF they didn`t waterproofed entire depth of wall then, that could be why OR...they only backfilled with minimal peastone and backfilled the rest of trench with the same soil, NOT A GOOD IDEA. If they only applied a thin-damproof-coating AND backfilled with some/alot of same soil then, the settling/compaction of the same soil may have pulled down the thin-coating and RE-exposed part of basement wall/part of a crack. OR.....the dampness could-be there because THEY tore up a strip of basement floor and left opening/gap/space between the wall and floor, this can CAUSE Dampness, doesn`t mean wall is leaking. OR... you could have a partial blockage UNDER the bsmt floor which could cause the water-level under the floor, in certain areas, to rise up. This too could cause dampness on floor/along where wall and floor meet. Remedy for this would be IF there is a sump, have exp`d-honest plumber SNAKE tile in sump/under floor and/or, snake storm trap clean out. Inside drain tile or baseboard systems do NOT stop/prevent water entry through ANY part of basement wall thus, can not stop/prevent mold/efflorescence/cracks widening/bowing of a wall. All they do is...divert water that will STILL ENTER, under the floor, it should keep most of the water OFF the basement floor but again, will not stop water from entering and will not stop dampness etc. 6th paragraph http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/marineclay.htm#2 http://www.askthebuilder.com/NH058_-_Waterproofing_Foundations.shtml ---Wet Basements.... read question `n answers 1 and 5 especially! http://www.shakeronline.com/dept/building/FAQ.asp why foundations fail http://www.bobvila.com/HowTo_Library/Why_Foundations_Fail-Foundation-A2095.html http://www.askthebuilder.com/015_Exterior_Foundation_Wall_Waterproofing.shtml Mold? http://www.des.state.nh.us/pdf/MOLD_in_Homes_Web.pdf efflorescence http://www.marshallconcrete.com/41 radon, how does it ENTER? http://www.epa.gov/radon/pubs/physic.html#Character http://radon.utoledo.edu/remedy_mech.html insects/termites enter through openings/pathways on outside http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/tips8.htm Basement BACK-ups upon FLOODING...lateral line etc http://msdgc.org/downloads/wib/common_causes_wet_basement.pdf

To answer some of your questions: I dampen & then moisturize my face before applying foundation & after that dries I use concealer & then pressed powder to rid the shine. Maybe if I left the shine from the foundation that would be the dewy look but yet I find it greasy looking & am not fond of that either, ugh! Maybe I'm using the wrong terms in ref to light reflecting or illuminating but what I am refering to are cosmetics I've seen on shopping chanels & they are supposed to be better for mature skin b/c they "diffuse" the light supposedly making one look air brush & not focusing on the lines. I don't have many lines - I'm 38 & have been told I look like 25 but who doesn't want to take advantage of technology & look better & more youthful when possible. I also think some of these wands highlighters are used more to highlight the good features so yur eyes is drawn away from the darker or worse features. I was hoping someone had had experience with them to see how they REALLY work. I don't use waterproof foundation but I think it's long lasting. It's lightweight & washes off with soap & water & it's the perfect light coverage to even out my skin tone duringthe winter month. The only problem I have with my current foundaiton is I was hoping to have the same quality LONG LASTING product without the matte look. Using moisurizer, which I do in my opinion makes no differnece b/c moisutrizer dries. The reason I use it is to help the foundation glide more smoothly & evenly. I am definitely not interested in mixing colors. Finding the color isn't the problem. Maybe in yrs past when I'd get that ring around the mouth maybe I didn't do such a good job of color matching & maybe I should give the newer products a try even though they don't claim to be long lasting. Ponderinstuff~ I'd be interested in the name of the product you use if you have it. Thanks everyone. Michie

What is behind the wall, a full basement? The bottom of a veneer brick wall system should have thru-wall flashing and weeps. Below this level the brick cavity should be filled solid. The important thing is whether or not the thru-wall flashing and weeps are located above grade. If the flashing is below grade the wall will not be able to drain. I would probably use spray-on modified-bitumen waterproofing but self-adhering modified-bitumen can work with the proper primer and top edge treatment. Brush applied damproofing would serve no real purpose. I just got a proposal to fill the 2" x 24" high cavity in a double-wythe brick wall by pressure injecting high strength grout into it. The cost is going to be about $200 per horizontal foot of wall. This is being done in order to stabilize a load bearing above-grade brick foundation wall. In the case of a brick veneer wall, I can't imagine that there would be much horizontal pressure in the first foot of grade and at two feet below grade the pressure would depend on how fine the soil is and how well drained it is.

There are 3 separate things to consider: 1. The natural water table. Groundwater levels vary seasonally and from year to year. It is important to build the basement floor level higher than the highest level of the water table. If this is not possible, an inside sump and dewatering system is essential. Water will inevitably enter the basement if the surrounding ground water table rises above the floor level. It is VERY important to learn about the natural groundwater table before you do anything else. 2. Perimeter drains and waterproofing. French drains around the perimeter of the foundation must be built properly with perforated pipe, porous granular drain rock, and geotextile fabric, to collect liquid water while filtering sediments. Additionally, the exterior of the foundation must be coated with multiple layers of asphaltic emulsion to make a waterproof membrane. 3. Surface drainage- the grade outside the home should slope away from the foundation on all sides. The downspouts from the roof shall be diverted into the storm drain system, or into solid pipes discharging at least several feet away from the foundation. If research indicates the groundwater table is ever at or above the level of your basement floor, you need to design a dewatering system for INSIDE the basement walls. A perforated pipe around the inside perimeter of the foundation, under the slab, some weep holes, a sump pit in one corner, might be a necessary secondary drainage system, if the water table is high.