The drain unscrews from the assembly below the tub. Normally the drain and overflow are all one assembly. If you have access to the back/underside of the tub it's a lot easier, because you can control both the drain basket from the top and the nut that captures the threads on the basket from below. However, you can try to replace the basket just using access from above. Easiest way is with a tool called a "basket wrench": An inexpensive basket wrench costs maybe $5 to $10 at a hardware store. You can see how this would lock on to the cross pieces in the basket and allow you to rotate the basket counterclockwise to unthread it. Or you can use the standard DIY method which is to insert two sturdy screwdrivers into the basket, one at the 9 o'clock position and one in the 3 o'clock position, and cross the screwdrivers and use that leverage to rotate the basket. Once the basket is removed, clean the tub surface and install a new basket using a bead of plumbers putty. I will say that the proper way, and the best way, is to have access from below. It's best to set the basket into the putty and then secure it by rotating the nut from below instead of rotating the basket from above.

mollie, If your tub didn't come with a manual, you can go on most any manufacturer's website to see how they want their tub installed. Some want them set in a bed of mortar, some choose their tubs to be glued to the subfloor with construction adhesive. Some people recommend foam, but foam flexes and it's something I'd never use. I almost always set tubs in a bed of mortar. It does two things: It gives absolute support, and it allows me to level the tub if the floor is slightly out of level. For a drop-in, you want to set the tub so the rim of the tub just touches the deck of the tub. You don't want the tub hanging by the rim, or it can lead to the tub eventually cracking, as their isn't enough reinforcment in the tub to support it by the rim. Ususlly no additional framing is needed to support the weight of a tub. If you wanted to elevate the tub, you could build a platform for it to sit on. Then the weight of the tub would be transferred to the fdootprint of the larger platform, reducing the "pounds per square foot" lod placed on your floor framing. As far as insulation, you can use canned foam, commercial spray foam, or wrap it in fiberglass. Or if it's a circulating tub, you can add an aftermarket in-line water heater for about $250. If you use canned or spray foam to insulate the tub, if it's a jetted or circulating tub, be careful where the foam goes. You don't want it to screw up your tub's plumbing. Mongo

For a jetted tub used as a shower, it has to have an integral tile flange. That allows the wall cladding to overhang and any water that hits the wall to not go behind your walls. There aren't that many in that size that are inexpensive. It will need a specialized drain, and, if you want to spend any time in the tub, a supplemental heater so the water doesn't cool off so fast. Since it's a tub/shower, the wall cladding will need to be redone to be waterproof into the tub. It's possible, if the build is recent, and it was done with the proper vapor barrier behind it, that only one row of the tile would need to be pulled in order to replace the tub. But, I wouldn't count on that. I'd count on having to replace all of the wall cladding in the alcove. That can be as cheap as a plastic surround for around $100 or cheap tile with the proper vapor barrier for probably $150 or so. The first is the easiest and the least chance of leaking. The second will read as more upscale, but you have to be sure your contractor understands about the vapor barrier and correct materials to use to tile this (NOT mastic.) And since you have that torn out, it would be foolish to try to keep your current control valves for the bath unless they are also very new. New safety standards are in place for anti scald mechanisms. So, you will need a new shower/bath faucet and valve. Then you will need the electrical line run from the panel to the location for the whirlpool pump and supplemental heater. That location is usually opposite the drain side of the tub. You will need to be able to site an access panel that is removable to be able to get to the electrical innards here. That can be from an adjacent room, or from a hidden panel on the tub itself. All in all, you might be able to get all of the needed materials for 2-3K if you shop the box stores carefully and find some bargains. The danger to that is that if you are inexperienced, you don't know if you're buying quality or crap. They sell both. And that's one reason that it would be simpler to let the pro pick the products after you tell him the features that you want. Then you've got to pay the contractor labor to install all of that. The electrician's price will depend on how difficult it will be to access the panel and run the wire to the location. For that, it's a really good thing you are on a crawlspace! That makes it cheaper for both the electrician and the plumber. On the whole, I'd expect your project to cost between 5-7K, depending on location, and if you have no DIY skills to bring to the table and have to hire professionals for the whole job. And be sure that you hire someone that is licensed and insured to be in your home, and will pull the proper permits to get the job inspected with your code office. Some handyman guy isn't licensed to do electrical of that nature, and while he might be able to do the demo and get the tub in place and glue on the plastic surround, it's unlikely that he'll have the right insurance to deal with a large job like that, and thus probably wont' want to pull permits and be inspected. They are usually limited to smaller jobs like simple fixture replacements like a faucet or light. Which this isn't. Just remember, you are doing a project that combines electricity and water. You really have to know what you're doing here! A small General Contractor should be able to do the complete job, and also carry the needed papers. And he should have no problem with the code guys coming in to inspect his work either. If he does, then he's not the right person for the job.

I have 2 windows (with faux wood blinds covering them thank you) at right angles above the tub in the master bath, so no wall art there. However, I do have a prominent piece of wall separating 2 mirrors over our vanities.........This wall is crying for something but I haven't found it. The other day, I saw some really pretty decorative wall clocks and have been thinking about that. For some reason I wasn't sure if it would be odd to have a pretty wall clock hanging there, although honestly it kind of makes sense. What do you think? The ones I saw (at Ross or TJMaxx) were round and had nice detailed frames. I am linking a nice substantial one I just saw on the o site, just wondering what the decorating experts here think of a decorative clock as a piece of décor in a bathroom.square not round but a pretty clock