You should check out Kobe hoods - they make a wide variety of styles and sizes. Go for the ones with baffles, not oil cups. I believe they're inexpensive relative to other brands. Here is a link that might be useful: Kobe hoods

I may have left out some words due to repetition. The number of square feet refers to the entry aperture of the hood. For example, a 36 x 24 hood aperture would be 6 square feet, and would require 6 x 90 = 360 CFM actual, likely needing a blower rated at 540 CFM. Pressure loss not only entails the ducting, but the baffles and the MUA path. Leaky walls are not exactly a free path for air. A leaky house may be sufficient for MUA in practice (given that the blower rating takes the pressure loss into account), but the OP may live where aggressive code enforcement will demand at least a damper in a duct to the outside. The rationale for 90 ft/min is based on ensuring entrainment into baffle gaps that typically are around 50% of the baffle area and have to deal with upward plume velocities of as much as 1.2 m/s. See also the table (Figure 4) on page 9 of the Greenheck Guide available here: https://www.tagengineering.ca/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/KVSApplDesign_catalog.pdf The discussion leading to that table should prove useful for background information. In particular, the Greenheck method vs. the linear feet of hood edge (all the way around for an island hood) method is discussed. (Note commercial cooking rarely is true island type; even located in the middle of a kitchen the hood is connected to the cooktop via a back section. There may also be side skirts on the hood.) Last, let me point out that capture can fail under cross draft conditions, which are almost always worse for island/peninsula configurations than wall configurations.

Welcome. You have stepped into a minefield, some of which I fear was planted by me. Here is the home of perfect is the enemy of good enough; good enough is the enemy of inexpensive. In my view, long before choosing a brand, one should determine requirements. I won't repeat the process here; you can find many examples by searching threads that I've commented on, as well as by others whose comments may be found in such threads. Some mine markers include: Need for make-up air (MUA), informal, formal passive, formal active Possible need to heat the MUA Need for sufficient capture area Need for sufficient volumetric flow rate <==> hood intake air velocity Need for operating within a range of duct velocities Fact that blower specified flow rate applies to hanging freely in the air, not within a system Relative merits of mesh vs. baffle filters Relative merits of "magic lung" squirrel cage impingement filtering vs. baffle filtering. Several threads, including recent ones, have references that should be of help.

Capture area (hood intake aperture area) should overlap the expanding cooking plumes. Assume at least 10 degrees from vertical for all points across the top area of all likely pots and pans to be used on any or the hobs, and add some for burner flames if applicable. This implies that the capture area has to grow with height, and doesn't account for plume deviations due to cross drafts and human motion turbulence. Capture areas smaller than this will likely miss capturing effluent and the effluent will spread into the house where it either condenses on walls and fabrics, or is eventually removed from air replacement. Numerous threads here discuss sizing the hood, sizing the flow rate to assure that even if the plumes are captured they don't reflect out of the hood, sizing the duct for best balance between grease collection due to impingement and grease collection due to condensation, blower rated CFM to achieve desired CFM, and make-up air (MUA). Quieting of the hood system can be achieved using a remote blower and intermediate silencer such as Fantech makes. A 6-inch duct should be limited to 400 CFM, so a 600 CFM rated blower might be appropriate given typical pressure losses and blower fan curves. 10 x 4 duct, from a pressure loss point of view is equivalent to 5.7-inch round duct. (IRC Table M1506.2). For a given blower restricted by duct size, it is probably better to use a larger hood and miss out on some extreme cooking capture due to insufficient CFM, then to miss out full plume capture on all cooking due to insufficient area to overlap the plumes.