If he did not want to install your equipment I wouldn’t have a problem with that at all. As long as he installs your wire correctly you will be fine. You can actually install the equipment yourself if you like which isn't that hard to do at all. There are many tutorials and videos online to show you how to do it correctly. For keypads you would just be punching down some cat and speaker wires (positive and negative) are self-explanatory. HTD is a great source of showing you how and what to do. If that isn't something you want to do you can easily find someone who can come in and install them for you once you move in with no problem. If you are building I can already tell you that builders like to charge a premium for this as they have access to the house while the walls are open and it’s so much easier to run wires. Not sure what it cost in your area looking back at my paperwork our charged $340 for one room of prewire. This consisted of (1) cat5e & (1) 16/4 homerun from each keypad back to the main hub area and (2) 16/2 speaker wire runs from the keypad up to the ceiling area. This is the preferred method of wiring as it will offer you the options in the future to change zones/sub-zone around or choose an amplified or a-bus system. I personally am not a fan of a-bus and will be going with the HTD mid-level system as well. The keypad areas have blank plates you can remove and pull the wire thru at a later date. The speaker wires were ran to the ceiling area where each speaker would be and connect to ceiling joist with a twist tie behind the drywall (I would not have speakers wires pulled to a box in the ceiling because I didn't want blank plates on my ceiling before I installed the speakers). This would allow you to pull the speaker wire anytime you were ready to install speakers and not have speaker wires dangling from your ceiling. After he finishes wiring the house it will be very important for you to go in and takes lots of pictures and video would be great as well. This way you will know where everything is behind the walls and avoid poking holes in drywall looking for wire. I had planned for 12 zone of whole house audio (6 zones and 6 sub zones). A sub zone is a zone that piggy backs off a main zone and have to play what the main zone is playing. A sub zone is controlled by a volume control. Therefore my charge would have been from the builder $4,000 plus not including any equipment just to wire my house. That was absolutely crazy to me and something I was not willing to pay for. Not sure if you will have the option or even wanted to but I ended up pre-wiring my own house. I spent about $1,000 worth of wire (cat5e, 16/4 speaker wire, 16/2 speaker wire, 12 gauge wire, RG6QC wire, misc. item) and over three days with my nephew’s help was able to finish. I would also suggest while the walls are open you go ahead and decide if you want to run 5.1 or 7.1 for surround sound speakers and have those wires run as well. I would also have them run hdmi cables as well (I didn't and ended up having to climb in the attic as my equipment is across the room from my TV). Now if you don't have the option to run your own wire and are looking for ways to save some money here are a few options: 1. Use cat5e instead of cat6. I won't get into the debate of which catxx cable is better but do your research and you will see cat5e will suffice for whole house audio and any data you need in your house as well. 2. Look to see what type of attic access you have. If you have a two story house some rooms will be virtually impossible to get to without tearing out drywall, etc. So if you want whole audio in those rooms, I would make them a priority on the 1st floor to get pre-wired. If you do have attic access and are handy those rooms whether on 1st of 2nd floor can be done at a later date (don't forget your patio also :) 3. For areas over fireplaces or where TV’s will go have them run conduit(flex tubing) so if technology changes you can run your new wire thru the conduit. 4. If you haven't thought about it I would also run future tubes from basement to 1st floor or if no basement from 1st floor to 2nd floor so that you can have the option of running wires later. Most builders are going to recommend high end systems like Russound, Nuvo, etc. For my needs HTD and Monoprice speakers will fit our needs. It all basically depends on how handy you are and what your budget is. As I'm sure you are aware now the pre-wiring can add up quickly so prioritize your needs versus wants and go from there. Did I need 12 zones of audio? NO, but that is what I wanted and luckily I was able to run it myself. If I didn’t have that option all of the rooms on the 1st floor I didn’t have access to from the attic and I wanted audio would have definitely got pre-wired and the 2nd floor would have waited. Hope it helps, Chris

Hi, grandms Yeah, since my main interest is in YouTube vids at this point, I was hoping to avoid downloading a whole separate program for this. It seems that not all YT videos are html5, so I may start to play one in Opera (with the WebM Plus extension) and it will not play correctly. By the same token, when I open a video in FF or Comodo [Chrome] and right-click the video area, it will often give menu options for Adobe Flash Player. I suppose at this point it's a matter of waiting for YT to get everything switched over to html5 format. (Can they 'retrofit' videos for that, or will videos already made not be upgraded ?) At that time I imagine YT users won't need the Adobe player any longer and will only have YT's own player ?? Oh, well. I'll keep playing around with this.... (It's a slow start to the new year.) :-)

I am having the same problem too. I get audio but the video takes forever to load and doesn't really play at all - stays frozen. I have a couple of guys on another computer forum working on my problem. I used to be able to watch the game drives at Wildearth.tv but they picture is now frozen for me. They seem to think it has something to do with my Flash programme. They are taking me through a lot of steps to determine what is wrong with my Flash player. I am headed there right now to see what tests they want me to do next. Anne

I've not run into the specific situation. Diagnosis is tricky without examination. The weight of the load, towels or anything else, shouldn't reasonably be a significant factor in spin RPM. An aspect of towels as such that may come into play is that they hold more water than other items ... the basket rotation can get impaired if extracted water collects in the tub but that'll get resolved when the pump catches up. Is a foreign object or sock perhaps escaped from the basket and blocking the tub drain port? The motor should be OK if it operates at all, in all the speeds, and in both directions. A failed or weak capacitor would cause it a problem getting started. Those fabric/speed selector switches are known to go bad and cause more than one motor winding/speed to energize simultaneously but that results in the motor clearly having a problem ... clicking on/off rapidly during agitation and spin. A worn/broken/loose basket drive block or worn/broken ears on the spin tube (which anchor the drive block), causing a loose basket, would result in a noticeable racket during the strong braking that triggers when spin stops, when the basket coasts on the ears contrary to the braking. Presumably that isn't happening. Oil or grease on the clutch causing excess slippage? Shouldn't be anything inside the transmission to cause impaired acceleration, that's all on the clutch band which is outside the transmission. Worn or broken teeth on the spin gear would typically cause it to get stuck and not drive the clutch at all. But oddness can happen. Servicing the transmission isn't hard but it is messy. There are YouTube vids that detail it. A trick is that there's no gasket/seal on the cover, it's effectively glued together (not difficult to get it open), and a "make a gasket" product such as Permatex Ultra Black is used to seal it back (clean off all the old sealant residue). Did you perhaps use the wrong spring on the clutch band when replacing it? Or installed the clutch band turned over the wrong way? Miss a spacer or ring or clip? There is an alternate clutch band that has six pads instead of three for more acceleration torque. P/N WP8299642.